The Big Bad Stone Thread

[Kill Switch]

My build went well. The only issue I have is at full feedback I get some oscillation noise. If I back off a hair it goes away. I put the LPB-1 on it's own switch and did the manual sweep mod. Had to cut three traces in all to get it all to work. I was thinking of adding another switch that would reconnect the cut trace on the manual sweep so I could use it either as a mx\depth control or manual sweep but there isn't an easy place to hook up at. I might look into that later but for now just enjoying this awesome phaser.

[phector2004]

Hey,

I'm in the process of building this and I've got a few questions:

1. Would Linear taper for all three pots work ok? (E.g. changes not occurring on the last 10% of rotation )
I don't have any rev logs and after waiting 1.5 months for some of my orders to ship, I'm not really willing to place another order (Thanks, Canada Post!)

2. Does the "LFO Depth" control using a non trace-cut board make a noticeable difference? Is it worth adding an SPST reconnecting the cut trace to switch between LFO depth and manual shift?

3. How is the vibrato ("Color") switch meant to be wired? Can anyone confirm my current plan:

Pole 1 --  N/C   SW1A   SW1B
Pole 2 --    I     JACK(I)   I(B)
Pole 3 --   O    JACK(O)  O(B)

I know... it's sideways, but I hope I don't have it backwards!

Thanks!

[n8b]

2. Does the "LFO Depth" control using a non trace-cut board make a noticeable difference? Is it worth adding an SPST reconnecting the cut trace to switch between LFO depth and manual shift?

Yes, it's worth it. I made the cut trace on mine switchable and it is a very effective depth control.

[phector2004]

Thanks! I've got plenty of SPST toggles, so I'll give it a go!

Got that switch all mucked up, though... Effect output should be boosted. I'll probably revise tomorrow 

[LonePhantom]

Hi all, I understand it's a while since anyone posted here. I've finally been able to get to work on my Bad Stone build. This is by far the most complicated build I've done.

I've got everything wired up now. Not using the lpb-1 yet, but it's all in place. Bypass is fine, when the effect is engaged no noise or anything. I've got a feeling I may just have something wired incorrectly, so I thought I'd post a couple of pics up to see if anyone noticed something missing or out of place. If anyone can help me that would be much appreciated.





Thanks again

[Barcode80]

I dunno if you read earlier in the thread, but first place I'd check is the NPN transistor. If you are using a different NPN (like say a 2n5088), the pinout on the silk screen is reversed 180 degrees

[Scruffie]

I dunno if you read earlier in the thread, but first place I'd check is the NPN transistor. If you are using a different NPN (like say a 2n5088), the pinout on the silk screen is reversed 180 degrees

I can't remember who had that issue, but I used a 2N5088 orientated as per the silkscreen and it works fine as have many other people.

I can't see your pictures properly, they're too big!

Can you post your voltages?

[LonePhantom]

I dunno if you read earlier in the thread, but first place I'd check is the NPN transistor. If you are using a different NPN (like say a 2n5088), the pinout on the silk screen is reversed 180 degrees

I did swap the transistor around just in case, but the same result.

Voltages for all ICs? It may be a while before I can do that. I'll post them as soon as I can.

Thanks

[Barcode80]

There has been some confusion over the Transistor Pin out, the Silk Screen applies to the BC239 transistor used in earlier models, not the 2N5088 listed in the parts list, I should have made this clearer so if your build is non-functioning, please check your pinout matches and always read the schematic and check datasheets before building.  

So viewed from the top of the board, with the Flat side facing the Left on the Silk Screen, Top to Bottom is C,B,E.

On another note, sockets are highly suggested for this build, it does not desolder very easily from what some people have been saying and this can be a finnicy build.

This is what I was referring to.

[LonePhantom]

I had a quick check last night, and I'm not sure if I'm doing the measurements right, or if I in fact have a problem with power getting to the circuit. I just want to confirm, give the circuit 9V, don't need a lead in the jacks, set multimeter to volts, negative lead to a ground point on the circuit board, positive touching a pin on the ic. I'm not getting any readings doing this. Is this the right way to measure, and thus meaning my power isn't making it past the indicator LED to the +9V on the PCB?

