Superfuzz mods anyone?

[Brainbender]

Hello, everyone!
I recently build the Superfuzz, but its functions are not enough for my needs.
So I realised that would be perfect to make a Superfuzz double volume and double fuzz controls for each tone mode, so when i switch from one to another tone, both would be differently ajusted. Is that possible? If so, can i do that on this layout and how? 
http://ustomp.com/?p=12

Cheers!

[tubelectron]

Hi Brainbender,

This is possible to do that, using a newly-released 4PDT FootSwitch you can find at Banzai or Musikding.

You need a set of 2 "expander" pots, and a set of 2 "volume" pots, to be switched accordingly, acheiving a 2 channel function. Right ?

Looking to the schematic, in order to switch from one pot to another in a set, you need to switch 2 points : the wiper, the upper connection. The ground connection doesn't to be switched, as it is common. So for one set, you need a 2PDT. But as you need to switch the 2 sets accordingly, then you need a 4PDT footswitch, which is now available ! - not in the past...

A+!

[tubelectron]

Hi again Brainbender,

I can't resist to show you the pics of my DIY SuperFuzz :





The tone is footswitchable, and the "more" switch boosts the gain and the fuzz effect.

Good luck for you "DoubleSuperFuzz" !

A+!

[Brainbender]

wow, thanks!  
i'll try it out, but i believe it won't be easy for me, so i believe i'll need more help. if it's not a problem, can you please draw a diagram in MS" Paint" on this?
THANKS!!!!!!!  
I really like your vintage mojo Superfuzz!!

[tubelectron]

Hi Brainbender,

i'll try it out, but i believe it won't be easy for me, so i believe i'll need more help. if it's not a problem, can you please draw a diagram in MS" Paint" on this? 
THANKS!!!!!!! 

Better : Do It Yourself. Use my explanations and your common sense, draw the switching schematic accordingly, post it here, and I will tell you if it's correct.

1st drawing tip : leave 3-4 times more room between the PCB and the pots, and place the 4PDT FSW in-between and draw it 2 times bigger. Drawing clear and short connections will be a lot more easy.

Good "homework" & A+!

[Slade]

You can actually replace the "Tone" switch with a 50kB pot to have a gradual control of the mid scoop. Simply connect the pot like you'd connect the switch, first lug - pin1, second lug - pin2, third lug - pin3. It adds a lot of variants to the pedal

[Brainbender]

Ok, I understand it's beter for me to draw it by myself and you're doing me a real favor...

@Slade: I was thinking about it too, but i was not sure will it work! Thanks!

[Brainbender]

here's what i did. i must admit that i didn't understood you much saying: "...you need to switch 2 points : the wiper, the upper connection. The ground connection doesn't to be switched, as it is common."
actually, i'm not sure where should i wire both pairs of volume and fuzz! I've never worked with a 4PDT switch and whole this thing gets me really confused!
please, help!

[tubelectron]

Hi Brainbender,

You have drawn a mess ! Before you go crazy, here is a correct wiring :



A+!

[Brainbender]

OMG, thank you so much!!!!!
I'll post the photo of the pedal here when i finish it!
Also, thanks for the "wiper" and "top" phrases! I didn't had a clue what that could be!

[Brainbender]

Recently i built the Superfuzz according to Ustomp layout (shown above), but it
seems it's not working as it should.

I checked the pcb for short connections, played with 2N5088, 2N5089 (i also

reversed the sides) and 2SC828 (i also replaced the pinouts etc.) and the

2N3904... Combined the 2n5088 and 2sc828 (Q3 & Q4).
I replaced the diodes' positions, checked offboard wiring, but nothing helped.

When i strum the strings on a guitar the effect shows the signs of life with 2n5088's.
The sound going out of it is like bypassed (clean) sound but with some radio frequency
interference.
Tone switch also work and i can hear the tone difference.

What's happening? 
Any help will be appreciated!

Thanks!

[Mark Hammer]

First step for me is always to clean the flux off the board so I can see whether there are any cracks or bridges.  Flux residue has a way of hiding things.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

First step for me is always to clean the flux off the board so I can see whether there are any cracks or bridges.  Flux residue has a way of hiding things.

What is the best way to clean the flux/rosin residue off the completed board?

[Brainbender]

First step for me is always to clean the flux off the board so I can see whether there are any cracks or bridges.  Flux residue has a way of hiding things.

i did that too, but i'll check again if there's any short lead i've anticipated.

[Mark Hammer]

First step for me is always to clean the flux off the board so I can see whether there are any cracks or bridges.  Flux residue has a way of hiding things.

What is the best way to clean the flux/rosin residue off the completed board?

I just use an old toothbrush and some methyl hydrate, soaking up the stuff from the board with a paper towel.  There may be better or safer ways, but I don't have any problems, and it's cheap and common enough.

[Brainbender]

i solved the problem. to cut a long story short, i've anticipated a polarity on one capacitor!

[tubelectron]

Hi Brainbender,

I would incline to Mark's advice, and even go further :

1 - hidden bad joint solder
2 - hidden track cut (or bridge)
3 - wrong pinout of a transistor (check-check-check on RELIABLE datasheet)
4 - wrong mounting of a transistor (reversed pinout - maybe a consequence of 3 -, or your proper mistake)
5 - problem in offboard wiring : in/out Fx, Fx switching, shifting set of pots...
6 - mistaken PCB or layout : it is not so rare !!!
7 - wrong value, wrong schematic, wrong indications : it is not so rare too !!!
8 - bad transistor (hardly possible as you have tried many of them, of different types).

When finished correctly, the SuperFuzz basically should sound without any issue nor adjustments. Here is the schematic of my DIY model, which worked OK at the last solder joint finished :



A+!