Magazine paper transfers

[GodSaveMetal]

Govmnt_Lacky  - The one time I experimented with magazine paper, I was left with paper residue stuck to the traces also. I just left it there and went ahead and etched it without any problems.

Yes it's OK the residues that stuck to the traces not matter!!! but you have to remove whit a stick the paper residues between the tracers!!! the magazine paper I use is for any magazine whit brillants ones you may use the finest you found!!! I make it also with the paper of the offer In the MALL!! or the McDonald; o other sources; tried it!!

[tuckster]

And remember: don't iron too long or else the toner does not stay where it should it kind of melts away. At least the toner that I use does it.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Thanks for all of the advice and info 

I think that I did a few things wrong.

1) Ironed TOO long.
2) Used an older peice of FR4 copper clad.
3) Didnt let it soak long enough after transfer.

I think I am going to try again. Ill post with results.

[Brymus]

For medium (TS BMP) PCBs I iron on high for 60-100 seconds  (counting 1-1000,ect)
Paying extra attention to the edges and corners.
I let it soak in room temp water for anywhere from 5-30 minutes,
Whenever you can rub your thumb on the paper and it rolls off leaving the toner is long enough
If you dont let it soak enough you can rub off the toner.
If you let the board dry the traces will still seem a little furry from the paper,but as long as the majority is gone its OK .
Sometimes I will stick them down by coloring them with a sharpie.

I have had bad luck with colored areas or areas with really dark text.(sometimes it works others not so well)
Each magazine brand is different,If usng areas with text ,the thinner paper seems to work better.
I use the empty areas of the paper (I cut them out and tape them to a regular paper just like PNP blue).

[kupervaser]

Make sure to clean the enclosure or pcb with acetone before transfer. usually 3-5 minutes of ironing will do the job. What I usually do is directly after ironing i put it under very cold water to stress it. After that just pull the paper off the pcb or enclosure really slow and carefully. Not one time I had problems. I use brother laser printer and Canon glossy paper. not sure what type exactly. But I remember using different paper in the past with very bad to no results at all.  So choose p[aper carefully.

[deadastronaut]

print using 'dark' setting to get a good toner image....

buff/scratch the surface so it has good 'key ' for the toner to grip too..

keep all 'stages' clean...grease free...even your fingers!...

[jdub]

I have had bad luck with colored areas or areas with really dark text

I've found this too- I wonder if it has something to do with the laser toner sticking more firmly to the magazine print in these areas after heating...better to use a page with mostly just text.

+1 to what deadastronaut said.  Prep of the copper clad & keeping it clean is really important, and I found that after buffing it thoroughly with steel wool, hitting it with a somewhere around a 400-600 grit piece of sandpaper really helps by giving "texture" for the toner to bond to.  It seems to work less well if the copper is too smooth.  After that it's important to thoroughly clean (i just use dish soap with a scrubbie), rinse and dry to get any steel wool fibers, sandpaper grit, etc. off.  I also found that pre-heating the copper a little by laying the iron on it for a few seconds before positioning the transfer helped a bit.

+1 also to the advice about a sheet of clean paper between the iron and the transfer.  I usually use the "wool" setting on my iron (no steam, of course).  The first few attempts I did were ruined by keeping the iron on too long- the traces smeared and were unusable.  I usually don't move the iron around, either- first, I bring it straight down on the PCB, covering it (as flat as possible so as to contact the entire board), and apply some pressure for about 15-20 seconds.  Then I focus especially on all four edges, again keeping the iron as flat as possible, for 10-15 seconds each.  Then I might repeat the first step again.  For soaking, I use warm water with a touch of dish soap in it in a bowl, letting the board lie flat, paper side up.  This seems to let water get under the transfer better, for some reason (could just be imaginary on my part  ) I let it soak for 20 minutes or a half hour, then roll the paper slowly and gently off.  If the transfer seems OK, I'll run it under water & rub more vigorously with my thumb to remove as much paper fuzz as possible.  I often lose part of a trace or something, but those are easily corrected with either a sharpie or, better, a paint pen.

Anyway, hope this helps.

[ACS]

I've gotta say, I was a complete magazine paper convert until recently. I then tried inkjet (yes inkjet, not laser) photo paper for the first time, and wow, what a difference. Pops right off the copper clad, leaving the toner behind perfectly, with absolutely no need to soak, rub or otherwise. I'll personally never be going back to the magazine paper again, unless I'm really stuck...

Just my 2c...

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I've gotta say, I was a complete magazine paper convert until recently. I then tried inkjet (yes inkjet, not laser) photo paper for the first time, and wow, what a difference. Pops right off the copper clad, leaving the toner behind perfectly, with absolutely no need to soak, rub or otherwise. I'll personally never be going back to the magazine paper again, unless I'm really stuck...

Just my 2c...

See.... this is how I feel with PnP Blue! 

