The best way to clear over a powdercoated enclosure???

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Just looking for inputs on proven ways to clear coat a powdercoated enclosure. Enamel.... Acrylic.... Lacquer.... Poly.....??

[John Lyons]

Powder coat is hard and will not adhere well to any spray enamel etc.
If you can buff the powder coat with steel wool lightly, enough to dull it
the clear will stick a lot better. Make sure to clean the box will before
clear coating. Lacquer is what I use.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Powder coat is hard and will not adhere well to any spray enamel etc.
If you can buff the powder coat with steel wool lightly, enough to dull it
the clear will stick a lot better. Make sure to clean the box will before
clear coating. Lacquer is what I use.

Thanks John! 

You mention that I should buff the powdercoat to "dull" the surface. I am wondering.... will the scratches/buffing be obvious THROUGH the clear coat lacquer? Once the steel wool touches the powdercoat it is too late. Will the clear lacquer "cover up" the scuff marks created by the steel wool? Finally, does the powdercoat still have a good shine after buffing and applying the lacquer or does it dull a bit?

Thanks alot! 

[edvard]

Try it on the bottom plate of your enclosure.
Nobody's going to look there first anyways if they're inspecticating your handiwork, and if you cover it with a foam or rubber backing for grip afterwards, all the better.
Otherwise, you might find a scrap of something you know is powder coated with a similar finish and practice with that.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Try it on the bottom plate of your enclosure.
Nobody's going to look there first anyways if they're inspecticating your handiwork, and if you cover it with a foam or rubber backing for grip afterwards, all the better.
Otherwise, you might find a scrap of something you know is powder coated with a similar finish and practice with that.

Thanks edvard. I know this can be done however... I know that SOMEONE on this forum has cleared over a powder coated enclosure so I am seeking that wisdom before I attempt it. That is the purpose of this forum right?? To share knowledge, assist with problems, and bask in the occasional picture of building glory! 

[jkokura]

I use a clear polyurethane that's designed not to yellow. I use it because I put decals on, or sometimes use rubber stamping with stazon, and the clear will bake on nicely.

Jacob

[John Lyons]

Lacquer is harder so that's why I use it, plus it dries fast. Granted it's smelly...
Use Fine steel wool #0000. You will not be able to see scratches. Use a circular motion.
If you are buffing a solid color you definitely will not see the scratches. If you are using
a metallic powder coating you may need to test it on an inconspicuous place (recommended
either way. ) Metallic coatings are layered so if you buff them you cut through a layer of reflective
caoting and it will be very noticably darker...
Just buff it out enough to dull the shine. The reason this works it that paint
sticks better to a dull surface. The paint/laquer/varnish etc fills in the crevices of the dull
surface and has more bite or "surface area" to hold onto. Kind of like hoe your finger will
not slide over sandpaper as easily as glass.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Thanks for the great tips John! I am building a BSIAB2 into a 125B that is powdercoated... Brown of course 

[Ronsonic]

Over in the cycling world, a lot of guys recommend the Krylon "for plastics" series of spray paints for going over powder coat. Getting anything from an aerosol to adhere to most plastics is a bit of a trick and that's what you're dealing with in a powder coat.