tiny tremoloOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Started by deadastronaut, October 01, 2010, 04:17:05 PM

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Der Groovemeister

#520
Rob,
I tried all your tips: connected pins 4&5, connected the grounds together. I even removed the led resistors, because i got about 1.80 volts at pin 1. Now it doesn't do anything! Dead!
I'm thinking about giving up! Sorry. This thing is not making me happy.
I think i'm gonna build the EA trem!
"What do you mean, dynamics? I'm already playing as loud as i can!"

MetalUpYerEye

You wont regret building the EA trem!

Just make sure you add the switchable 'booster mod' because it acts as a really sweet sounding boost pedal too.  ;D

... Still haven't had time to get my Tiny Trem sorted...  :-[

deadastronaut

#522
@servaas, strange..shame.....ive tried 8 of the same ts555 with no problems...in fact ive just built 4 complete boards ready to go in boxes..and all are tested and fine..so i dont see what the problem can be... :icon_eek:

@hackertronix...as you can see some people have problems with this, i dont know why..so i suggest you breadboard it first ok..(make sure your leads in /out are plugged in)otherwise it wont work ok......its simple enough to do ok..

btw, you must use a cmos 555....yes it is a timer... but not a standard 555 ok........the standard 555 ticks....or gets hot....


i will put up the updated schematic ok, so there is no confusion issues...........

edit: heres the schematic ok ...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/tiny%20trem%202011.pdf
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twabelljr

Quoteis this different than a 555 timer i can pick up at radioshack?

You can get a CMOS555 timer from Rad Shack. :http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062595
They also have the regular 555 of course so make sure you grab the right one.
Shine On !!!

Gurner

Just a couple of comments on the latest schem.

There's no on/off switch - but if you put one binetween the 9V & R5, you could then save an LED & resistor (the on/off led), on account you've a rate led....ie if it's flashing, then your TinyTremelo is on!

There aren't any current limiting resistor between pin 3 & the leds?

That depth pot effectiveness is going to be dependent on the characteristics of the LDR - is there a specific LDR recommended?  

The dark led resistance spec of the LDR is going to be very important here. You may already know, but essentially, whetever resistance it's spec'ed at, is in parallel with your circuit input - if the circuit's input is a guitar then that LDR is in parallel with your guitar vol pot. So if the LDR has a dark resistance of say 340k (eg http://www.maplin.co.uk/searchtemplate.asp?criteria=LDR%2077k-340k)  , then that would take the effective value of a 250k guitar volume knob to just 144k...which will likely start impacting the tone of your guitar.....even with the power removed from the circuit.  Therefore you really want an LDR with a high dark resistance figure.

deadastronaut

#525
Quote from: Gurner on February 15, 2011, 10:06:18 AM
Just a couple of comments on the latest schem.

There's no on/off switch - but if you put one binetween the 9V & R5, you could then save an LED & resistor (the on/off led), on account you've a rate led....ie if it's flashing, then your TinyTremelo is on!

There aren't any current limiting resistor between pin 3 & the leds?

That depth pot effectiveness is going to be dependent on the characteristics of the LDR - is there a specific LDR recommended?  

The dark led resistance spec of the LDR is going to be very important here. You may already know, but essentially, whetever resistance it's spec'ed at, is in parallel with your circuit input - if the circuit's input is a guitar then that LDR is in parallel with your guitar vol pot. So if the LDR has a dark resistance of say 340k (eg http://www.maplin.co.uk/searchtemplate.asp?criteria=LDR%2077k-340k)  , then that would take the effective value of a 250k guitar volume knob to just 144k...which will likely start impacting the tone of your guitar.....even with the power removed from the circuit.  Therefore you really want an LDR with a high dark resistance figure.

hi gurner,.
yeah..on/off is done with dpdt....i also like the speed rate led on all the time as a visual time reference when off/bypassed.

no need for current limiting resistors...works fine. hasnt popped an led so far... :icon_wink:

1m dark resistance ldr is what ive used...if i remember correctly... :-\

i hear no tonal difference on the demo.......checkout the wiring layout..this is how its wired up in the video demo...seems ok to me!..i know what your saying though with the depth etc...

ive tried a few tremolo's and found them to suffer volume drop when clicked on...this doesnt drop at all as its sort of in a state of bypass all the time..sort of :icon_mrgreen:

http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry?feature=mhum#p/u/0/UwvCvSwbXYI



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Der Groovemeister

Quote from: deadastronaut on February 15, 2011, 06:23:30 AM
@servaas, strange..shame.....ive tried 8 of the same ts555 with no problems...in fact ive just built 4 complete boards ready to go in boxes..and all are tested and fine..so i dont see what the problem can be... :icon_eek:
Did you build the vero layout?
"What do you mean, dynamics? I'm already playing as loud as i can!"

deadastronaut

#527
Quote from: Der Groovemeister on February 15, 2011, 04:59:06 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 15, 2011, 06:23:30 AM
@servaas, strange..shame.....ive tried 8 of the same ts555 with no problems...in fact ive just built 4 complete boards ready to go in boxes..and all are tested and fine..so i dont see what the problem can be... :icon_eek:
Did you build the vero layout?

no..i made some pcb's out of the layout above ^^^^....just because i new i was going to be etching anyway so i made a few.. but its the same as the vero (page 26)

i just had to put a snippet of wire to connect pins 4-5 on the ts555 pcb version....... on the newest vero version i have designed this on it and it will be ok...

