Question about Relays (and Tayda)

[Joe Hart]

I want to switch a motor for a rotating speaker assembly and know a little about relays. Anyway, does anyone know for certain that one of these would work?

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-Electromechanical-cln-Relays/Categories

It seems that the only difference is the DC voltage needed to make they switch?? I have a 12V adapter, so I'm thinking of that one, but does it really matter as long as I have the correct voltage to make the switch?

Also, does anyone have any comments about Tayda? They seem quite inexpensive, but maybe there are problems that I don't know about... yet?

Thanks!
-Joe Hart

[PRR]

Read the datasheet. (It would help if they didn't cram it into the tiny window; direct link is www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/A-5012.pdf )

A relay is a switch and an electromagnet to flip it.

The switch part (contact) may be teeny for telephone or huge for a car starter. The switch part usually determines relay size and cost. Be sure this one will carry your load.

The electromagnet (coil) must be sized to flip the switch, but the Volts and Amps may be traded-off over a wide range by changing the number of turns and wire-size. 1 turn might need 0.1V at 1A. 10,000 turns might be 10V at 0.01A. It is customary to offer the same basic chassis with a choice of several voltages.

> I have a 12V adapter

If the relay driver has low loss (BJT or manual switch), then just use 12V relay. If you use a vacuum-tube to drive the relay (this was done in old tube radio and TV tuners) the design becomes more difficult.

> a motor for a rotating speaker

Do you know how many volts and amps it needs? AC or DC? (Note that switching heavy DC can be MUCH harder on the switch, because it never stops; this relay has only 30V rating for DC loads.)

> does anyone have any comments about Tayda?

Use the ; many mentions of Tayda.

[Joe Hart]

Read the datasheet. (It would help if they didn't cram it into the tiny window; direct link is www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/A-5012.pdf )

The switch part (contact) may be teeny for telephone or huge for a car starter. The switch part usually determines relay size and cost. Be sure this one will carry your load.

Do you know how many volts and amps it needs? AC or DC? (Note that switching heavy DC can be MUCH harder on the switch, because it never stops; this relay has only 30V rating for DC loads.)

Okay, here's where it starts to get a bit over my head. From the datasheet it looks like the relay can handle 12A at 120V. I'm quite certain that the motor runs on AC. I believe the motor runs at 120V and I imagine that it wouldn't need more than a few amps (it's fairly small -- power drill sized). But now I'm wondering. I would feel more comfortable if I knew for certain. I'll have to see if I can figure it out. I got the Leslie assembly out of an old organ, so maybe there's some info I can find.

So, if the motor does use, say, 120V and 8A, then this relay would be fine?
-Joe Hart

[Joe Hart]

If the relay driver has low loss (BJT or manual switch), then just use 12V relay. If you use a vacuum-tube to drive the relay (this was done in old tube radio and TV tuners) the design becomes more difficult.

I was thinking of using a stomp switch to remotely connect 12V to the relay (via a simple 1/4" guitar cable), because I know that I want to keep all of the "possibly murderous" electricity in one place and not strung out through cords all over the floor. Would this work? Of course, before I did anything I was going to research and then double check my information, but at this point, I thought all that was needed was a little shot of 12V DC to the relay and it switched the 120V from one to the other (the motor is actually two in one and they share one contact). Is this not the case?
-Joe Hart

[Joe Hart]

Use the ; many mentions of Tayda.

I did and saw that there were questions about some of their products (a delay chip, I believe), but also read that people keep ordering from them (at least in the past), so I just thought I would check for any current opinions.

And thank you for all the help so far, PRR!
-Joe Hart

[cpm]

If the relay driver has low loss (BJT or manual switch), then just use 12V relay. If you use a vacuum-tube to drive the relay (this was done in old tube radio and TV tuners) the design becomes more difficult.

I was thinking of using a stomp switch to remotely connect 12V to the relay (via a simple 1/4" guitar cable), because I know that I want to keep all of the "possibly murderous" electricity in one place and not strung out through cords all over the floor. Would this work? Of course, before I did anything I was going to research and then double check my information, but at this point, I thought all that was needed was a little shot of 12V DC to the relay and it switched the 120V from one to the other (the motor is actually two in one and they share one contact). Is this not the case?
-Joe Hart

id use a passive remote swith, that connects control line with ground. On the relay side, this would trigger a transistor to drive the relay