super hard on schematic on diy layout creator

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

100uF 10V Electrolytic 10Pack
Item Number EC100U10

10V (it is the voltage rating of the cap, "how much volts it can take") will might go wrong from a 9V supply, try 16V or 25V 100uf electrolites.

10uF 100V Electrolytic 10Pack
Item Number EC10U100

100V is unnecessary (the cap will be too big) go for 16V or 25V 10uf caps.

100k Log Potentiometer 24mm
Item Number VR043  

24mm can be too big but it doesnt matter in your box, but the "standard" stompbox pot size is alpha 16mm.

[deadastronaut]

dont get a metal dc socket....couldnt see order number...

if you get a dpdt switch you wont have the led on/off......get a 3pdt..

[kenyanscott]

i changed the resistors as suggested,

but or love nor money i cant see any 3pdt switches on that website, or certainly not any that are foot switches?

i can see a flick switch, but It needs to be footswitch

[Vince_b]

Also, single core wire might be good for your breadboard but for building effects it is better to use stranded wire. After a couple of bends, the single core wire will break.

[deadastronaut]

nope bitsbox dont actually sell 3pdt's....shame..

ebay or hotrox.co.uk/dr tweek to get one quick...

bitsbox are quick to send stuff!...you'll get it friday morn..

[kenyanscott]

oficially all purchased!

i got the switch from ebay it was cheaper than anywhere else.

now i just need to wait for it all to arrive, i think ill pop it all on the breadboard first, just to make sure i have it all working correctly then i can start the assembly onto the board.

i think ill mount the switch onto a small bit of board before i solder it just to make it a bit more stable

[deadastronaut]

great!..

yeah breadboards a good idea...

have a look in the layouts gallery search 'sho' theres a few other laouts in there for it....'renegadrians' (adriano's) are good!...and small....

good luck .

[kenyanscott]

love it!

smaller and it looks easier to build!

although im not sure about the parts cause, i can seem to follow the legend correctly 

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

have you clicked on it to see a bigger version of the pic? (this question seems offensive but anything can happen )

[iq01221]

Well, I usually don't use zeners, but I have one, and I'll put a SHO into a fuzz( as optional, 'course), so,¿ Is the zener in right position?¿ That two layouts are alternatives 'cause of that diode, rigth?

[kenyanscott]

The parts have all arrived! I think I'll start assembling today and maybe stick a photo up before I solder anything just so you guys can had a look and make sure I'm doing it okay :-)

[deadastronaut]

 ..are you doing it on vero then ?....

[kenyanscott]

I am, I'm going tO use the ightly larger board layout I feel a bit more confident using it that the smaller 7 x 7 or 6 x 6. It should still fit in the casing.

I'm feeling good about putting the main board together but slightly worried about connecting the jacks, dc connector, led and the switch! But I'm sure I'll get there in the end!

[deadastronaut]

just make sure you get any cuts in the right place!...

i usually reverse the image in photoshop...  then you can see where ya cuts are meant to go ok....

or print it out, and face it on the window..


the wiring will be a doddle....if it all works ok..


test it out on breadboard first when youve done the board, just to make sure it works, bfore you add the switch etc....

[kenyanscott]

f**k!!

right ive started today, and ive not got very far! im trying to cu a 10 x 5 or a 5 x 10 (10 along and 5 down) bit of vero board, and ill tell you what im making a right arse of it!!

so far ive tried 3 times, and every time it keeps breaking, and not where i want, im using a stanley knife to make the cuts, and hints or tips so i dont waster 2 bits of vero board on a tiny tiny section!

[kenyanscott]

okay im getting even more confused now!

im going for the original board i posted, simply because in my rush to order parts, i orders all the parts on the board, and didnt order some of the other parts

so some questions:

on the layout picture, it shows the layout of all the parts, now are they from the copper side of the board or the non copper side?

and onto the next questions: with the pot i am putting on instead of r5 - do I need to mount it on the board or can I leave it moving freely?

i know im being a royal pain in the ass with this guys i just want to make sure i get it right!

[Vince_b]

It's the non copper side.
And you don't have to mount the pot on the board.

[kenyanscott]

cheers vince b

ding ding round two coming up!!

hopefully get the majority of it built today

[kenyanscott]

okay im gonna put a picture up, but ive placed all the parts on the veroboard and it looks okay

picture is here:


you need to really zoom to see the writing i put on the picture


i have some questions though before I go and start soldering anything together:

1. some of the parts seem to wiggle about a bit, is that normal?

2. the capcitors have a negative sign on them, how do i know i have put them in the correct way?

[deadastronaut]

okay im gonna put a picture up, but ive placed all the parts on the veroboard and it looks okay

picture is here:


you need to really zoom to see the writing i put on the picture


i have some questions though before I go and start soldering anything together:

1. some of the parts seem to wiggle about a bit, is that normal?

2. the capcitors have a negative sign on them, how do i know i have put them in the correct way?

hi kenyan..wow thats a tiny pic!....

1: they will wiggle till you solder them..

2: the capacitor has the  grey stripe down one side...thats the negative...look on the layout, on layouts there is usually a grey part on the capacitor ...thats the negative side ok...

3: that yellow cap is massive!!!!..