Solder: rosin core, multicore ?

LucifersTrip · February 16, 2011, 09:34:37 PM

After 40 or 50 projects, I'm finally nearing the end of my 1lb roll of Ersin Multicore Solder. It's exactly the same packaging as this, but 18 s.w.g., .048ins, 1.2mm

Ersin is the brand, but is "Multicore" also part of the brand name or is multicore a type of solder (multiple cores instead of one?) I don't believe Ersin is around anymore. I just found a company called Multicore

Can someone recommend a similar solder and let me know if there is indeed a difference between rosin/flux core and multicore.

I tried a rosin core solder from a friend recently and the properties were totally different than the Ersin I've been using. The brownish rosin/flux core ran out, pooling around the joint. It also stank to high heaven. Neither is the case with the Ersin Multicore.

I think I have about 1 or 2 projects worth of solder remaining.

thanx

blooze_man · February 16, 2011, 09:52:16 PM

Multicore means there's multiple cores of flux. Multicore is also a brand that I think used to be Ersin.

defaced · February 16, 2011, 10:05:33 PM

Not to point out the obvious, but the text around the ring gives the location of manufacture and the text "Multicore Solders LTD". Usually that means that is the company name. Does that line up with what you've found in your searches?

From what I'm finding, Henkel owns Multicore now, but I can't find that product in their lineup.

PRR · February 16, 2011, 11:03:20 PM

"Multicore" was a trademark for multiple fluxes.

I have only ever seen it from one company--- I don't think it had any practical advantage, it was a gimmick like Stripe/Signal toothpaste.

Ersin was one of the better brands, but there were many, and the whole Lead business has changed. Try to find any good-brand flux-core -electronic- solder. Don't fret the trademarks or who owns the brands now.

Or go with a supplier you can trust. Small Bear has pounds and fingers of 60:40 and 63:37, and won't sell you wrong.

Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead .040" diameter, 1 lb. PRICE: $20.95
Solder 63/37 Tin/Lead .040" diameter, 1 lb. PRICE: $22.95
Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead .040" diameter, 10 ft. PRICE: $1.75
Solder 63/37 Tin/Lead .040" diameter, 10 ft. PRICE: $1.95
http://www.smallbearelec.com/StoreFront.bok

chi_boy · February 17, 2011, 12:09:11 AM

Quote from: PRR on February 16, 2011, 11:03:20 PM

Or go with a supplier you can trust. Small Bear has pounds and fingers of 60:40 and 63:37, and won't sell you wrong.

ANy idea why one would choose 63:37 or 60:40? Is there a real difference between them?

trjones1 · February 17, 2011, 12:24:02 AM

The one thing I like Radio Shack for is solder. 1/2lb of .032" (my preferred size) for about $8. And no waiting for shipping either.

PRR · February 17, 2011, 12:35:40 AM

> Is there a real difference between them?

Yes.

Blow $4 to get a little of each. See which suits your style.

Yes, Radio Shack solder is usually perfectly good. I have other brands, some very vintage, but have always used RS and never had a problem except low-stock.

Taylor · February 17, 2011, 04:01:49 AM

Quote from: chi_boy on February 17, 2011, 12:09:11 AM

ANy idea why one would choose 63:37 or 60:40? Is there a real difference between them?

I agree with Paul's advice, but just to answer your question, 63/37 is a "eutectic" solder. A eutectic material is one that goes from solid to liquid at a single temperature. 60/40 has a range of temperatures in which it's not fully solid or liquid, so you can potentially get bad joints if a part moves in between you removing the iron from the joint and the solder solidifying completely.

LucifersTrip · February 18, 2011, 12:03:44 AM

Quote from: defaced on February 16, 2011, 10:05:33 PM
Not to point out the obvious, but the text around the ring gives the location of manufacture and the text "Multicore Solders LTD". Usually that means that is the company name. Does that line up with what you've found in your searches?

From what I'm finding, Henkel owns Multicore now, but I can't find that product in their lineup.

Yes, it was the henkel site I visited...with Multicore as a brand, not a type...
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_us/hs.xsl/brands-1556.htm?iname=Multicore%C2%AE&countryCode=us&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=0000000GFR&redDotUID=0000000GFR&brand=000000038D

LucifersTrip · February 18, 2011, 12:10:36 AM

Thanx much for all the replies & info...

I guess I have just one more simple question. Is there some standard indicator or code in the serial number or product code of modern solder products that tells you if it's "electronic" solder? [ie, How can I tell if it's "electronic" solder if it's not written in the description by the merchant?]

btw, here's a pic from wikipedia showing the multicore solder which has 5 cores

PRR · February 19, 2011, 12:49:12 AM

> tells you if it's "electronic" solder?

