EM3207 (v1.1) - MN3207 based EHX Electric Mistress (9V) clone

[njkmonty]

ho ho ho
i read somewhere in here someone using a bass wanted more headroom, would that be a reason to lean to the mn3007,
and please no jokes about head, getting a room  and mistresses!


you answered just while i was posting!

[njkmonty]

then from what i can see its only one more jumper, and  3 resistors and a zener difference.
i might socket the components and  try both . (would have to connect the jumper though under the board for the mn3207/mn3007 change

also the "colour" pot, is that just another name for "enhance " pot?  like of the ada? gives that metallic sound?
obviously never owned an elect mistr!

[oldschoolanalog]

ho ho ho...
...and please no jokes about head, getting a room  and mistresses!

Okay, no Ho jokes either...
Yes, color=enhance.

[Thomeeque]

then from what i can see its only one more jumper, and  3 resistors and a zener difference.
i might socket the components and  try both . (would have to connect the jumper though under the board for the mn3207/mn3007 change

Yep. I'd say that EM3007 v1.1 PCB is easier adaptable for eventual use of MN3207 then the other way around.

[mr_deadmaxxx]

i had read almost everything under this thread and i have some questions..

1.) if i were to build this one, (after reading everything from pages 2 to 9) is it still safe to
build the one posted on the very first page? (the one in pdf)

2.) which would be better to build? EM3007 or EM3207?

3.) am i right in saying that EM3207 is only for 9V operation? and EM3007 for 15V? can't they both work at 9V?

anyways, im just a little confused which of them (EM3207 or EM3007) is much better to build compared to the other.

thanks..and nice flange.. +1

[njkmonty]

from my understanding there will be little difference, (little more headroom , who knows!)
mn3007 requires 15v dc power supply, so a bit more hassle if you only have a 9v supply
im pretty sure the pdf (9v mn3207)at beginning is still good to go, , it can with a little tinkering be adjusted back to suit mn3007
although as i think Thomeeque was saying was that it would be an easier conversion to do his earlier layout (which i think is bigger too, if wanting to be easilier going back and forth.) but from memory the pdf is a nicer compactier layout.?
is what im saying right,...Thomeeque
i think what the conclusion is ....
just build the pdf version,  K>I>S>S !

can both work from 9v??

well technically yes... but with more adjustments,mn3007  would need a surge pump  like off moosapotumus  ada flanger lt054 i think?
look at this link

http://moosapotamus.net/IDEAS/ADAflanger/ADA_MN3007/FlangerClone_SCH_rev5_MN3007_jan2010.gif

right in the middle the circuit where it has got 9v coming in and 18v coming out heading towards 15v regulator, but also too ,like mine you loose a little in forward voltage etc from diodes and stuff, again i think! which means by the time it gets to the regulator your hoping you have 9v coming into the surge pump and getting as close to 18v as you can for the regulator!,

again more thinks to add!

[oldschoolanalog]

The MN3007 works just fine @ 9V.

[njkmonty]

where did i read that it reads 15v?
bugger me!

i do believe your right, but ive got a copy of a panasonic 1024 stage low noise bbd, and it says
supply voltage -15  units v
then whats that all about ,
for some reason i thought  the 3000 series was for 15v and 3200 was for 9v
oh well, dont i look a noob!

[Fender3D]

MN3007 will work @ 9V.
But to achieve the same delay range you must have somewhat more than 10V to drive VCO properly.

[sugonidamaso]

Hello,
I already build 3207 (salvaged from the very big electric mistress pcb). My question is that why the flanging seems fast?(like siren of an ambulance). I changed the 2n5057(which is not available in my area) tranny to a 3906(twisted other way around).Also with 2n4250. Should the 5057 be? In the earlier post Thomas said it will change the frequency and sweep. In addition, when I rotated the 1M pot maximum it squeals! And the 10k color pot also won't work. Thank you very much!

[njkmonty]

my ada diy flanger  has only sounded like an ambulance when the guitar signal ground wasn't connected to the power supply ground, (as mine is not in an enclosure as yet.) but you seem to have other troubles aswell?

[sugonidamaso]

Yes. Even connected to my guitar. I'm clueless

[sugonidamaso]

Here's some of the pictures. Hope will help. Thanks!I have no available on hand regarding R5=4.7k
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/IMG_6349.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/IMG_6350.jpg

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Here's some of the pictures. Hope will help. Thanks!I have no available on hand regarding R5=4.7k
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/IMG_6349.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/IMG_6350.jpg

On initial inspection, and looking at your picture of the copper trace side of the board. I see two things:

1) This DEFINITELY needs a look over for solder bridges. Be sure to look for those and eliminate any.

2) Looking at the wide copper trace in the middle of the board (in the picture) if you follow it down towards the point where it looks like some of the trace did not transfer well. Check there to make sure you do not have a micro-break in the trace. It looks like there could be a tiny break in the trace there.

Goos Luck 

[sugonidamaso]

Will try to look again Sir! Thank you!

[sugonidamaso]

Hello again,
As per Govmnt_Lacky advise, I already looked regarding solder bridges and all. The transfer did well as per continuity test. And still having the same problem.

[mr_deadmaxxx]

you made the 3207 right?

i still wonder why others chose the 3007..
maybe it's better than the 3207?

[sugonidamaso]

Yes the 3207. I have no idea sir regarding that matter. Will consider that option though.

[mr_deadmaxxx]

for how much did you purchase your MN3207?

[sugonidamaso]

It's about less than a dollar here in my area. About a quarter I think.