Debugging a MXR Blue Box Clone from Tonepad.

[hypnoraygun]

This is for a MXR Blue Box Clone.
Okay, I've tried a lot of different wiring combinations, one of my first (and very timely) mistakes was trying to wire to a 3PDT momentary switch.. Obviously I had issues. That was my mistake, as all of this is.. but I thought it was a normal switch. I did have a normal 3pdt switch that I tried and nothing worked. I also tried a LED with various set ups, and I think it burnt out..? I finally wired to a normal 6 prong pdt switch. I'm able to get a clean sound, but no effect sound. I have gone all over the back of the board using the continuity setting, following the paths and I get connections all over the board. I have looked up the chips multiple times to make sure they are in correctly. I have triple verified the placement of the capacitors, diodes and transistors. Any help would be very much appreciated. I can not get this to work and it is my third day trying to work on it... FAIL.. If you couldn't tell I'm very new to this.

Here is my Check List.
1.What does it do, not do, and sound like?
I'm using a PDT,when I switch it once I'm able to get a clean sound, when it is switched again, I get nothing. (this is with the 9volt battery).. When I plug it to a wall adapter, I get a buzzing noise, which can be made louder or softer by the R21 Pedometer.

2.Name of the circuit =
It is the MXR Blue Box Clone from Tonepad.com http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=33

3.Source of the circuit (URL of schematic or project) =
http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=73

4.Any modifications to the circuit? Y or N
At this time none.

5.Any parts substitutions? If yes, list them.
The only part substitution I had to make, (that I know of, as in.. I could have ordered the wrong part and not even know it?) even if this is one is for C2: I had to get a .047 instead of a .05.. Isn't that the same thing?  I will post what I ordered below, I ordered for two projects though, this one and the Rebote 2.5.

6.Positive ground to negative ground conversion? Y or N
I have no idea? I don't think so..?

7.Turn your meter on, set it to the 10V or 20V scale. Remove the battery from the battery clip. Probe the battery terminals with the meter leads before putting it in the clip. What is the out of circuit battery voltage? =>
8.31

Now insert the battery into the clip. If your effect is wired so that a plug must be in the input or output jack to turn the battery power on, insert one end of a cord into that jack. Connect the negative/black meter lead to signal ground by clipping the negative/black lead to the outer sleeve of the input or output jack, whichever does not have a plug in it. With the negative lead on signal ground, measure the following:

Voltage at the circuit board end of the red battery lead =
I'm not sure I'm doing this properly. When I place the negative on either input or output jack and then test voltage anywhere I'm getting nothing..? But I'm not sure I'm doing this step properly.
Voltage at the circuit board end of the black battery lead = Same as above, not sure?

Now, using the original schematic as a reference for which part is which (that is, which transistor is Q1, Q2, etc. and which IC is IC1, IC2, C1, and so on) measure and list the voltage on each pin of every transistor and IC. Just keep the black lead on ground, and touch the pointed end of the red probe to each one in turn.
Report the voltages as follows:

Q1 = 2N3904
C =8.31
B =8.31
E =8.31

Q2= 2N3904
C=8.32
B=7.55
E=8.29

Q3= 2N3904
C=8.32
B=7.09
E=8.27

IC1 = 4558D (part list doesn't include the D?)
P1=7.76
P2=7.88
P3=7.90
P4=8.33
P5=8.30
P6=8.26
P7=8.28
P8=8.33

IC2 =CD4013
P1=7.81
P2=7.81
P3=7.81
P4=8.32
P5=7.81
P6=8.32
P7=8.32
P8=8.33
P9=7.82
P10=8.33
P11=8.32
P12=7.82
P13=7.82
P14=8.32

D1 =1N914
A (anode, the non-band end) =8.33
K (cathode, the banded end) =8.33

D2=1N914
A =8.07
K =8.31

D3=1N914
A =8.33
K =8.08

I've wired the PDT switch and offboard wiring according to the second page of this document http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=76

But when I did that, I had the black wire running to the input jack ring of a stereo jack and the batter would heat up as soon as I put in a cable. I removed the black wire and it doesn't over heat..?

