someone upped this on "another" forum...worth a look!!!!!

[pinkjimiphoton]

wellp, we're gonna need someone to help make  workable circuit boards, and start tracking down parts. i am such a newb i can't even believe i'm involved in this, but am learning at an alarming rate. all i can really do is post pics, take voltages etc, and be a guinea pig for part subs. just stay with us as this unfurls!!

[Keppy]

Anyone check the resistor lead spacing yet? How about overall board dimensions?

Jimi, if the bulbs are in series, the voltage should drop at each one, similar to connecting resistors in series. If you're dividing a 17v drop between four bulbs I think you'll be okay. If you're still worried, test them all together at a lower voltage first and I expect you'll find them pretty dim.

[digi2t]

Hi guys,

Finally got the video done. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6hfEsfgOTA

Pardon the lousy quality, but it pretty well sums up the general operation.

Keppy, what do you need for info. Just name it, I'm leaving the whole unbuttoned for the time being for easy access.

[pinkjimiphoton]

thanks keppy, yah, i think it's gonna be fine once i wire it up. i will get you board dimensions after supper, and resistor lead spacing. thanks for the advice!!

dino....can't wait to see the demo!!

[Keppy]

Thanks for the video Dino!

[Jazznoise]

Hi guys,

Finally got the video done. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6hfEsfgOTA

Pardon the lousy quality, but it pretty well sums up the general operation.

Keppy, what do you need for info. Just name it, I'm leaving the whole unbuttoned for the time being for easy access.

I'd love to hear that thing through a Mic'd amp, but a fuzzy picture is better than no picture at all!

Some of the controls, such as the speed control for the lfo, seem to have a pretty low range. If the idea of a clone goes ahead I'd definitely recommend either a bigger resistor value or maybe a switch that adds a high value resistor. Just an idea for those of us who enjoy overmodulating a filter (I bought a Monotron just for it!). Especialy one so curious as the one in this beasht...

[pinkjimiphoton]

nice demo dino...mine does not do the ticking with the fuzz repeat, and mine the light was on on the bypass when the effect is on! wack...they both sound quite a bit different. i'll up a demo soon...yours sounds more like i remember this one sounding a long time ago...

well done bro!!

[pinkjimiphoton]

it lives!! success!!!



thanks to dino for the pictures, awesome, one more thing done....it uses 5 volt grain of wheat lamps, for sure. one more piece of the puzzle...
tomorrow i'm gonna take the top panel off and try and see if i can fix the lamp on the fuzz/voice fuzz switch.

then a lot of cleaning etc...thanks dino and rg and keppy and everyone!!

[pinkjimiphoton]

part number ml-683 t-1 standard wire terminal 5.0 volts .060 amps "aircraft lamps" by gc electronics .  $2.59 for a pair.

[digi2t]

The lamps in the control panel are not the same. They're small, but with screw bases. A real pain to change as well. The lamp holder kind of slips down so you can get a grip on the bulb (yeah.... right!), and makes room for the bulb to come out.

As for the Bypass, I can understand the reasoning. Everything that is on, well, is on. If you're "on" bypass... you can guess the rest. Counter-intuitive by todays standards, but more mojo  .

Jimi, I think you have my footswitch caps dude! I'm missing 3 of the 4. Seriously, I know a machinist, he'll whip me up 3 copies.

[pinkjimiphoton]

dino, i think we can buy them footswitch caps from mouser, allied electronics, a few places...i've seen 'em...i'm gonna surf around and try to find them again. they mount on with an allen screw...they use 'em on kill switches in industrial machines i think...electronic goldmine, allelectronics corp may have them, too. we'll find 'em!!! i can find the little screw in lamps, they had an assortment of them at cables and connectors...just gotta see what the voltage is like. are they all daisy chained like below the footpedals?

the phattest drag is gonna be i'll have to fabricate the bottom panel beneath the footswitch assembly..no WAY in hell i'm gonna find one of them!!

i think you're gonna be surprised how different mine sounds from yours..mine may need to have the trimpots played with some, yours sounds much more like the original way i remember it sounding. mine is a bit darker, but it may be cuz i'm trying it with headphones and a boss gt5...haven't had a chance to plug it in an actual amp yet.

i was gonna measure the board, resistor spacing etc...but i can't find my tape measure, which is crazy cuz i just used it yesterday to install an air conditioner. yikes!!

could ya do me another favor dino please? could you measure the bottom panel for me so i can get a piece of sheet metal cut to size? it may be easier to measure the piece than the cavity...thanks bro, an especially thanks for the pics...they let me get it re-connected.