Thanks again

[asatbluesboy]

Most my projects with antilog pots get log pots wired reverse when testing. You'd be surprised at how many have stayed that way because it ended up making more sense to me after a while.

[LonePhantom]

Can anyone please confirm if I'm measuring voltage correctly, if if so the fact that the ics I've checked so far reading 0V means there's an issue further up the chain?

Thanks!

[Scruffie]

Can anyone please confirm if I'm measuring voltage correctly, if if so the fact that the ics I've checked so far reading 0V means there's an issue further up the chain?

Thanks!

You are doing it right as long as your multimeter is set to the right range (usually 20V) and the ground is connected, you put the black probe to any ground point and then probe with the red pin.

So yes it's possible voltage isn't getting to the circuit, check the DC jack and 9V pad on the pedal. You will need a jack in the socket if you've wired this for a battery.

There has been some confusion over the Transistor Pin out, the Silk Screen applies to the BC239 transistor used in earlier models, not the 2N5088 listed in the parts list, I should have made this clearer so if your build is non-functioning, please check your pinout matches and always read the schematic and check datasheets before building. 

So viewed from the top of the board, with the Flat side facing the Left on the Silk Screen, Top to Bottom is C,B,E.

On another note, sockets are highly suggested for this build, it does not desolder very easily from what some people have been saying and this can be a finnicy build.

This is what I was referring to.

Now I remember, it depends on your brand of 5088, some have the opposite pinout, for mine the silk screen was right.

[LonePhantom]

Thanks, I thought I had it right. Yeah, I thought i'd measured correctly from the jack to the +9V on the board and got nothing. I might need to double check that. The LED powers up, but that's it.

[LonePhantom]

Well, I got the Bad Stone side of things working. It was a problem with the wires on the power jack. Worked fine with a battery. Fixed it all up, and mains power works now too.

Another problem though. I tried hooking up the lpb-1 part, and I've hit the problem others have mentioned. The only thing I could see in this thread was a picture where someone cut traces and rewired a few things. I couldn't quite follow it though. Can someone please provide a bit more info as to what needs to be done to get the LPB-1 part working. The circuit without it is sounding weaker than my dry signal. The phase is awesome though.

Cheers

[phector2004]

+1!

I was scratching my head for a good two hours as to why my build wasn't working... had to completely bypass the LPB-1... I only realized there was a problem with the actual board today!

would've been nice if this problem and it's fix were noted in the build instructions or something 

[Scruffie]

+1!

I was scratching my head for a good two hours as to why my build wasn't working... had to completely bypass the LPB-1... I only realized there was a problem with the actual board today!

would've been nice if this problem and it's fix were noted in the build instructions or something 

Was it not updated? I'll have to message someone and get that sorted.

The point where the 1M, 100k and base meet is connected to the power plane at the 1M's leg. Cut the trace between the 1M and base, and the trace between the 100k and 1M, then add a jumper as shown in the pic.

[phector2004]

Not on the digitaldestruct site...

Thanks for the quick-fix instructions, though

Looks like I've got some modding to do next weekend 

[LonePhantom]

So just to confirm, with the way the board is right now, there's no continuity between the legs of C5 (0.1uf)? I thought my cap was somehow stuffed, and with some difficulty pulled it from the board and replaced, only to find the same problem. Does that sound right (for the problem)?

I'll try and follow those instructions to get the LBP-1 working during the week.

Cheers!

[LonePhantom]

I sorted out the LPB-1 side of things last night, and the effect fired up. It was fairly noisy though, lots of white noise. Would this effect be noisier when not in an enclosure yet? I'm not sure if some of my soldering could be causing it, or if modulation effects really need to be housed to sound ok.

Thanks all, I'm glad to (hopefully) have this all up and running. I've started drilling the enclosure. Drill just ran out of charge, and I seem to have lost an 8mm bit for the pots, so I'll get it boxed up soon.