First attempt at making my own PCBs

Started by frequencycentral, August 03, 2011, 08:17:50 AM

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Gurner

#40
Quote from: jonasx26 on August 06, 2011, 07:11:17 AM
I use a Proxxon "Precision drill/grinder FBS 240/E"  
http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28472.php

With a Proxxon "MICROMOT drill stand MB 140/S"
http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/28606.php

+1...this is the exact setup I use.

Proxxon - though little known vs Dremel - is a good quality German brand easily obtainable in the UK (Conrad Uk quite often have reasonable Proxxon prices & discount codes if you hunt around)...the Proxxon is *far* better than the Dremel for drilling PCBs (both from a runout & vibration perspective)

deadastronaut

^ my missus bought me a dremel drill press the same as in the video , and it seemed really naff...wobbly as f...,   i never even tried it, i sold it straight away....then  i saw that video, and it just confirmed it...

thing was, i didn't even have a dremel!.. :icon_rolleyes:...don't let women buy tools as presents..!... :)

i'm happy with my minicraft now!... :)
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

frequencycentral

Quote from: Pigyboy on August 06, 2011, 08:07:18 AM
Hi Rick - What are you using to cut your boards after they are etched?

I've gone for the rather fetching lo-tech stanley knife and tri-square look for this season. Score both sides, stick it in a vice and snap along the score line. Then file smooth. But I'm a PCB noob - there's gotta be a better way???

http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

Gurner

#43
Quote
What are you using to cut your boards after they are etched?

I use a Proxxon mini table saw, but for a cheaper alternative ....somewhat surprisingly, a good quality paper lever type guillotine cuts 1.6mm FR4 very well (but is obviously only useful for non curved shapes)

Or alternatively, if you fancy risking some fingers, use a 99p plastic footstool & your proxxon/dremel as a cheapskate's PCB mini-table saw...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61Q_6-cRua4

Perrow

I use my Dremel with a diamond cutting disk to cut my boards, and to smooth the edges, and cutting other stuff, and cutting large square holes in boxes, and ... well, almost anything I can think of :)
My stompbox wiki -> http://rumbust.net

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Pigyboy

I know you guys have seen this and it is looking better to me everyday.....
http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order
And you'll have to admit, I'll be rich as shit
I'll just sit and grin, the money will roll right in....
                                                            - FANG

Le québécois

I use this:   http://www.arichard.com/ui/s_public/en/products_detail.aspx?id=5114   This is to cut kitchen counter laminate surface.
very cheap (less than 10$) and very likely available at your local store. I just pass a couple of time on the board (not the copper side) with the knife along a piece of wood or a ruler align with the cutting line.

rockhorst

maybe one of those tile cutters, though that might be overkill?
Nucleon FX - PCBs at the core of tone

iccaros

Quote from: Pigyboy on August 06, 2011, 08:07:18 AM
Anybody else use this stuff for pcbs?

http://es.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Unspecified/TONER-TRANFER-PAPER-50-1101/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvJBlHRSOGUxJy1qUBMdNmkdiGgUPvZtjU%3d

Been using it for a while now and it works great after you figure it out. I am using the iron by hand method. I found this stuff holds the toner better that the blue, plastic pnp that scratches so easily.

*Hi Rick - What are you using to cut your boards after they are etched?
I have been using to great successes, good transfer every time from the first one, is the backing to labels. So I take all the labels off a sheet and I am left with the wax backing, print to that and iron.

R.G.

Quote from: Pigyboy on August 06, 2011, 08:07:18 AM
What are you using to cut your boards after they are etched?
I use a 12" shear intended for metal up to 18Ga that I got from Harbor Freight about a decade ago. I don't think they carry it any more, sadly. It's worked GREAT all that time.

I'm trying something new. I got a scroll saw from Craigslist for $25. Should give good control and with some clamps and a guide, straight lines, which is what is hardest with scroll saws. I'll let you know how it works.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

Gurner

Quote from: R.G. on August 06, 2011, 02:17:53 PM
Quote from: Pigyboy on August 06, 2011, 08:07:18 AM
What are you using to cut your boards after they are etched?
I use a 12" shear intended for metal up to 18Ga that I got from Harbor Freight about a decade ago. I don't think they carry it any more, sadly. It's worked GREAT all that time.

I'm trying something new. I got a scroll saw from Craigslist for $25. Should give good control and with some clamps and a guide, straight lines, which is what is hardest with scroll saws. I'll let you know how it works.

If I was a betting man, I''d wager your steel saw blade will blunt in no time at all...to cut fibreglass well over time really needs a carbide tipped saw.

R.G.

Quote from: Gurner on August 06, 2011, 03:18:17 PM
If I was a betting man, I''d wager your steel saw blade will blunt in no time at all...to cut fibreglass well over time really needs a carbide tipped saw.
I would bet the same way. After all it was me who was advising that HSS drill bits will wear out in short order a few posts up from here.

But I consider small saw blades to be expendable in this and similar applications. I don't expect it to last well over time. And the precision needed of sawing board outlines is different from the precision needed to drill holes.

My philosophy is that if you know what you're going to be tearing up or wearing out, and that's what you intended to do, it's fine.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

CodeMonk

I use a band saw to cut most of mine.
A scroll saw would be nice though.

deadastronaut

i use a little hacksaw...then rub the pcb's edges on a long file....but i'd love a quicker way..the guilliotine idea sounds good, i saw some video of a guy using one of those..

no dust, and sharp clean edges too..and quick. :icon_cool:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

robmdall


waltk

QuoteI use a band saw to cut most of mine.
A scroll saw would be nice though.

A tabletop bandsaw with a finetooth metal cutting blade works great.  I also have a (very good) scroll saw, and it doesn't work well at all - breaks blades too quickly.

Gurner

#56
This is what I use (with a generic carbide tipped blade, but you can buy a specific PCB blade for it)...

http://www.proxxon-direct.com/acatalog/27070_lrg.jpg (though I didn't buy it just for PCBs.!)

....it works superbly.

bean

Quote from: robmdall on August 08, 2011, 12:34:07 PM
Wonder if anyone is using one of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-mighty-mite-table-saw-93211.html

I used it for about a year. A bandsaw is definitely superior. The mini table saw kicks up a TON of PCB dust everywhere and does not cut as straight (if you are free handing it).

defaced

Band saw and a belt sander.  Saw to get close, sand to get it right. 
-Mike