Can't get a bypass signal through my pedal. I just don't understand.

[elenore19]

It's a rebote delay, but I have no issues with the board (yet..). The thing is I just can't get a bypassed signal to save my life. Also the LED isn't working at all...but that's another issue I'll deal with later. Since this is just for bypass questioning, I'm not going to go about the debugging process for the whole board yet, seeing as it shouldn't even be an issue right now with getting a bypass signal.

I used this wiring setup.
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/

I feel like the issue is with grounding and me using insulated jacks. I always confuse myself I believe on what is tip/ring/sleeve on these jacks. But I'm 95% sure I have it correct. I have checked continuity with my multimeter, and when in bypass mode I have continuity from tip to tip, which doesn't make sense to me why I don't then get a signal.

This is my first pedal with an attempt at using a battery clip, would this make issues with signal? I haven't tried it with a battery hooked up, just the 9v wall power. But the battery clip is still installed.

Here are a couple pictures taken with my computer (so they're pretty shitty...sorry...and they're 'backwards')
Guts:



A up close (blurry) picture of the switch;

An outside picture, just for shits and giggles.



Any help is Really greatly appreciated. I have exhausted all my ideas for fixing this guy.

Thanks in advance!

-Elliot

[twabelljr]

Continuity tip to tip = good. Make sure you do not have continuity tip to sleeve. That would short your signal.  Then check to see if you have continuity from both cable sleeves to board ground and/or enclosure.

[elenore19]

Continuity tip to tip = good. Make sure you do not have continuity tip to sleeve. That would short your signal.  Then check to see if you have continuity from both cable sleeves to board ground and/or enclosure.

Thanks.
Checked both, and everything is good. Should I check with cables plugged in? I just checked continuity with the jacks. and everything is as it should be.

[cpm]

that jack with the tree metal stripes...
look carefully, when the plug is inserted is pushes the metal lids up, breaking the connection to the other row of pins. This is a normally-closed switching jack, on the 3 circuits: tip, ring and sleeve.

my guess is that you just need to solder your wires to the other row of pins.

[twabelljr]

I checked with cables plugged in just for reference. Maybe you should do the same. What cpm is suggesting would be revealed with the cables plugged in.

[phector2004]

that jack with the tree metal stripes...
look carefully, when the plug is inserted is pushes the metal lids up, breaking the connection to the other row of pins. This is a normally-closed switching jack, on the 3 circuits: tip, ring and sleeve.

my guess is that you just need to solder your wires to the other row of pins.

+1

Looks like you've got the wires soldered into the "flat" side

The side with the kink is the one that sticks to the plug (the kink acts as a spring)

[elenore19]

Awesome!! Thanks guys! I just wired the lugs to the other side and boom, working. Perfect. All that isn't working is the light now...Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help! Greatly appreciated.

-Elliot

[twabelljr]

All that isn't working is the light now

The LED? With the cables plugged in and the effect switched on, make sure you have 9V at your led, check to see that the cathode is grounded through the limiting resistor. Check the obvious: make sure you have it in the right way. Easy to overlook sometimes. Maybe the LED is bad, check with with your meter on diode test. Good luck!