Building the Meat Sphere

[mthibeau]

I had trouble with all 4 LM1458 chips I got from Tayda. I ordered a MC1458 and it worked (I also tried an NE5532 and it finally enveloped, but wasn't very smooth, I used the suggested vactrols in mine instead of hand rolled ones)

... I think this is the 4th report of trouble with that op amp in this thread.

[LaceSensor]

Roger that mine were tayda

The 5532 with my own vactrols sound wonderful.
Smoother than I recall my previous build

[Govmnt_Lacky]

On the cusp of pulling the trigger to build this  A few questions first....

Has anyone verified a COMPLETE list of subbable dual op amps for the LM1458 that will work? I have some KA4558s here that "apparently" are close to the 1458 but, I have not seen them used. Is there a list of usuable subs?

Also, has anyone rolled their own vactrols for this? If so, what LDRs specs and color/brightness LED specs did you use?

Thanks for the assist 

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Out of stock until August??

Taylor?? 

[soggybag]

The original Lovetone pedals use 5mm diffuse green LEDs
Thats what I have used in the two of these that I have built.
I took a best guess at the LDR and 1M/10K works brilliantly. I have a real 96 model to compare to

However, an oddity: In my last build, 4 x 1458 chips wouldnt envelope at all.
So I tried some other op amps. Only ones that worked were ne5532s....
So ...go figure?!

I think you're right about the LDR/LED. This is probably the part to adjust. The op-amps are less important. I notice in pictures of the original the LDR and LED were in sockets. Figure Lovetone used sockets for a reason. I don't think they would solder extra parts without a reason.

Mine worked but sounded pretty lifeless with the VTL5C3. The envelope was there but just didn't sound very good. It also was hard to dial in for some settings. I'm sure Lovetone would not have sold very may if the originals sounded like mine.

I changed to the Futurlec LDR, PHOTOCELL2 10K - 1M, and a random LED, and it sort of woke up. I just did a short test. I added sockets for the LDR/LED pair for more testing. I need to put it back in the box for real testing since the new parts are not light tight. I'll post again after a few more tests.

I built up a second board today. I used sockets for this one also.

[LaceSensor]

The original Lovetone pedals use 5mm diffuse green LEDs
Thats what I have used in the two of these that I have built.
I took a best guess at the LDR and 1M/10K works brilliantly. I have a real 96 model to compare to

However, an oddity: In my last build, 4 x 1458 chips wouldnt envelope at all.
So I tried some other op amps. Only ones that worked were ne5532s....
So ...go figure?!

I think you're right about the LDR/LED. This is probably the part to adjust. The op-amps are less important. I notice in pictures of the original the LDR and LED were in sockets. Figure Lovetone used sockets for a reason. I don't think they would solder extra parts without a reason.

Mine worked but sounded pretty lifeless with the VTL5C3. The envelope was there but just didn't sound very good. It also was hard to dial in for some settings. I'm sure Lovetone would not have sold very may if the originals sounded like mine.

I changed to the Futurlec LDR, PHOTOCELL2 10K - 1M, and a random LED, and it sort of woke up. I just did a short test. I added sockets for the LDR/LED pair for more testing. I need to put it back in the box for real testing since the new parts are not light tight. I'll post again after a few more tests.

I built up a second board today. I used sockets for this one also.

Lovetone have never used sockets to my knowledge
What they do use is little plastic riser/spacer to get the led and ldr aligned.
I would strongly just suggest 10k/1m with green diffuse 5mm led.
Credentials: I have the original meatball and I've cloned the dopp and I've tested lots of ldr led combos in my effects...

[LaceSensor]

On the cusp of pulling the trigger to build this   A few questions first....

Has anyone verified a COMPLETE list of subbable dual op amps for the LM1458 that will work? I have some KA4558s here that "apparently" are close to the 1458 but, I have not seen them used. Is there a list of usuable subs?

Also, has anyone rolled their own vactrols for this? If so, what LDRs specs and color/brightness LED specs did you use?

Thanks for the assist  

Just have the usual suspects on hand in case
Tayda 1458s don't envelope for me, so buy them elsewhere.
Mc1458 should work.
I also had good experience with ne5532

For the vactrol,avoid expensive silonex or vtl units and just get some 10k/1M ldr and pair with 5mm diffuse green led. You don't need to,shrink wrap them either, lovetone never have....in any of their pedals.

[4floorsofwhores]

I have used a desoldering iron from Radio Shack for this type of thing. It's just one of their cheap irons attached to a solder sucker, but it's easier to use than separate tools.

thanks i'll give it a go

[Govmnt_Lacky]

So.....

Does anyone know when these will become available?

Paging Mr. Taylor.... Mr. Taylor.... You are wanted in the Sales aisle... 

[Taylor]

Unfortunately it's going to be a while. I just updated the site to reflect that I should definitely have them before the new year.

[dujuarez]

I have a question about the 3P4T rotary switches. How do I solder to board so that A,B,C and 1-12 are in the correct position?

[Taylor]

They are radially symmetrical if you use the ones spec'ed in the docs, so as long as they fit into the board they're oriented correctly.

[chicago_mike]

MY status LED, which is a clear orange. Could be a 1000CD or 10000CD..Or is it CM ? I kinda forgot....

Ayways...right now my status led resistor is a 470 ohm. Should I change this to a higher value? And this would only affect the status LED anyways right? Not the LDR's by any chance?

I see some clones have as low as 330ohm to as high as 10K. My led has not burned out yet, but with a 470 ohm and such a high rated led, could it be drawing more current than needed and taking it from the pcb?

[Taylor]

RLED only limits the current to the the visible LED. It needs to be valued differently for different LEDs. If it's bright enough, you're fine. If it's too bright, increase the RLED value and if it's too dim, decrease it.

[GoranP]

Taylor, how 'bout some meatsphere boards? Any in the works?
I've got some homeless rotaries that need taking care of... 

[Jopn]

Taylor, how 'bout some meatsphere boards? Any in the works?
I've got some homeless rotaries that need taking care of... 

Hey Goran, Taylor posted up an update about 4 replies earlier in this thread.

[GoranP]

Oh crap... 

I really need to read more carefully... just got my rotaries for some other projects and put some aside for a MS.
Checked T's web (as I religiously do every other week) for some boards and just completely missed that bit of information.

[chicago_mike]

Okay thanks!

What if the status LED never goes off? In up sweep or Down sweep? 

I'm sure I have a minor issue with the build, but nothing a little time can't fix.

[chicago_mike]

Okay so I solved my Status LED issue. Just a quick resistor change.

I'm running it with a 1458 and 5C3 vactrols.

What I noticed is it's a little easy to get it to distort. Its not too much distortion, but its more than what I'd like out of it. Other than this..the thing is almost perfect.

So, with this in mind I have ..... over 60 NSL32's I can try, a couple more 5C3's I can try. A handful of photoresistors, but I need to make sure they are 10K / 1M and a few leds that are diffused.

As far as opamps...I have 5532's, 1458's 4558's, TL072, NJM 2068's..OPA2604's...The 074 is a ST, not a TI...but this should not be a problem..correct?

What should I start with if my filter is just a little overdriven and I want as clean as I can get?

[LaceSensor]

Socket and experiment,

I've written already a few times my experience.
Led and correct ldr is the best solution. Nsl32 sound like shit.
5c3 I didn't try.
Op amp try the 5532 then other 1458s