It's normally pretty obvious. Electronic solder is with the resistors and cables. Plumbing solder is with the water pipes and valves. Roofing solder is over with the roofing materials. Jewelry and stain-glass solders are with bits of pretty-stuff or caming.

If you find solder between soda and shirts, the store is odd-lots and you don't really know WHAT it is. So don't buy it there.

"Rosin flux" is a sign. In hand-soldering, nothing has really replaced rosin (in automated soldering other materials are found, but you buy that stuff 100 pounds at a time). However you can use weak (or no) rosin on lead caming, there may be highly-jazzed rosin for some handicraft, you MUST have the slightly-jazzed rosin (activated to bite better, but not so jazzed that it will rot thin wires).

Plumbers solder is NOT! good for electronics. In the old days it was 40:60 (low Tin) and high melting point, moreover it used ACID flux core which works great today and a year later the wires are eaten-off. (I have known places where possession of acid-core got you fired.) (Pipes are much bigger/thicker than our wires, so the eat-away is insignificant.) Lately plumbers switched to no-Lead, but not the same no-Lead used in electronics production, and who knows what they use for flux.

Get your solder from an ELECTRONICS store. DigiKey, Mouser, Newark et al have good stuff, but in such a variety that we can't really know what's hand-solder, what's SMT solder, what will get by national inspectors. Radio Shack is good but often out of stock of a reasonable pack of nice thin stuff. SmallBear has fine stuff, the price seems OK (it must go up and down with global markets, even if he chooses to round-up rather than re-price morning and evening), and I think he can ship almost anywhere (although your customs-man may know what it is and demand a tax).

davent · February 19, 2011, 11:53:38 AM

Just to further this abit, i've seen Kester 245 highly recommended. It's offered in multiple gauges as well as varying levels of flux, 1.1%, 2.2%, 3.3%, do we need concern ourselves with this or is there a distinct advantage of any one over the others (outside of cost)? (My spool of Multicore is running down and i'm shopping as well.)

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=kester+245

thanks
dave

defaced · February 19, 2011, 02:39:40 PM

I didn't even know there were different levels of rosin in solder until your post. It makes sense, but I've never thought about it. I use Kester 245, and am really pleased with it. Apparently I'm using the 2.2% flux stuff, part number 24-6337-8801.

darron · February 19, 2011, 09:11:19 PM

I recommend a lead-free solder. You'll get nicer joints!

Set your iron to just below 400 though...

Taylor · February 19, 2011, 09:23:54 PM

Really? I've never used lead-free solder, but I've always heard the joints are worse, not better, than tin/lead solders.

darron · February 19, 2011, 09:26:44 PM

Quote from: Taylor on February 19, 2011, 09:23:54 PM
Really? I've never used lead-free solder, but I've always heard the joints are worse, not better, than tin/lead solders.

I like the look of a bright shiny solid joint that looks like chrome rather than a brittle dull looking lead one.

I suppose it's harder to work with but the results are better. When you are 40 projects+ as mentioned then it won't be noticably harder though...

Taylor · February 19, 2011, 09:36:53 PM

Indeed, everybody prefers shiny to dull.

Upon this basic fact depend the economies of many countries.

My skepticism is not whether shiny is good, it's to do with many articles and anecdotes saying that lead-free joints tend to be duller than leaded ones. I've never heard anyone else say to the contrary, so I'm just surprised. Perhaps I'll try some out.

darron · February 19, 2011, 09:41:12 PM

Somebody sent me back a pedal the other day that didn't survive an AC supply. I opened it and was ashamed of the lead soldering I did and was tempted to suck and remake every joint. My skills were equal and I used the same bench iron.

The solder that I am using from Altronics says "the best solder" or something like that so I can't argue with it haha

familyortiz · February 20, 2011, 02:08:26 AM

we've transitioned to lead free completely and although you need a higher solder temp, one thing I like about the joints... they are very strong compared to lead based.
One note of safety of course! I hope you guys are starting to wear latex or similar gloves when using lead based anything, from soldering to reloading. I know it might seem overkill but that sh_it is toxic.

calpolyengineer · February 20, 2011, 04:55:27 AM

Lead-free solder does not produce a stronger joint. The joint is in fact more brittle, harder to bond, and requires higher solder temperature. There is a reason the EU ban doesn't include aerospace applications, cause lead-free is not as reliable. For our uses, there probably isn't a significant difference.

As for toxicity, I wouldn't eat the stuff, but I have seen studies recently that lead isn't as dangerous as once thought. I used to play with it as a kid and I still have all 11 fingers.

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Solder: rosin core, multicore ?