Here is a list of every item I ordered for this (also included are parts for a Rebote 2.5 pedal)
4 Metal Film 6.8K To 39K Individual
   (10K) @ $0.20 = $0.80

   11 Metal Film 43K To 220K Individual
   (56K) @ $0.20 = $2.20

   1 Metal Film 43K To 220K Individual
   (150K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   5 Metal Film 240K To 2.2 Meg Individual
   (1 Meg) @ $0.20 = $1.00

   3 Metal Film 120 Ohms To 1K Individual
   (1K) @ $0.20 = $0.60

   1 Metal Film 240K To 2.2 Meg Individual
   (470K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   1 Metal Film 120 Ohms To 1K Individual
   (330 Ohms) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   1 Metal Film 240K To 2.2 Meg Individual
   (2.2 Meg) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   1 Metal Film 1.1K To 6.2K Individual
   (2.7K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   8 Metal Film 6.8K To 39K Individual
   (12K) @ $0.20 = $1.60

   1 Metal Film 6.8K To 39K Individual
   (15K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   3 Metal Film 6.8K To 39K Individual
   (24K) @ $0.20 = $0.60

   1 Metal Film 6.8K To 39K Individual
   (33K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   1 Metal Film 43K To 220K Individual
   (47K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   1 Metal Film 43K To 220K Individual
   (100K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   1 Metal Film 240K To 2.2 Meg Individual
   (240K) @ $0.20 = $0.20

   2 Metal Film 240K To 2.2 Meg Individual
   (511K) @ $0.20 = $0.40

   1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper
   (50K Audio) @ $1.25 = $1.25

   1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper
   (100K Audio) @ $1.25 = $1.25

   1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper
   (25K Linear) @ $1.25 = $1.25

   1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper
   (50K Linear) @ $1.25 = $1.25

   1 Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper
   (100K Linear) @ $1.25 = $1.25

   2 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B 470 pf - .039 mf (50V)
   (.001 mF) @ $0.30 = $0.60

   1 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B 470 pf - .039 mf (50V)
   (.027 mF) @ $0.30 = $0.30

   1 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B 470 pf - .039 mf (50V)
   (560 pF) @ $0.30 = $0.30

   3 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B  .082 mf  (50V)
   (.082 mf.) @ $0.30 = $0.90

   1 Capacitor Silver Mica 500V 180 pf. - 430 pf.
   (300 pf) @ $0.75 = $0.75

   6 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Radial 25V 1 mf. - 1000 mf.
   (1 mf (50V)) @ $0.20 = $1.20

   2 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Radial 25V 1 mf. - 1000 mf.
   (10 mf) @ $0.20 = $0.40

   2 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Radial 25V 1 mf. - 1000 mf.
   (100 mf) @ $0.25 = $0.50

   5 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Radial 25V 1 mf. - 1000 mf.
   (47 mf) @ $0.20 = $1.00

   6 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-V .01 mf. - .056 mf.
   (.01 mf.) @ $0.30 = $1.80

   2 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-V .01 mf. - .056 mf.
   (.047 mf.) @ $0.30 = $0.60

   5 Capacitor, Topmay TCM05, .001 mf - .1 mf
   (.1 mf) @ $0.25 = $1.25

   1 Xicon Ceramic Capacitors, 47 pf. to 820 pf.
   (51 pf.) @ $0.15 = $0.15

   1 Xicon Ceramic Capacitors, 4.7 pf. to 33 pf.
   (4.7 pf) @ $0.15 = $0.15

   1 IC JRC4558D
   (JRC4558D) @ $0.45 = $0.45

   1 IC CD4013
   (IC CD4013) @ $0.45 = $0.45

   1 IC PT2399
    @ $3.95 = $3.95

   1 IC TL072
   (TL072) @ $0.70 = $0.70

   1 IC 78L05
    @ $0.45 = $0.45

   3 Diode 1N914
   (1N914) @ $0.15 = $0.45

   3 Transistor 2N3904
    @ $0.25 = $0.75

   1 Jack, 1/4 in. Mono Switchcraft #11
   (#11) @ $1.85 = $1.85

   1 Jack, 1/4 in. Stereo Switchcraft #12B
   (#12B) @ $1.89 = $1.89

   1 Box - Taiwanese 'BB' Size
   (Taiwanese BB) @ $7.95 = $7.95

   1 Switch - Carling 316-B-PP
   (316-B-PP) @ $8.95 = $8.95

   2 9-Volt Battery Snap, Hard Shell
   (Hard Shell Snap) @ $0.45 = $0.90

   1 Switch - Taiwan Blue 3PDT Momentary
   (3PDT Momentary) @ $8.50 = $8.50

   1 Jack, DC Power, 2.1 mm All-Plastic, Round
   (All-plastic Round) @ $1.25 = $1.25

PS.. I can post photos of anything if needed, or you if you think it would help..

