UVICS - Univibe In a Crybaby Shell

[R.G.]

Neat.

Be aware that the LED/ LDR setup will change frequency on you a little as the LDR adapts to the light or dark situation it finds itself in, over a couple of seconds. Worst at very light or very dark.Not a big deal, just something to be aware of.

[endorphin]

I have a question. From the build instructions one thing I wasn't too clear on was the diode bridge rectifier. I have a 18v dc + barrel - tip adaptor would I need to use a bridge rectifier? If not then what about the polarity? Which pad would + and - go to.... D or C?

[aryk]

R G,
Any chance you could help me out with putting in a 3pdt? Also wanting to add a volume pot to the end of this. Think I can figure that one out on my own once I see how it can be wired to a 3pdt. Also was wondering how to set up the cancel switch? Also how would I wire up a dual led? I noticed Brad mentioned using one that indicated his chorus with one color and vibe on another. Sorry I'm a bit of a noob but am learning fast.
Love this build! You are a genius and definitely someone I look up to in the diy community so thank you for all you do.
Thanks,
Aryk

[aryk]

R G,
Any chance you could help me out with putting in a 3pdt? Also wanting to add a volume pot to the end of this. Think I can figure that one out on my own once I see how it can be wired to a 3pdt. Also was wondering how to set up the cancel switch? Also how would I wire up a dual led? I noticed Brad mentioned using one that indicated his chorus with one color and vibe on another. Sorry I'm a bit of a noob but am learning fast.
Love this build! You are a genius and definitely someone I look up to in the diy community so thank you for all you do.
Thanks,
Aryk

With the cancel switch I'm wanting it to function like the mdv-2 where the pedal is activated when rocked forward using a heel switch. I noticed someone had mentioned that they did it but only worked with the son of uvics boards because of space. Also anyone know where to find a B150k dual pot? (don't think it's possible unless I take one out of a mdv-2) Or maybe a way to make a dual B100k into a B150k, I'm told this will add slower speeds. Any help would be greatly appreciated  

EDIT: Cancel the 3pdt figured it out.

[aryk]

Hey Brymus, sounds like you want what I'm going for on my next one.  I have the makings for one more wah/vibe which I plan on being an over the top "light show spectacle", lol. The one in the vid features one of the excellent boards that Brad made into one of my spare cry baby shells. Also, you may have noticed the 2 LEDs and the rock back bypass, that was also a JC design that I sort of guinea pigged with him over the last year, and I love it!  I wanted the "rock back" like the original vibe's cancel, but with true bypass.  The new one, I'll be painting with an expensive PPG metallic red, with white stenciled graphics (I have a complete PPG mix system at work so why not?). 1/4" Lexan for the bottom plate which I will have several bright leds indicators, (stop/go/speed ind, etc.) somehow directed into it (yet to figure that one out! ) I want it to be TOTALLY over the top, LOL! And I'm sure it wouldn't be everyone's cup of tea, but I GOTTA do it man, as it will be a one-off for me only!
Also, a special opto speed contoller circuit will be utilized instead of the standard 100k dual..   FUN FUN!!!!

Dave

I too prefer utilizing a heel switch option Dave.

In my case I've leaned toward the old style cancel switch and just use the stock wah-switch for true bypass and of course  tailoring the speed range into that physical area of pedal travel.





UVICS builders will not be able to do it like this of course because the area needed for these mods is used up the PCB and it's power section and stuff.

Feedback from my peeps (live/stage) indicates more liking toward using "cancel" during a song as it keeps the tone of the pedal during the song (that 3-transistor vibe preamp does have a "tone" to it) and then they use the normal true-bypass switch to remove the vibe from the chain for other songs.
(switching between songs)

On my (full retail product) Vibe-Baby pedals I use a dual color LED (Red/Green) for indication of effect in (On) and out (Off), it's Red for Vibrato mode, Green for Chorus mode. I don;t usually use either (JC or Bob Sweet) speed indicator as I prefer the user to dial in the speed "by ear".

BTW how's that new JC bypass board working out? is it ready for prime time? I'd like to try that myself one of these days.

EDIT:
Hey! The site pages for the Forum vibe look sharp Brad!
Nice work on those. Comprehensive!  