[Keppy]

New layouts, based on the trace side photos posted above. There weren't many changes to make, mostly just ground points that I thought were separately connected to the chassis that turned out to be connected on the boards. The trimpots in the original units are odd, in some cases having four legs. Those I left as I had them, since any clones will use modern trimpots anyway.

[digi2t]

Excellent work Kep. Maybe set the spacing for the trimmers to accomodate upright multi-turns (Bournes). They're a fav of mine. Is there any way we can combine the boards, and reduce the size of this whole deal? I'd like to see this in something slightly larger than a Morley sized pedal, if possible 

Jimi, get you the panel dimensions tonight.

Cheers,
Dino

[pinkjimiphoton]

awesome, simply awesome kep...the weird looking trimmer with the 4 legs is just a variable resistor, if ya mean the one in the center of the large board. it's stamped CTS, and only two of the legs appear to be electronic connections, the other two look like they're just for mounting it to the board...this is the only trimmer that lies horizontal to the board, the rest are vertical.

dino...thanks bro!!!

this thing is gonna live again!!

[digi2t]

Hey jimi,

I was perusing the diagram, and those little lamps are fed by a step down resistor on the main board. It's a 3.9 ohm resistor. I can't remember the resistor number, but if you look at the diagram, it's a little side circuit that corresponds to the wire numbers that feed the lamps.

The cover panel dimensions are a trapezoid; 10 1/2" top, 11 1/2" bottom, and 11 11/16" sides. I'll get the hole placements to you tonight. On the esthetic side, I think MacTac has peel and stick "wood-look" adhesive sheet, that you can get on a roll. That would really complete the look. Glue a photo copy of the diagram inside, and your GTG.

Later,
Dino

[pinkjimiphoton]

awesome, dino...thanks again!!

gonna check a local sheet metal guy when i get out later, see how much to cut me a piece. without the bottom, it picks up a LOT of noise and hum!!

[R.G.]

Given that there are now two units in captivity, can one of you measure the physical size, length x width, of the PCBs?

That answers Keppy's question of resistor lead spacing and scaling.

For extra credit, measure the distance the typical resistor lead holes are apart.

The fall plate board layout layout I did measures 4.2" by 3.6".

[pinkjimiphoton]

hi R.G., i don't have the unit apart on the top piece, but here's the size of the bottom board, and resistor spacing:

height: 6 and 3/16ths inches

width: 5 inches

resistor spacing, hole to hole:  3/4ths on the 1/2 watt resistors, 7/8ths on the 1 watt resistors.

1/2 inch on the vertical trimmers.

some of the resistors are cc, some metal. most of the non-electrolytics are "tropical fish" types.

this is the bottom board only...maybe dino can get the top dimensions, and verify my measurements.

hope this helps!!!

[digi2t]

hi R.G., i don't have the unit apart on the top piece, but here's the size of the bottom board, and resistor spacing:

height: 6 and 3/16ths inches

width: 5 inches

resistor spacing, hole to hole:  3/4ths on the 1/2 watt resistors, 7/8ths on the 1 watt resistors.

1/2 inch on the vertical trimmers.

some of the resistors are cc, some metal. most of the non-electrolytics are "tropical fish" types.

this is the bottom board only...maybe dino can get the top dimensions, and verify my measurements.

hope this helps!!!

Will post the top board dimensions tonight.

[R.G.]

height: 6 and 3/16ths inches
width: 5 inches

OK. That will let Keppy scale his PCB to proper size.

resistor spacing, hole to hole:  3/4ths on the 1/2 watt resistors, 7/8ths on the 1 watt resistors.
some of the resistors are cc, some metal. most of the non-electrolytics are "tropical fish" types.

I had almost forgoten they spaced them so loosely back then.  I used 0.4" resistor spacing, 1/4W resistors for the most part, as well as radial and box-style caps. It cut the PCB size in half.