[SonicVI]

Looking at your voltages it looks like you at least have a short between your V+ and ground.  Pin 4 of the 4558, pins 4,6,7,8,& 10 of the 4013, and the emitters of all three transistors, for example should be grounded and read 0V .    It would be helpful if you could post some good photos of both sides of the circuit board.

[Fender3D]

Did you connect the ground from jacks to PCB?
There's no 0V anywhere in your readings...

[hypnoraygun]

First off Thank you so much for replying! Everyone's help is greatly appreciated. I'm in over my head a bit and I realize that.

I took a lot of photos there are all here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hypnoraygun/sets/72157627539855276/detail/

Here are a few of them. In the first one you can see the over all board and wires. The black battery snap wire is not attached due to making the battery overheat. I attached it to the ring and the ground on the input jack and it would make the battery super hot. There are more close up views of everything on flickr.


DSC_0261 by Hypno+Raygun, on Flickr


DSC_0253 by Hypno+Raygun, on Flickr


Front of Board by Hypno+Raygun, on Flickr


DSC_0263 by Hypno+Raygun, on Flickr

This is the input Jack...

DSC_0259 by Hypno+Raygun, on Flickr

[hypnoraygun]

Did you connect the ground from jacks to PCB?
There's no 0V anywhere in your readings...

Only one wire going to the ground of the PCB...From the Input jack ground to the ground of the PCB. Did I answer your question? ?

[Fender3D]

Only one wire going to the ground of the PCB...From the Input jack ground to the ground of the PCB. Did I answer your question? ?

ok
then where did you hook your DMM's when measuring?
You should have 0V somewhere, at least IC1 pin 4, and IC2 pin 7, as well at Qs' emitters.

[SonicVI]

Overheating battery means you have V+ and ground shorted somewhere.  Look over all of your solder joints on the pcb and make sure none are accidentally connected. Use a magnifying lens if you need to.

[hypnoraygun]

Only one wire going to the ground of the PCB...From the Input jack ground to the ground of the PCB. Did I answer your question? ?

ok
then where did you hook your DMM's when measuring?
You should have 0V somewhere, at least IC1 pin 4, and IC2 pin 7, as well at Qs' emitters.

I put the negative on the negative terminal of the battery, and then use the red probe to touch the pins. ?

[hypnoraygun]

Overheating battery means you have V+ and ground shorted somewhere.  Look over all of your solder joints on the pcb and make sure none are accidentally connected. Use a magnifying lens if you need to.

Thanks for the tip.. I have a mondo magnifier.. I don't see any points, but there is a slight residue..? (not silver in color, but brown).. Maybe that could do it? I'm going to do some more looking..

[Fender3D]

I put the negative on the negative terminal of the battery, and then use the red probe to touch the pins. ?

Sorry man, but the neg. battery terminal is not connected!
How are you feeding power supply?
By adapter (battery warms up)?

Then hook your probe to adapter jack negative terminal, and make some measurements.

Since you seem (are?) unsure which connection goes where (your first post), try and connect jack sockets straight to PCB, without switches or switchings, and check your signal path

[hypnoraygun]

I put the negative on the negative terminal of the battery, and then use the red probe to touch the pins. ?

Sorry man, but the neg. battery terminal is not connected!
How are you feeding power supply?
By adapter (battery warms up)?

Then hook your probe to adapter jack negative terminal, and make some measurements.

Since you seem (are?) unsure which connection goes where (your first post), try and connect jack sockets straight to PCB, without switches or switchings, and check your signal path

I have no idea.. ? I had it connected to the battery. I have no idea why it was working without the black wire attached to anything..? I then took off the battery clip and the AC? or DC plug  in piece and wired the battery clips directly into the PCB as suggested. The red wire to the 9v and the black to the ground. Now I get audio from both selections of the PDT, but one is a lot quieter than the other and there is still no effect.

The Drawing and the board differ on the R20 Spot. On the drawing it says 1 -2 - 3, and the board says 3 - 2 - 1. I tried looking at the schematic and it looks like it is supposed to be wired 3, 2 1...?

Also, when wiring the battery clip, When it says to put on on the Input jack Ring.. What specifically is that? It seems that is why I keep getting a short...? Isn't the black wire from the battery snap and the Grounds (from the project) supposed to be wired in two separate (non touching) areas?

I see what you mean about wiring directly to the board without switches. I thought you meant the battery snaps(which I did..) .. I will try wiring directly next..

We are getting closer, but I still feel far away.. Thank you again for the help.

[oskar]

Isn't the black wire from the battery snap and the Grounds (from the project) supposed to be wired in two separate (non touching) areas?

Yes, they are supposed to not touch eachother.
Read this --> http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/