Thanks John, it was definately worth the effort. Thanks also to those who helped debug the pages, which reminds me, if ya see errors please send an email and I can focus on corrections.

Would there be a way to fit it in a shell using the UVICS board? I know it would be tight but I'm not thinking of using the screws to secure the board just float it there. Maybe the switch could fit under the board?

[RedHouse]

Aryk, no offence intended but WTF?

You keep asking questions that have been covered here/there/everywhere as-nausium, ad-infinitum, bypass switches, cancel switches, adding volume controls, etc etc etc.

As far as the univibe thing goes the list is long with doc's and info, JC, RG, Madbean, and myself have all made doc's available on our websites that cove all this stuff, not to mention all the previous posts here (and on the "other" forum) why are you asking everyone to re-type, re-post, regurgitate all this same-'ol same-'ol? c'mon man, get on the ball and do the searches, read the threads, and you'll find everything you are asking has be discused before, ...and more than once.

Peace-out my friend.

[R.G.]

I have a question. From the build instructions one thing I wasn't too clear on was the diode bridge rectifier. I have a 18v dc + barrel - tip adaptor would I need to use a bridge rectifier? If not then what about the polarity? Which pad would + and - go to.... D or C?

Catching up on backlog here.

If you have an 18V DC adaptor, the bridge rectifier is not needed.

As a second and independent consideration, if you plan to use the *same* 18Vdc adapter with its (-) terminal connected to ground on other pedals, you will get hum and overload issues if you *do* use the bridge rectifier. Notice that this is *only* if the same adapter has its negative terminal used on other pedals. If it is used only for the UVICS (or Neovibe), then this is not an issue.

If you decide to run it on the DC adapter without the bridge rectifier, then look at the project files on line at geofex.com. Study the x-ray view which shows the component outlines and traces as well as the lettered pads. Two of the pads connect to the pins of the bridge rectifier which have squiggles (denoting AC voltage) beside them. One pad has a "+" by it, the other has a "-" by it. You have to get the "+" pin of your adapter plug to that "+" pad, and the "-" pin of your adapter plug to the pad with a "-" by it.

Perhaps the easiest way, if a bit sloppy, is to mount your DC jack in the enclosure and attach two different-colored wires to the pins. Before you attach the wires to the PCB, plug your power adapter into the jack and then use your meter to see which color wire is + and which is -.  Write that down so you don't mix it up when you do the actual wiring. Now remove the adapter plug from the jack and stick the "+" wire into the hole which used to be for the "+" pin of the bridge rectifier and solder. Then do the same for the "-" wire, going into the "-" pad.

This leaves the wires going into the interior of the PCB, which works, but I always think of as a beginner's mistake that looks bad. You can do the same thing by running a wire jumper between the "+" pad of the bridge rectifier footprint on the PCB and the nearest AC/squiggle pad, and then doing the same for the "-" pad and the other AC/squiggle. This connects the + and - bridge rectifier pin positions to pads on the edge of the PCB, and lets you do the same hookup for the wires as above.

As a side note, don't use a metal-body DC jack/socket. Many people have tried this and it doesn't turn out well in most cases. Use a plastic-body DC jack/socket so it's not shorted to the enclosure.

@ aryk
Sorry I didn't get there in time, and good on you for figuring out 3PDT.

[aryk]

@Brad
Easy dude I've done some research. Try to have a heart as I'm new at this. And I read every word of this whole thread and the questions I'm asking have been eluded on by those that know what their doing not detailed out for people like me. What pdf's am I looking for? And I'm not looking for univibe info just mods to this particular circuit. (which is based of the univibe, I know I know). I edited the post saying figured out the 3ptd and that would cover the volume pot as well. Mainly I'm now asking if there is a way to get a dual B150K in there (if there is one) and if you could help me fit the cancel switch in using the uvics 3 board. I was hoping that someone as understanding as Keen to respond with patience and some guidance other than a "WTF?" from you. This is a place to learn not a place to make others feel stupid. So now that you've accomplished this can you please help me with the above items as no they have not been covered in this thread.

[RedHouse]

@Brad
Easy dude I've done some research. Try to have a heart as I'm new at this. And I read every word of this whole thread and the questions I'm asking have been eluded on by those that know what their doing not detailed out for people like me. What pdf's am I looking for? And I'm not looking for univibe info just mods to this particular circuit. (which is based of the univibe, I know I know). I edited the post saying figured out the 3ptd and that would cover the volume pot as well. Mainly I'm now asking if there is a way to get a dual B150K in there (if there is one) and if you could help me fit the cancel switch in using the uvics 3 board. I was hoping that someone as understanding as Keen to respond with patience and some guidance other than a "WTF?" from you. This is a place to learn not a place to make others feel stupid. So now that you've accomplished this can you please help me with the above items as no they have not been covered in this thread.

Didn't mean to make you feel stupid, sorry if my post made you feel that way.

My bracket (the picture you re-posted) fits in my pedal and PCB but I can't say if it will fit in yours (make one and see?).

Your question "Would there be a way to fit it in a shell using the UVICS board? I know it would be tight" well RG's your man on that, but otherwise that's the cool thing about boldly going forward, putting down the mouse and picking up the screwdriver one can try stuff and see/make it work, fabrication of a simple bracket is very cool once you get after it. The one in the pic you re-posted started out as a piece of 3x5 card (paper) which I cut-to-fit, folded, trimmed, re-cut, re-folded etc until I had something that would work, then I used a strip of brass flatstock (hobby shop, Ace hardware, etc) and then made the real bracket following the paper pattern.

The other thing you asked might (should) draw the usual replys, "Also anyone know where to find a B150k dual pot? (don't think it's possible unless I take one out of a mdv-2) Or maybe a way to make a dual B100k into a B150k" did you try the usual suspects? Aron, Smallbear, Mouser, Jameco, Allied, Digikey, eBay, pedalpartsplus, Mammoth, Allparts, Tubeampstore, Parts Express, BG Micro, Bonzai,  Circuit Specialists (Webtronics), Maplin, RS (Radio Spares), RS (Tandy), Future Electronics, Dunlop, Electronic Goldmine, Tayda, Electronic Surplus, Oztronics, etc?.

BTW, doesn't "WTF" stand for "Whatya Think'in Friend", man, I really need to get my money back on this cyber-acronyms book I bought, sheesh!

[aryk]

Awesome thanks for the info on the bracket I'll try that out. And Yeah I checked everywhere, only thing I can think to do is swap out wafers, change a 250 to a 150 using resistors, or take one out of a mdv-2. It's not that big of a deal to have one but in reading the reasons why f*llt0ne used one it makes sense and I'm assuming it would add more range to the speeds both slow and fast, so I thought I would try and find one; otherwise I'll just use the stock b100k.

What are your thoughts on a dual pot verses standard and how that effects the lfo and speed on this? I haven't heard a lot on the differences between the two and wondered if you might give your opinion before I go ahead and try them both out anyway (maybe some things to look for when hearing them?). I haven't starting mounting components but will soon and am most likely going to socket as much as I can as I'm unfamiliar with this build and want to take my time with it making it perfect.

Sorry questions are so loaded...  but what I've found helps me learn faster is not being afraid to ask them and of course tons and tons of web searches.
Thanks for your patience (where can I find those web files you've made on this?)

[RedHouse]

...What are your thoughts on a dual pot verses standard and how that effects the lfo and speed on this? I haven't heard a lot on the differences between the two and wondered if you might give your opinion before I go ahead and try them both out anyway (maybe some things to look for when hearing them?).

RG's your man for all that, I don't use the single-pot speed control in any of my vibe's.

I'm fine with the original LFO, and really, that is what my peep's are after too. IMHO some "problems" don't need fixing, but then when people have all kinds of spare time anything can happen.

Good luck with your build, roger-wilco, over-n-out.

[aryk]

Thanks, only reason I'm using a single is cause its the stock hot potz 2 that was in the wah enclosure so I figured why not... And since he provided wiring using the stock pot I didn't think to use a dual pot but now I'm second guessing and wanting to find a dual one instead as It might give it a lot more versatility. My biggest obsession is the ability to have multiple ways to change a sound on a pedal (thank god for switches and knobs) and creating a pedal that can switch between dozens of modes is what I'm after.

Do you know anything about a mod to switch between the "vintage" and "modern" vibe sounds? f*llt0ne had one and wondered if that just meant that they were switching some diode or tranny section. Apparently the "modern" sound is more open and louder. I'd like to look in to this if it's something that can be done on this board. But again I am limited (noob).

Thanks again for your responses they are helping out a ton.

@RG
What differences have you notice when using the baby board with the single pot verses the stock wiring with the dual?

[aryk]

(bump) (Keen?)

[R.G.]

Sorry - got preempted for a while.

I have no idea what 'vintage' versus 'modern' means.

The baby board changes the possible range of the LFO, and makes its speed change a little slower and 'looser'. It also makes it a bit less definitive.  LDRs have a wider resistance range that most pots, in that they commonly go over 1M in dark conditions. This may not be good, as the LFO transistors have a maximum resistance the dual speed pot can be and still have enough feedback to keep the oscillation going.  The resistors in the stock circuit, 4.7K in series with the footpedal pot and 220K in parallel, help keep the footpedal pot within the range no matter what. but if you don't have the 220Ks in there, the thing will try to go..very..s.l.o.w.. and may stop oscillating. This can generally be fixed by tinkering the resistors in those positions or changing the Q11/Q12 transistors to have more current gain and/or higher input impedance to not load down the feedback signal so much. Changing Q11 for a low-Vgsoff JFET works well, if you also change the 2.2M bias resistor to something bigger, like maybe 4.7M to 10M; this gives you oscillation at lower speeds without stopping. Making Q11 and/or Q12 an integrated darlington helps as well, but even darlingtons don't have as much current gain as a JFET. This is one place where the J201's odd nature helps, if you sub it for Q11.

There is another quirk. LDRs all dark-adapt, including the ones in the single-to-double speed pot conversion. I found on my prototype that I could set the speed, and if I set it too low, it went ahead and got even slower a few seconds later as the LDRs dark adapted. It's an oddity, but one that I didn't bother to go fix.

One interesting thing you can do if you use the LED/dual LDR thing is to make the speed switchable from one setting to another ala LERA, also at geofex. Punching a footswitch will make it speed up and slow down like a leslie rotor speeding up or slowing over possibly a few seconds.  Neat trick if you like that kind of thing. I've made those for a few performers who like it.

[aryk]

Nice build Brymus, good job!

All the speed change is in just a slight turn of the pot/treadel.
About 3/4 of the treadel is too slow then bam its maxed out.

Yep, it's not a slam-dunk as is commonly believed.

I actually import my pots, they have a special taper to even out the speed range with the treadle travel.

I was just wondering where you get these imported pots? I may order some myself.

[aryk]

Nice build Brymus, good job!

All the speed change is in just a slight turn of the pot/treadel.
About 3/4 of the treadel is too slow then bam its maxed out.

Yep, it's not a slam-dunk as is commonly believed.

I actually import my pots, they have a special taper to even out the speed range with the treadle travel.

I was just wondering where you get these imported pots? I may order some myself.

bump

[RedHouse]

I was just wondering where you get these imported pots? I may order some myself.

Well I import them, that's where I get them, from my source, overseas.

[aryk]

K... Is there any way I could buy some from you or your source? I would rather avoid doing it Steve's way with all the epoxy and try and do as little work as possible to get some to fit the enclosure.

[RedHouse]

Send me an email.

[aryk]

So I finished the pedal and to my "suprise"! all I got was bypass... I was almost expecting this due to the difficulty of the build and all the trannies. (been having rotten luck with them lately) Anyways so first issues I noticed and resolved was the polarized caps on the baby board were wrong. I'm hoping this didn't damage any of the other components. So after fixing that and replaced one of them (the top of it had bulged out, glad it didn't explode) and also put in the stock spdt switch instead of the modded 3pdt with LED as I was getting frustrated with the LED not working. I checked the power going from the ac jack through the baby board to the main board any everything is working fine. Where I seem to be losing guitar signal is Q1. I'm getting readings just fine on it but no guitar signal. So I'm removing all the 2n5088's and socketing them all just in case that way I can at least eliminate that issue easier (should have done this to begin with). So now I'm wondering where I should go from here? I also checked as many joints as I could for possible cold joints and couldn't find anything other than on one of the trimmers the lead wasn't through the solder so fixed that also. I put in the LDR following LED and got nothing there either. I put a 1k R connected to the + lead. Any help would be much appreciated. Will follow up with pics and as many voltage reading as I can on the Qs and ICs.