DIY Reverb: collected resources

[armdnrdy]

I was thinking you might want to try the tone switch in another location.

At the point where R8 and C8 join. That way you are just changing the tone of the reverb not the dry signal.

[deadastronaut]

hmmm guess i'll have to pull it apart and  re-breadboard it ..does this look better?

[armdnrdy]

Sent an email with modified schematic.

[deadastronaut]

righto, back on it, i have it on breadboard again....

this time i have:

input 22k, and a 4.7n to ground then the rest as the most recent schematic (larry) (armndry) sent me..cheers.

its a much better 'tonal' match now ..it was way too bright otherwise, way off unity etc..

i got rid of the 1M pulldown on the end too, (no popping when on/off) so thats ok.

i used the 100k vol pot on the very end and lost the 470r, i used a 2.2k on the bright/warm caps and that seems fine.

i have no noise issues at all now. even when maxed .



i'll knock up another pcb layout and then we'll see if  it behaves ...

[deadastronaut]

ok, i still have this on breadboard...everything is fine, apart from a loud 'pop' when switching between bright/warm...which is a bummer.

ive tried a resistor to ground on both sides of the switch etc to no avail.....hmmm.... ..i'm using the middle and one side of an spdt for the swtch

[mth5044]

Maybe use a potentiometer for a tone control instead of the switch?

[deadastronaut]

cheers matthew,

good idea, but i'd like to keep this as a 4 pot jobby, i'm trying to squeeze it into a 1590B.

[AdamM]

Try moving the switch to be between R15 and ground, and with a higher value (eg 1M) resistor across the switch contacts. Might work....

[deadastronaut]

cheers adam, just tried it...still pops, it loses the tone change with a 1M anyway...needs to be 2.2k -ish....hmmmm...

[AdamM]

no you misunderstood me - keep R15 at 2.2k, move the switch to be between R15 & ground. Now, add an additional ~1M resistor across the switch contacts so that when its open, R15 is now in series with 1M, and when the switch is closed, R15 is in series with nothing.

The popping is due to the capacitors charging/discharging when you ground/float them. The ~1M across the switch could (possibly) maintain enough charge in the caps (when the switch is open) to reduce popping to an acceptable level.

[deadastronaut]

@adam: ahh ok, i'll try that...


thread moved to...

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=101126.new#new

edit: tried it, yeah that works when not playing through it. it only pops when signal is going through it , but i'm fine with that. cheers.

i'll try other suggestions too before i knock up a layout though.