F***ing GeorgeL Connectors

[Philippe]

Against better my judgement, I decided to utilize a couple of solderless GeorgeL connectors that I had lying about. As it turned out, I probably should have left them right where they were resting & picked up a soldering iron instead. Kind of ironic that a 2 minute operation could result in over 45 minutes of re-checking & rework prior to giving-up on the idea all together.

While some folks endorse these convenient connectors, all they seem to amount or lead to is an intermittant connection somewhere later down the road...even if the relatively simple instructions are followed to a tee.

The cable was cut clean & straight, pushed completely into the connector & the set screw tightened snugly. Result(s): despite passing a continuity test with the DVM, the cable only worked in one direction & one connector had to be turned a certain way (in this case with the set screw facing upwards) to even function at all! Fortunately, this 'cable project was a non-critical one...just a simple patch cord for an A/B box silent tuning function/option.

What's with these overhyped, overpriced & essentially unreliable connectors? About the only possible problematic cable factor I can think of might be that I was using Canare GS-6 which has a small layer of secondary insulation that has to be removed when soldering into a conventional connector...this removal is of course impossible when using a GeorgeL.

[ayayay!]

While I

-have no allegiance to George Ls,
-however, use them exclusively on my board
-have found using a different cutter than they recommend provides better results, meaning from the past...
-I feel your pain.

...All that said, I think you should have used the proper cable with its intended connector.  Just sayin'.

I also sent them back like 2 dozen brass connectors a year or so ago and they replaced every one of them happily. 

I now use the "banana" cutter that comes with (wait for it...) the Planet Waves pedal kit!  Since I started using that cutter instead of my ultra nice $20 side cutters, I haven't had a single problem.  I like them a lot for their ease of use making quick cables and I've not had a problem in a long time, but I don't blame a single soul out there if they don't like them. 

[R.G.]

While some folks endorse these convenient connectors, all they seem to amount or lead to is an intermittant connection somewhere later down the road...even if the relatively simple instructions are followed to a tee.
...
What's with these overhyped, overpriced & essentially unreliable connectors? About the only possible problematic cable factor I can think of might be that I was using Canare GS-6 which has a small layer of secondary insulation that has to be removed when soldering into a conventional connector...this removal is of course impossible when using a GeorgeL.

If you talk to the George L's people, they would tell you flat out that you will get bad results doing what you were trying. They don't sell connectors, they sell matching cable/wire and connectors specific to that cable. The cable and connectors are intended to be used as a set. The connectors are precision machined to fit the cable, and vice versa.

I have personally made up several pedalboards other than my own from George L's, involving perhaps a dozen patch cables each. I've never had a bad or intermittent connection using a fresh connector and the right cable. I have had to repair these cables when they got stepped on or otherwise abused. The repair consisted of: unscrew, clean cut, reinsert, screw down. I had no failures on repairs. Repairs took about 15 seconds.

So - what's with these connectors? Nothing. They are to be used with the matching cable, which is designed for the connector. It is possible to use a straight blade screwdriver on Phillips cross-slot screws, too, but the results will be frustrating and poor.

From the technical side, George L's cable is flexible, low noise, and low capacitance. It's not the only good cable out there; Canare is also good. But you have to use the right connectors for the cable, and vice versa.

[Philippe]

...All that said, I think you should have used the proper cable with its intended connector.  Just sayin'.

If you talk to the George L's people, they would tell you flat out that you will get bad results doing what you were trying. They don't sell connectors, they sell matching cable/wire and connectors specific to that cable. The cable and connectors are intended to be used as a set. The connectors are precision machined to fit the cable, and vice versa.

In retrospect & hindsight being 20/20 99% of the time, I suspect that cable/connector incompatibility was most likely the culprit...just happened that I didn't have any GeorgeL cable lying about as I ordinarily do not use their products. That said, except for the unusual, secondary conductor insulation on the GS-6 (which might have led to this directional continuity anomaly), it's kind of difficult to picture (or imagine) what makes the GeorgeL cable so critical to proper GeorgeL cable/connector compatibility...other than as RG stated, it is all part of a system where a mix & match approach will often offer less than satisfactory results.

[Ice-9]

After seeing this thread i have had a look at the Georgel website as this idea interested me, it may be a great system but what a horrible website to look through. (no disrespect intended) so i have dismissed the idea but as i was wanting to make some guitar leads up and this discussion mentioned good quality cable, can i ask what cable is available in 100m reels suitable for soldered joints that is top quality cable . Also I usually use neutric jacks.

[G. Hoffman]

After seeing this thread i have had a look at the Georgel website as this idea interested me, it may be a great system but what a horrible website to look through. (no disrespect intended) so i have dismissed the idea but as i was wanting to make some guitar leads up and this discussion mentioned good quality cable, can i ask what cable is available in 100m reels suitable for soldered joints that is top quality cable . Also I usually use neutric jacks.

Canare, Mogami, Belden.  Mogami 2524 and 2319 are both good guitar cable.  The 2319 is a smaller diameter, which can be nice for pedal boards and racks and such.  I'm not sure about the model numbers for Belden and Canare, but I'm sure someone will be able to chime in.  For 1/4" connectors, I think Switchcraft are more reliable than Neutrik, but they both make a fine product.  Never buy anything from Monster cable, as they have the most offensive business practices on the planet, with the possible exception of Enron.


Gabriel

[ayayay!]

FWIW, I've had the best luck with the cutter that came with this PW kit: