Inkjet waterslide decal questions

Started by Schappy, November 18, 2010, 09:44:40 PM

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Schappy

Ive read through many threads on decals and just have a few quick question.

Do I apply water or clear coat to the enclosure before applying the decal?
After putting on several coats of clear coat is there any sanding involved or do I just leave it be?

Cardboard Tube Samurai

For starters, don't use an inkjet printer for this. I did and it failed miserably as soon as the decal hit water. Best method I've found is to use a laser printer/copier, then clearcoat at least once or twice and allow it to dry. Dampen the surface of the enclosure but don't go leaving big puddles of water on it, just enough that there's a thin film to slide the decal around on for correct positioning. Any excess water (or air bubbles) between the decal and the enclosure can be pushed out the sides with a damp sponge once the decal is positioned correctly. Some people have recommended pricking the decal with a pin to allow this water or air bubbles out but it's not really necessary. Allow it to dry, then clearcoat 2-3 times more, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.

Ice-9

You can use an inkjet, but different inks can run as there water based. You have two options with inkjet.
1st is, like mine the ink seems to be quite resilient to water so I can apply the the water slide decal direct to the painted enclosure then clear coat it.
2nd option for inks that run in water. You need first to spray a clear coat over the decal BEFORE trimming it to size and BEFORE soaking it in water. Just a quick spray of clearcoat is enougth to seal it. Then apply it to the enclosure just as above.

These two methods have worked for me perfectly.
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Cardboard Tube Samurai

Just for the record, when mine failed with inkjet, I had clearcoated

ralley

I use the lazertran inkjet paper (http://www.lazertran.com/products/lazertran_products_inkjet.htm), works fine with cheap home inkjet printers and no need to clearcoat before putting in water - you just let it set for 30 minutes.

Rob.
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ultran8

hobby lobby sells printer friendly sheets of decal paper. make your print. it comes with a special clear coat that seals the ink. than cut out decal. put decal in bowl of water . watch it start to release from backing paper . slide off backing paper on to pedal . use towel to dry off water. than clearcoat to pedal. its just like putin decals on model planes and cars when you were a kid. its was easier than u think .  ill try to post how todo this on my next pedal. and when its done people will ask u where u bought yout pedal. it looks that good

chi_boy

Quote from: Ice-9 on November 19, 2010, 03:39:09 PM
1st is, like mine the ink seems to be quite resilient to water so I can apply the the water slide decal direct to the painted enclosure then clear coat it.

Mike,

What kind of printer do you have?  I'm in the market for a new one and would like one that doesn't run in water.

Thanks,
George
"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

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ItZaLLgOOd

QuoteJust for the record, when mine failed with inkjet, I had clearcoated

What kind of clear coat did you use?  I always use laquer and have never had a problem.  Acrylic or enamel might be a different story.

Print/Clear/Dry/Soak/Apply/Clear/Clear/Clear
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ultran8

it depends on what base u started with . dont mix acrliyc and laquer . im gona try using nason base coat/clear coat when i paint another car. and yes after u print it out my testors kit came with a sealer clear mid coat so the ink wont bleed . heres a pic of my truck


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