SHO Vero Layout match to schematic

[compute88]

So just move this zener from gate to source instead of gate to ground on this layout and I should be gravy?

I cleaned things up a bit. The zener is going from gate to ground now and I took out D1 and D2. In theory, everything should work. No?

[StereoKills]

I think so.

Also, if one were to use the old version with diodes running from Gate to V+ and Gnd, they would not be a zener, but a switching diode, 1N4148 was used. The schematic in the OP seems to be an amalgamation of both the early version and the current version oddly enough.

[Renegadrian]

There's also this layout, but I guess...too many diodes!!! zener is in the right spot, just get rid of the 4148 couple

[compute88]

Renegadrian, one of your layouts (top on) has it going from gate to ground.   

[Renegadrian]

You're right my friend, I fell in the same error myself...quick fix!!!

[compute88]

Hmmm switched the zener position, still not working.... Traced output of the board to jack output, and input jack to input board, so its not the switch wiring.    This may sound dumb, but the 1,2,3 on the pots is when you view them from the back or the front?  I always thought it was the back on layouts.   Tried a new BS170 no luck.  It's def the board, and I've quad checked everything.

Are you sure the wiring is correct for a C5k  rev audio pot? 

[StereoKills]

Wiring would not change for a different taper pot. Looking at it from the front with the pins on the bottom, 1-2-3 in order.


Time to follow the debug instructions!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

[compute88]

Ok debug it is... I was just curious, if the standard for layouts is to have the pot facing up, or down       ... I was assuming down, just tried it up, no workey as well.  lol....

[Renegadrian]

either position you wire the pot, you should get some sound somehow...try to disconnect it and wire a 2.2k res. at its place.
I bet one beer it won't work!!!   (guess the problem is somewhere else...)

[compute88]

sweeet, got it working!  I accidentally switched R2 and R3  10M on the 9+  oops   
There's a monster freekin' ground humm  when the switch is engaged for the effect, clean in bypass...  I'm wondering if the switching layout I'm using (true bypass with input grounding) is causin' problems.

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_dcjack.gif?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

all grounds are going to the board like the link, no battery stuff tho, just  9v DC

[compute88]

crap in the home stretch now!  Sorry this is my first DIY pedal.  I've done DIY rack gear with success before, but this one seems to be givin' me hell!

Ok its working on the battery, but hums like a mofo on the wall wart.  I know its a clean one, since my other pedals power up fine and clean on it.

1st off... I'm using metal switchcraft DC jacks,  I realize NOW that I'm grounding 9v from the sleeve to the chassis (ground)  oops. i took it out of the case for now to prevent that, and have to get some plastic ones.  
STILL hums on the wall wart...  Made a 9v Bat to 2.1mm jack adapter, and plug that in, and it sounds great on the battery clean as a whistle.  
Wall wart is tip (inside) Neg, sleeve is pos.  putting out 10v dc on the wall wart (even though it says 9)

I'm failing where to see the ground is getting compromised from the wall wart.

using a 9.1v zener... maybe the 10v is messing that up, should step up to a 12v zener?

[DavenPaget]

crap in the home stretch now!  Sorry this is my first DIY pedal.  I've done DIY rack gear with success before, but this one seems to be givin' me hell!

Ok its working on the battery, but hums like a mofo on the wall wart.  I know its a clean one, since my other pedals power up fine and clean on it.

1st off... I'm using metal switchcraft DC jacks,  I realize NOW that I'm grounding 9v from the sleeve to the chassis (ground)  oops. i took it out of the case for now to prevent that, and have to get some plastic ones.  
STILL hums on the wall wart...  Made a 9v Bat to 2.1mm jack adapter, and plug that in, and it sounds great on the battery clean as a whistle.  
Wall wart is tip (inside) Neg, sleeve is pos.  putting out 10v dc on the wall wart (even though it says 9)

I'm failing where to see the ground is getting compromised from the wall wart.

using a 9.1v zener... maybe the 10v is messing that up, should step up to a 12v zener?

Go for a 100uf-220uf filter cap on the supply input . 9v to ground .

[StereoKills]

Go for a 100uf-220uf filter cap on the supply input . 9v to ground .

Agreed. Most commercial pedals already include power filtering, probably why you don't hear it.

[compute88]

Yeah actually the SHO schematic I found on zvex site has a u47 cap across the 9v to ground. (after a 100 ohm resistor)  strangely has the zener going to ground as well.  I suppose either will work.

http://www.zvex.com/module_instructions.pdf

[DavenPaget]

Yeah actually the SHO schematic I found on zvex site has a u47 cap across the 9v to ground. (after a 100 ohm resistor)  strangely has the zener going to ground as well.  I suppose either will work.

http://www.zvex.com/module_instructions.pdf

A zener going to ground is not the right schem ...
And , go for at least 100uf . Who knows if your power supply is too noisy ? But your other pedals have sufficient filtering ?

[compute88]

Man, this one is killin me...  plastic power jack..  100uf 25v across 9v and ground (pos on 9v) neg on ground.   Re-heated all contacts to triple check good solder joints.

fine on 9v bat, horrible on wall wart.    other stomps are fine

[DavenPaget]

Man, this one is killin me...  plastic power jack..  100uf 25v across 9v and ground (pos on 9v) neg on ground.   Re-heated all contacts to triple check good solder joints.

fine on 9v bat, horrible on wall wart.    other stomps are fine

220uf ?

[StereoKills]

A zener (or many other types of diode) with cathode to V+ and anode to ground is for reverse polarity protection.

[StereoKills]

Try using the 100uF in parallel with a 47nF. The 47nF should take care of higher frequencies that the 100uF will not.

[Barcode80]

Try using the 100uF in parallel with a 47nF. The 47nF should take care of higher frequencies that the 100uF will not.

Caps in parallel just make one cap with a larger value. So you are essentially making a 147uF cap by doing this. It will not benefit different frequency filtering in the power line.