possible dumb questions

Started by Blatant, March 20, 2011, 06:07:02 AM

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Blatant

Hey guys, I've decided to undertake a new project after 2 successful builds so far,  I don't know much about electronics at all, and the previous builds were from kits.
I am looking for specific capacitors on mouser.  For a stompbox what sort of voltage and tolerance do I want?
Basically I'm trying to make a dr boogie and am struggling to find all the parts I need at the correct values.

I have searched the forum, so I'm sorry if this has been brought up before..

darron

It's not a dumb question... I remember the confusion in picking out what caps I thought would be right when the build isn't specific. Also, different sites used different values (uF, nF, pF)


Tolerance isn't always so important. It might just change the frequencies and tones by the slightest bit here and there, but it should always be around to what you are after. A lot of the old vintage pedals had +/- 20% components!


Voltage isn't very important for stomp boxes either. The voltage rating on a capacitor means just how much voltage it can hold without shorting out internally. Most pedals are powered by 9V, so anything over 9V is okay. For good measure when you buy electrolytic caps for power supply filtering etc. try to double the voltage you need, to at least 18V. So you might end up with a 50V rated electrolytic for example. The only real thing is the higher the voltage rating the unnecessarily bigger the components get, and proportionately costlier.


I suppose the easiest thumb would be to use MKT caps where possible, ceramic caps for the small pF values where MKT is not available, and electrolytic or low ESR electrolytic caps for larger values such as 10uF+



I've actually written up something on my site here which relates to tolerance, capacitors etc.:


http://www.dazatronyx.com/support/quality/
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

Blatant

thanks for the info!
Is something like 100v-400v too high though?

darron

as high as you want... some of the ceramic caps go up to the 3KV range... just means they are bigger usually... a lot of the caps you'd normally use in the audio section can be around 100V
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

tubelectron

400V is not too high, but may be too big for the space you have in your stompbox... The higher the voltage, the higher the size, usually.
I apologize for my approximative english writing and understanding !
http://guilhemamplification.jimdofree.com/

Blatant

cheers guys. one other question.
if a schematic asks for say a 30uF capacitor, and I can only find 33uF is that okay, or am I better off adding 2 caps to make up the 30? (dont know how they stack at this stage)

darron

Any position that calls for a 30uF I can imagine a 33 being just as perfect. I know 30uF will be such a bug value it's nothing to do with tone shaping.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

Blatant

awesome now to finalise my order.
I have to get all this from the states, and $40 shipping I don't want to have to repeat because I got the incorrect value

I'll probably make a build log thread too at some stage.

tubelectron

Depending of your location, you can also buy from Germany (banzaieffects, musikding) if you are in Europe or close to...
I apologize for my approximative english writing and understanding !
http://guilhemamplification.jimdofree.com/

LucifersTrip

Quote from: Blatant on March 20, 2011, 07:24:37 AM
awesome now to finalise my order.
I have to get all this from the states, and $40 shipping I don't want to have to repeat because I got the incorrect value

I'll probably make a build log thread too at some stage.

If your buying light components like caps & resistors, Tayda is one of the best & the shipping is low.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/StoreFront

I usually get my orders within 10-14 days.

Regarding worry about having slightly different values. In the end, it's only your ear that counts. You'll probably be experimenting
by subbing different caps & resistors anyway, so you may not wind up with what the schematic called for when you're finished...
always think outside the box

jasperoosthoek

Quote from: Blatant on March 20, 2011, 07:24:37 AM
awesome now to finalise my order.
I have to get all this from the states, and $40 shipping I don't want to have to repeat because I got the incorrect value

I'll probably make a build log thread too at some stage.

I don't know where you live but if it's in the EU then Mouser is great. I ordered from them last year and got a nice surprise. Turned out they have a distribution center in Germany. My order arrived in less that three working days ;D.
[DIYStompbox user name]@hotmail.com

phector2004

Quote from: Blatant on March 20, 2011, 07:24:37 AM
awesome now to finalise my order.
I have to get all this from the states, and $40 shipping I don't want to have to repeat because I got the incorrect value

I'll probably make a build log thread too at some stage.

40$ shipping for one build?!?!

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: Blatant on March 20, 2011, 07:16:06 AM
cheers guys. one other question.
if a schematic asks for say a 30uF capacitor, and I can only find 33uF is that okay, or am I better off adding 2 caps to make up the 30? (dont know how they stack at this stage)

Usually, if you follow the +/- 10% rule you will be fine.

30uF = anywhere from 27 - 33uF. So a 33uF is OK

50uF = anywhere from 45 - 55uF. So a 47uF is OK


Good Luck  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Blatant

I'm in Australia. We have local suppliers but they suck and don't stock much to begin with, let alone quality brands and unusual values.  We also get ripped off alot with pricing here, and its probably cheaper ordering from mouser even with postage!
I agree it's steep considering the components are small enogh for a $2 envelope.

I'll check out those other sites for parts.
thanks again for the replies

darron

#14
Quote from: Blatant on March 20, 2011, 06:18:27 PM
I'm in Australia. We have local suppliers but they suck and don't stock much to begin with, let alone quality brands and unusual values.  We also get ripped off alot with pricing here, and its probably cheaper ordering from mouser even with postage!
I agree it's steep considering the components are small enogh for a $2 envelope.

I'll check out those other sites for parts.
thanks again for the replies


What are you talking about? Go to Altronics :D


If you have an ABN I highly recommend you make a trade account there to save heaps of cash. You'll always get the lowest bulk price that way.

They take their job more seriously than Jaycar and stock a lot, higher quality by far, and cheaper.


Failing that you can always make a free order through RS components, but difficult to search and prices are average.

Altronics is awesome pedal friendly :)


If you have an ABN I highly recommend making a trade account. That way you'll always get the cheapest bulk price and save heaps of cash. A pedal should only cost about $40 from beginning to end if you are smart about it.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

darron

Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

jasperoosthoek

40$, does that include import tax?
[DIYStompbox user name]@hotmail.com

darron

Quote from: jasperoosthoek on March 20, 2011, 06:23:49 PM
40$, does that include import tax?


We don't have import tax for personal stuff or posted stuff... Sucks to be from Canada, Brazil though apparently.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

LucifersTrip

Quote

What are you talking about? Go to Altronics

If you have an ABN I highly recommend you make a trade account there to save heaps of cash. You'll always get the lowest bulk price that way.

If you have an ABN I highly recommend making a trade account. That way you'll always get the cheapest bulk price and save heaps of cash. A pedal should only cost about $40 from beginning to end if you are smart about it.

Is it really possible to beat 1 cent [.01] caps & resistors?
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-Capacitors-cln-Ceramic-Disc-Capacitors/Categories
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-Resistors-cln-1-fdsh-4W-Carbon-Film-Resistors/Categories
always think outside the box

darron

#19
Sorry fr writing the same thing twice. Posting from my phone and thought I didn't include it.



The Tayda looks like caps are ten cents. I pay 2 cents for my resistors so maybe I'm getting ripped off but I pay 7 cents for ceramics.

I usually don't like ceramics though and buy the metal films.

My main point was that you can just walk into the shop and buy what you need rather than waiting for something from overseas and hoping you go everything in the order.

Edit: I don't use the carbon resistors either, so maybe I'm not getting ripped off after all.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!