Ludwig Phase II final (mostly, I hope) toner transfer, BOM, instructions at Geo

[R.G.]

I did a complete re-layout of the Ludwig, based on Keppy's heroic wiring efforts to get the original PCBs to work. His photos convinced me that most people would not perservere as he did. He also had an inspired physical layout for the controls in a 1590D. So I converted the originals to the new version which were intended to cut the sheer number of wires down.

What is there now is a controls/console board with all controls, LEDs and switches on the PCB with the exception of the stomp switches. This cuts down the number of wires to be cut and stripped hugely. I also include a detailed wiring diagram which Keppy didn't have, and a cross sectional sketch of how it all works in the box, as well as hold drilling guide, a box drilling guide for the controls, toner transfer, BOM, snid... er, humorous comments on various aspects of the build process, and so on.

It's there. I think it's correct. There's almost certainly something I missed on a project with over 30 transistors, six pots, six toggle switches, ten LEDs, and four stomp switches spread over two PCBs. But since it's been built once before and checked over several times, maybe we'll get lucky.

So - step right up. Who'll go first? Oh, wait. Someone already was first. Who's second?

I Don't Know's on third.

[JOHNO]

Thanks alot Mr Keen.

[digi2t]

R.G....

WOW!!!

Other than someone showing up at my doorstep, with parts and a soldering iron in hand, it can't get much better than that.

We are not worthy!

Many sincere thanks,
Dino

[pinkjimiphoton]

rg does stand for resident genius, doesn't it?

rg...you are the man, my friend...it's been an honor working with you on this, and i can't wait to look at the project. thank you a gazillion times for making a long-standing dream of mine come true.

[Greenmachine]

Appreciate all your work for us RG.  That's a big project and must have taken a lot of time to put together.  Thanks to others involved too!

[R.G.]

For my part, you're welcome. I had a good time doing it. It could not have happened period without Jimi, Dino and Keppy.

[R.G.]

First bug report: I mistyped the type number for Q6, the emitter follower voltage regulator. The TIP142 will work, but will cost more than necessary. TIP112 is what I meant to type, and what was used in the first working prototype.

On the other hand, this made me go look for others. It turns out that BD677A/BD679A/BD681A are probably even better. They're available from Mouser, have the same pinout, and cost $0.30 to $0.50.

Updating parts list.

[Ry]

Thanks to all involved!  I need to get some time on my hands and clear a few projects off the bench...this is honestly a dream come true!!!

[cthulhudarren]

I read the article. You do great work, RG.

[R.G.]

Thanks! I hope we get a lot of people who can revive this thing.

I do have a request for any builders. I have touched the PCB files since the first prototype worked. I think these corrections helped, but through long experience, I know that every time you touch a PCB, there is some chance for side effects causing another error. So would anyone who's planning to have a go at this send me a PM either before starting the project if you want as-you-go help, or afterwards if it just worked. Well, maybe more so if it didn't.    I'd like to follow the first couple of builds closely if you don't mind. Er, I mean, I'd like to provide as much tech support as necessary for the first builds. Yeah. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. 

Once we have it proven, I won't feel quite as much like I have to nursemaid the builds. I'm a little more tentative about this one because unlike most things I put out for public consumption, I don't fully understand how the thing works in detail. Parts of it, yes, but the internal filter operations are still not clear to me. I felt like I'd ducked a bullet when Keppy's filters just worked. 

[Ry]

I for one am planning on etching a board this weekend (carefully drilling it may take a little while).  I'm short a few of the exact parts, so an order with mouser will need to be placed.  I hope to have something put together and wired up by the end of the month if all goes well and my Fender Electric XII replica project doesn't steal too much of my attention  .

[Morocotopo]

Excuse me, who´s on third?

Used to watch reruns on saturday morning in my (very very distant) childhood. B&W TV. Also The Pink Panther, that I didn´t realize why it was called that ´till color TV arrived at my country...

Great contribution, R.G.

[Ry]

I got the pnp printed and transferred to boards.  My only comment thus far is that the traces are a little close together on the edges of the Console Board.  I know the traces are packed together so that this thing will fit into a commonly available box, but I had to rework a few of the traces with an exacto knife and sharpie before I start to etch.  I'm pretty sure I caught everything, as I'm taking my time, but bridged traces may become a common issue when debugging issues come up. 

This issue could also be due to poor ironing of the pnp to pc board on my part.  I've made quite a few boards over the years, but it's been a while and this is by far the biggest one I've tried.

More details to follow as I slowly build this up.

Ry

[R.G.]

I got the pnp printed and transferred to boards.  My only comment thus far is that the traces are a little close together on the edges of the Console Board.  I know the traces are packed together so that this thing will fit into a commonly available box, but I had to rework a few of the traces with an exacto knife and sharpie before I start to etch.  I'm pretty sure I caught everything, as I'm taking my time, but bridged traces may become a common issue when debugging issues come up. 

If you can, let me know where you had problems and I can see if I can spread them out a bit in the trouble areas.

[Ry]

Looking at the layout as it's posted, the farthest right most vertical traces at the edge of the board (where there are 4 or 5 running in parallel). The same type of issue happened on the far left edge of the board as well, where there are also a few closely spaced parallel traces.

Like I say, it could be my poor technique this time around making boards. The fall plate turned out pretty nicely.

[R.G.]

Just to be sure, these are the latest versions of the boards, with the switches and pots on the console PCB, right?

[Ry]

Yes, this is the latest version.

[R.G.]

OK, I see where that is.

It is tight there. I think I may make an alternate version with a couple of the traces pulled out and wire jumpers used to get more space. A quick perusal of the board doesn't show any straightforward way to move those traces and keep them on the PCB. The left side might be OK. I'll look and post back when I get something.