3PDT 'Jumpers'

[Steve Mavronis]

Just curious why everyone uses metal jumper leads for the bypass connection on a 3PDT instead of regular insulated wires? I've done the same just immitating what everyone else does. Is there any advantage/disadvantage for doing it either way or just asthetics for looks?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I use the left-overs from snipped resistor leads.

Easy, free, and works like a champ!! 

[Steve Mavronis]

Me too but why metal leads over insulated wiring when the rest of the pedal is wired that way?

[theundeadelvis]

I use bare metal;  
1. because I always have the leftover leads snipped off of components
2. because to use insulated wire, it usually has to left a little longer (which looks less tidy in my opinion) and if you're not using teflon or some heat resistant wire, the insulation usually melts and starts to come off on such a short piece anyway (or for me it does at least).

[aion]

With that short of a span, there's no more chance of something shorting against the bare wire than there is of something shorting against the switch lugs themselves. Same reason most PCB jumpers are uninsulated. Plastic insulation doesn't have any inherent electrical benefit except for isolation.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Me too but why metal leads over insulated wiring when the rest of the pedal is wired that way?

It is often (not always) the only place in my builds where I use it. I use it because it is such a short distance to cover (lugs of the 3PDT) and there is nothing in the way that may make contact.

I have seen where people use bare metal runs for their ENTIRE ground plane on builds. I suppose this does not create problems however, I prefer to err on the cautious side and use insulated wire for 99% of my connections.

[Steve Mavronis]

Cool, makes sense.

[CynicalMan]

Also, it's a pain in the fingernails to strip one of those tiny little wires unless you're lucky enough to have a thermal wire stripper.

[harmonic]

I tend to strip off a little extra from the lead running in and thread it through, solder it, slide on either a short bit of insulation or shrink (or sometimes nothing), then through to the other lug and solder that.

I just re-read that and it doesn't read very clearly. Hopefully you get my meaning. :-) Here's a piccie to demo what I'm on about:



No little jumper to worry about. Nice.

[deadastronaut]

Also, it's a pain in the fingernails to strip one of those tiny little wires unless you're lucky enough to have a thermal wire stripper.

i use a lighter and my nails to strip all my wires....

on the 3pdt bit: i use pink insulation , just to annoy fernando...

[skrunk]

Also, it's a pain in the fingernails to strip one of those tiny little wires unless you're lucky enough to have a thermal wire stripper.

i use a lighter and my nails to strip all my wires....

on the 3pdt bit: i use pink insulation , just to annoy fernando...

lol I use a small nail clippers to strip my wires.
lately I've been using a 0 ohm resistor across the bottom corner lugs just to be fancy.

[kurtlives]

Why insulate it?

[Steve Mavronis]

Why insulate it?

Well if you use the 'symmetrical' wiring pattern with the bypass wire looping between the bottom corner lugs, the 9V battery case next to the 3PDT body might come into contact if it sticks out too far.

[Seven64]

i use a 0 ohm resistor.

[Steve Mavronis]

i use a 0 ohm resistor.

Assuming that's your PCB input wire attached to the top left lug, add an extra wire from there to the bottom middle lug to insure pop-free action when you switch.