Colorsound Vocalizer vero

[digi2t]

Maybe this will help bro,

http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/Huminator/index.htm

[pinkjimiphoton]

thanks bro, i'll look at it!

edit....
sweet!! looks like i can build it right into the bobtavia, i'll try it bro, thanks!!

[pinkjimiphoton]

ok...it's in process...but...

houston, we have a problem....or three.

there's 20 rows x 21 spaces, not 21 rows by 20 spaces. typos happen.

it may be these damn dodgy eyes of mine, but there's a couple spots on the vero that seem a little awkward, or plain don't work...or i'm missing something.

do c9 and 10 and c 11 and 12 mount connected to each other in the middle, or are they supposed to share the holes on row  17, holes 15 and 16, respectively?

sorry bro, i can't tell from the vero...just a little too fuzzy for me. and not alot of room to mount the caps  i got, so i gotta either order some others or hit the part store.

also, i'm having the same probs with the diodes, d2, d3 and d4....

i sincerely hope the stripe is the gray part of the diodes on the layout, or things may be messy!!

do d2 and d3 connect, or do they share hole 15 of row 3?

also, does d3 mount in hole 15 of row 5?

d4 should be rows 6 and 8 holes 15, correct?

sorry for the confusion, bro, i just can't see it well enough to tell..

other than those couple problems, it's coming along nicely, most of the board is populated now.

when ya get a chance, holla back, dino!

peace1

[digi2t]

Hola miho,

there's 20 rows x 21 spaces, not 21 rows by 20 spaces. typos happen.

Hmmm... I've written 20R (rows) x 21H (holes... ummm.... spaces?) on the vero layout  Now, I'm confused. Are we looking at the same vero? I did delete the first version, only the most recent should appear on page 1 of this thread.

Yes, the caps and diodes stated do share holes. The reason I did this was to save space (and jumpers), since 2 ceramic cap, or diode, leads are thin enough to share the same hole (at least on my veroboards). R19, and R21 also share a hole. D2, D3, and D4 all connect between them, in the same holes, next to the cuts. The grey bands are the stripes, they come out grey looking in version 3. Again, the leads on a 1N4148 is pretty thin, so stuffing 2 leads into one hole should be OK. Connects the ends, saves jumpers, and secures the component to the board. If it's too tight to lay them flat, then stand them up a bit.

I had to try and keep everything tight here, since a Crybaby shell isn't that wide.

[pinkjimiphoton]

hey bro,

i'm up...was on this thing til 2:30 am..lol..

yah, it's 21 horizontal, 20 vertical on the board in the layout...21 strips, 20 holes...

it all fits.

i've got most of the board populated at this point,  i used all film caps and pretty much metal 1% resistors in here...newbe, cost me more..oops.

so...the 680 and 100nf caps at  c9/10 and c11/12 just plain won't fit.

i don't wanna add another order to mouser today, so gonna hit cables and connectors and get the proper size caps so they'll fit.

i never stuffed two things in a hole in vero before..learn something new every day. i actually connected r19 and r21 ABOVE the board..with the resistors i used, no way to stuff both thru the hole!!

but anyways, now i'm just a couple parts away from finishing the population...then it's on to the mechanics of putting it all in the crybaby. 

will check in later...so far, this too, is looking like it'll live as soon as eyegor hooks up the juice.

[digi2t]

i actually connected r19 and r21 ABOVE the board

That can work as well, as long as the 2 resistors are connected, and also connect to the vero rail to C15 as well. Twist and solder the lead of one onto the other high and tight, clip the excess, and pull the lead of the other into the hole. 6 of one, half dozen of the other  . That could work with the caps as well I guess. Again, sheer genius bro! I hadn't thought of that one 

i never stuffed two things in a hole in vero before

.... thank God you added the word "vero" in that sentence  . I just figured, as long as 2 components were connecting onto the same rail, if I could save using a hole on a rail of the board, I would try.

I've done it, but on already built boards, as modifications. This is the first time I intentionally drew up a vero with shared holes. Just trying to keep everything tinny-winny.

P.S. I forgot to mention it in my PM, I get my veroboard from here; http://stores.ebay.ca/pixel-print-ltd/Veroboard-Stripboard-/_i.html?_fsub=2135144018&_sid=737387708&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 . I use the epoxyfiber veroboard. Very good quality, and CHEAP!!! 5000 holes (10" x 5") for around 6 bux 

[pinkjimiphoton]

thanks bro for the links.

i got everything on there except c9&10 and c 11&12...had to sub 5n caps for the 4.7, but that should be close enough...made a 27k out of a 3 and a 24 k i had lieing around, pretty much everything else is 1% components.

let's hope the SCHEMATIC is right!! lol!!! or all will be for naught, other than the learning experience, eh?



i tagged some pics on the book of the board to ya...so you can see.

gotta jet for now, and get parts after taking my bro down to get his motorvehicle liscence.

more later!!