the cmos 555 i used in the video was an old ic that i couldnt get anymore.... it came from an old bag of bits donated to me
by a friend who's dad sadly passed on....i tried various models of 555 and cmos was the best for no noise etc..but only had 1 of those.....this is why i had to get the newer ts555cn...but they work the same...apart from the 4-5 connection.
which i think is down to being fed lower power...if you dont feed it lower power it will tick....

which vero did you build....?..the original page 1 version does tick..(which i have removed from my gallery)..this new version (page 26) doesnt ...and is fine. (cmos 555 only )...(ts555cn low powered version is what im using)

http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/T/S/5/5/TS555CN.shtml

note:

VERY . LOW POWER CONSUMPTION : .100mA typ at VCC = 5V HIGH MAXIMUM ASTABLE FREQUENCY
.2.7MHz PIN-TO-PIN AND FUNCTIONALLY
.COMPATIBLE WITH BIPOLAR NE555 .VOLTAGE RANGE : +2V to +18V .HIGH OUTPUT CURRENT CAPABILITY SUPPLY CURRENT SPIKES REDUCED
.DURING OUTPUT TRANSITIONS .HIGH INPUT IMPEDANCE : 1012 W OUTPUT COMPATIBLE WITH TTL,CMOS
AND LOGIC MOS
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Der Groovemeister

Hi Rob, I made the last 'white' version before you posted the 'black' one. I made the connection between pin 4 and 5. Can you please post a 'white version' again of the newest vero layout? (Although they look very cool in black!) ;D I always print them out so i can make notes on them and have them on my work table. With all the black that's difficult  (and it uses so much ink). I'm gonna go back to it and fix it! I've never thrown a project aside just because i couldn't get it to work!
"What do you mean, dynamics? I'm already playing as loud as i can!"

deadastronaut

#529
ok 'white vero ' coming up...give me a minute or 2 ok.....remember that jumper under the ic first ok...i always put the paper on my window to look through reversed to see where to cut...i use the tip of a 5mm drill to cut holes..watch for tiny burrs though..the tiniest of burrs will stop it working ok.. :icon_wink: here ya go!.
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hackertronix

Quote from: deadastronaut on February 15, 2011, 06:23:30 AM
@servaas, strange..shame.....ive tried 8 of the same ts555 with no problems...in fact ive just built 4 complete boards ready to go in boxes..and all are tested and fine..so i dont see what the problem can be... :icon_eek:

@hackertronix...as you can see some people have problems with this, i dont know why..so i suggest you breadboard it first ok..(make sure your leads in /out are plugged in)otherwise it wont work ok......its simple enough to do ok..

btw, you must use a cmos 555....yes it is a timer... but not a standard 555 ok........the standard 555 ticks....or gets hot....


i will put up the updated schematic ok, so there is no confusion issues...........

edit: heres the schematic ok ...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/tiny%20trem%202011.pdf

while i admit i have not looked up a datasheet on a 555 cmos, i assume since it is cmos, it is digital?
with a regular 555, could a disk-cap soak up the tick?
what is the actual number on the 555 cmos, so i can look up the datasheet?
are the pins pretty much the same as an analog 555??

Hides-His-Eyes

CMOS isn't always "digital"; google 'CMOS linear mode'

hackertronix

Quote from: Hides-His-Eyes on February 16, 2011, 04:35:10 PM
CMOS isn't always "digital"; google 'CMOS linear mode'

ahhh....will google!  :o

i assume, since cmos as i understand it usually means binary, 1= =v, 0=-v...that they would ALL be digital!

hence my name, i am hacking my way through electronics, picking up nuggets of gold as i stumble along. i really desire to go back to school for this though!

Der Groovemeister

Allright! Got it working again! ;D Weird though: I removed the pin 4&5 connection. It started working again, but with the strange startup method by touching the underside of the board. Then I put test pens on pin 4&5 and it started right away. Resoldered the connection again, and it worked.  ??? Still the slight ticking issue! And it also works with no jacks connected.
Anymore ideas for getting rid of the ticking?
"What do you mean, dynamics? I'm already playing as loud as i can!"

Perrow

Quote from: Der Groovemeister on February 16, 2011, 06:13:20 PM
Allright! Got it working again! ;D Weird though: I removed the pin 4&5 connection. It started working again, but with the strange startup method by touching the underside of the board. Then I put test pens on pin 4&5 and it started right away. Resoldered the connection again, and it worked.  ??? Still the slight ticking issue! And it also works with no jacks connected.
Anymore ideas for getting rid of the ticking?


Have a look at the ideas suggested in this layout (and the discussion leading up to it).
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deadastronaut

@hackertronix...hmmmm you may be correct..

in the datasheet pin 4 goes to voltage...

pin 5 has a 0.01uf cap.....i'll try it soon, ....



bit of a sad day today, my 16 year old cat 'cooney' has to go to the vets...it dont look good for him..poor old guy....gutted... :'(
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mrsuspend

So so sorry Rob... pet him from me...  :icon_cry:

/Magnus

deadastronaut

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Perrow

Quote from: deadastronaut on February 17, 2011, 07:30:46 AM
thanks man.. i will.

16 that's something for a cat, isn't it. I'm more of a canine guy, but yeah, pet him from me to (but use your right hand when petting him for me).
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deadastronaut

cheers guys...

he didnt make it....poor old fella...me and my missus cried like babies when he passed on......very upsetting... :icon_cry:

@perrow, 16 yeah. he had a good innings, we had him from a kitten, he had a great character and will be sorely missed...

we planted a flowering evergreen today in his honour...r.i.p. 'cooney boy'......

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