I just did three transfers with PnP today and all of them transferred without a hitch! One small, one medium, and one large transfer. All went very smooth with little or no touch-up needed. The paper just peels right off of the copper clad leaving behind a beautiful resist.

Now, online the PnP blue is $33 for 20 sheets. I only need about 10 or so for now but I am wondering if I should invest in some Inkjet photo paper after reading this post.

How much does it run price wise? How many sheets? Where to buy? What brand works best?

[deadastronaut]

dont waste ya money dude!....mags ok...

the problem with any inkjet and laser paper is that they vary in results by manufacturer...ive had good and bad results with both...

but different brands....

like ACS said, i did get hold of some inkjet glossy and it peeled straight off , no soaking etc....but that was bought from a 'pound' shop..

and they change the supplier all the time...so i guess if you do find some that works ok buy lots...

or save money and use an old mag...

[ACS]

the problem with any inkjet and laser paper is that they vary in results by manufacturer...ive had good and bad results with both

^^^ This.

From what I've read here and elsewhere it really does seem to be luck of the draw - the brand I got was an 'own brand' 220gsm inkjet photo paper. The brand will be no good to ya, as I'm in Australia! Cheap though - 50 sheets of A5 (and I certainly don't need anything larger, even for a BB etch) for <$10.

Here's my theory (based on my readings of other's successes and failures:
1. Inkjet over laser paper every time - seems that the inkjet paper has some kind of coating that definitely makes a difference.
2. Thicker is better - aim for >200gsm ifyou can get it.
3. Glossy photo paper, rather than 'top of the range glossy' if that makes sense - if you have to choose between 'thicker' or 'photo', choose photo.
4. The 'own brand' versions do seem to be more suitable to our needs for some reason...

It truly was a revelation to me just how good this was, and how easy. The ease with which it popped off the blank had to be seen to be believed...

[Brymus]

I have often wondered about this.
I was told that the inkjet photo paper will melt to your drum or something in the printer and ruin it.
But I was told the clay from the magazine paper would mess it up also and so far mine works great.
We should compile a list of known printers that toner transfer well.
Mine is a Samsung ML2525 bought on sale for about 50$ a year ago,no hiccups,and it has printed ALOT in the last year.

[deadastronaut]

samsung ml1660..with genuine samsung cartridge....perfect results!...

[defaced]

Well, I can say with confidence that a Brother HL-2040 and the paper from Architectural Digest don't play well together.  I'm going to try the printer at work next since there seems to be alot of negative stuff about brother printers (I've gotten it to work with Staples photo basic paper in the past), but in the mean time, what magazines are people using for paper?

[deadastronaut]

slimming world.....ironically....

[alparent]

samsung ml1660..with genuine samsung cartridge....perfect results!...

I have a Samsung ML-2010 and it worked perfectly when I used the original toner cartridge.
The reason the Samsung work so good for transfer is the the fuser is crappy. It barely heats the toner enough to get it to stick to the paper.

Try to print something on thick paper and them rub it off.......you'll see what I mean.

But for transfer on inkjet paper it works to our advantage.

Just my 2 cents 

[Boobslappy]

Ok so I tried some magazine paper from a medical journal (thin and somewhat glossy) and it worked great!  Here is my process:

-Print transfer on an almost completely blank (ie white) piece of magazine paper using a Brother HL-2240 lazer printer (very cheap)
-Lightly sand single sided copper board and clean with water and soap
-Dry thoroughly and pre heat for 30s with Iron set on "cotton" using a single piece of blank regular paper between iron and board
-place transfer on hot board with single sheet of blank paper on top and press firmly with iron for 60s
-heat for an additional 60s but "wiggle" iron back and forth
-Place board and transfer in cold soapy water-Peel magazine paper from board and gently rub off remaining paper with finger
-Dry and remove any paper fibers with blunt screw driver (it will look fuzzy but that is ok)
-Now mix some muriatic acid with peroxide in a 1:2 ratio (so 1/4 muriatic to 1/2 cup peroxide)
-Place board in mixture and gently agitate for 5-10 min until etching complete
-Rinse with cold water and remove toner with a scour pad and acetone (dont go crazy)
-At this point you can apply the first 6 steps for a silkscreen layer on top
-Drill your holes

This worked MUCH BETTER than using inkjet photo paper. Here are some pics
After removing paper and drying. Note the fuzzy paper stuck to the toner (not a problem)


Boards done etching and toner removed


Top "Silkscreen"

[deadastronaut]

cool..looks good..

i use an old toothbrush under running water to get rid of fibres!..

[iandy4]

I just want to say how much I appreciate this thread! I'm about to order some supplies for my first try and it's reassuring to see the Pn'P isn't the only option.

[Boobslappy]

cool..looks good..

i use an old toothbrush under running water to get rid of fibres!..

Good idea