[digi2t]

Hmmm, I see why you're havin' a PITA with the caps. I've never used those types of box caps in my projects, always the ceramic discs. They're cheap, compact, and cheap. Did I mention that they're cheap? And compact? Those box caps are just not flexble enough to design them into my veros.

Besides, smaller board = MORE POTS!! (MORE KNOBS)
Case in point, silicon Skyripper;

Notice how small the ceramics are, compared to that !!HUGE!! 100pF silver mica (between the 2 trannies).

Truth be told, I've done the A-B thing with different caps, but my hearing just isn't fine enough to tell the difference between a ceramic, mylar, silver mica, what have you. If I'm fixing something, I'll try to stay true to what was there, but I always use ceramics for my builds. They've never failed me. Even in the Axis Face, where they specifically ask for a silver mica cap for the tranny, I ordered one, and did the A-B with a ceramic, and I thought the silver mica was a waste of money. Just my 2 bits.

1/4W metal film resistors, and ceramic caps, always works, everytime.

[pinkjimiphoton]

hey dino, where the holes are marked for mounting this, do they need to be isolated from ground, or should they ground there? sorry for the confusion...don't wanna blow this thing up.

[digi2t]

No grounding on the mounting holes, they should absolutely be isolated. I always clean the 3x3 area of all copper, leaving the mounting hole in the middle lots of room for the stand-off. Even if I'm using plastic stand-off's (I also use aluminum from time to time), I always clean off the 3x3 corner. Just good safe practice, to prevent any FUBAR's from happening.

Your UNO chip is in the mail. Just posted it. Hollar when you get it.

[pinkjimiphoton]

awesome bro, thanks so much.

NEXT dumb question..

does this need a bipolar 9  v supply (n which case, i have an extra charge pump, thank god) or where it says 9v- is that the 9volt battery's minus?

soon as i hear what's what, it's on to the final stages of the build..

sorry for all the dumb questions, but when i say i'm a newb,, i mean it.

[pinkjimiphoton]

almost there, dino...just a few more things, hope to have it running tonite!! 

[digi2t]

Hey bro,

Lookin' good! Don't need bipolar, just regular 9 volt. The neg is on one side of the board, and pos is on the other. Either battery, or PS.

The pot doesn't look too bad either, probably do the job. At the very worse, dab some 5 minute epoxy in there to lock it in. If it doesn't work out, give me a hollar, and I'll ship you one of the 22K's I've got. They already have the flat machined on the shaft, so the gear should just slip on.

[pinkjimiphoton]

so far, so good...the pot fits great, took just a couple seconds with the dremel... i'm wiring the board now so i can mount it, all the pots etc are in the crybaby shell now, let's hope it works when i put the chips and tranny in!!

[digi2t]

Man, I'm standing by, with bated breath.

I miss my shop! 

[pinkjimiphoton]

all that's left is the power wiring and installing the tranny and chips.

one stupid question tho, where the hell is ground, the 9v-, right? i feel so stupid, lol...but my brain is shutting down i think...lol

[digi2t]

"9v-" = 9 volts negative, aka "ground", or "earth" in Britain.
"9v+" = 9 volts positive, aka "power", "hot", "live", "juice", etc.

[pinkjimiphoton]

i know bro, was just goofin on ya...   

sorry, i'm a douche!



just connected the last wire...

time to plug in the chips and tranny...

pray, bro...i am.

be right back!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[digi2t]

OMFG!!

You got me, hook, line, and sinker 

I seriously thought that you were losing it there. Good one. Got me man! 

[pinkjimiphoton]

f^<#.

no dice, bro.

it passes signal, but that's about it. the fuzz is ALMOST there..barely. no formants. sounds like a wah stuck in the heel position. it's not doing squat.

could be because i had to sub an nte996 for the ca3080e. beats me.

i have a feeling the schematic is no good. bummer. was really hoping this thing was gonna rock!!

not giving up yet, but have a feeling we're gonna be shat outta luck.

somewhere, something has gotta be wrong...i pulled the transistor, made no difference. even reversed it.

i have a feeling there's a bug somewhere in the schematic unfortunately.

time to start debugging.

this sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!