How fill a mn3007 in a mxr flanger clone!? Noob inside

[Fender3D]

Only U5 will oscillate (LFO), other IC are just filters or buffers.
1458 (4558 either) is a "stupider" op amp than 0x2 series ... it will oscillate for sure and should be cheaper...
you may use  5532 or 072 for filter (lesser noise).
hook an LED + 4k resistor from U5's pin 1 or 7 and GND to check LFO (speed LED)

[Thomeeque]

I used Tomas MN3007 daughterboard as is, hooked up just as he mentions above- sounds great   

Nice, thanks!

  Takes a little fiddling with the timing cap (C21 on the vintage schem), though- I wound up with a nominal 22pF.  Even then it takes some careful trim adjustments to eliminate a "bouncy" sound on the bottom of the sweep- but this might be true of SAD versions as well...

Probably yes.. even I'd have to at least hear it to be able to understand what's going on.. post sample if you want to elaborate it more..

Cheers, T.

[slash_83]

I ve checked it!!!
I think is ok

It lamps more quickly as i turned cw speed pot, but i ve noticed that a500k pot is not so good.. There is not excursion to' calibrate speed very well!

[jdub]

I used Tomas MN3007 daughterboard as is, hooked up just as he mentions above- sounds great   

Nice, thanks!

  Takes a little fiddling with the timing cap (C21 on the vintage schem), though- I wound up with a nominal 22pF.  Even then it takes some careful trim adjustments to eliminate a "bouncy" sound on the bottom of the sweep- but this might be true of SAD versions as well...

Probably yes.. even I'd have to at least hear it to be able to understand what's going on.. post sample if you want to elaborate it more..

Cheers, T.

Actually, Tomas, thank you for the excellent daughterboard layout    Beautiful work.  Also, the "rubbery" sweep thing on the MXR is discussed here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78741.0.  Apparently, this is common when the controls are maxxed out (especially regen and manual) and not specific to a 3007 retrofit. 

[slash_83]

Only U5 will oscillate (LFO), other IC are just filters or buffers.
1458 (4558 either) is a "stupider" op amp than 0x2 series ... it will oscillate for sure and should be cheaper...
you may use  5532 or 072 for filter (lesser noise).
hook an LED + 4k resistor from U5's pin 1 or 7 and GND to check LFO (speed LED)

I ve checked it!!!
I think is ok

It lamps more quickly as i turned cw speed pot, but i ve noticed that a500k pot is not so good.. There is not excursion to' calibrate speed very well!

Any suggestion?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

It lamps more quickly as i turned cw speed pot, but i ve noticed that a500k pot is not so good.. There is not excursion to' calibrate speed very well!

Any suggestion?

Sure!

Use the 500K "C" pot that is called for in the schematics. This would be a Reverse Log or Anti-log pot. That is what is used in the original flanger builds.

Good Luck 

[Fender3D]

Only U5 will oscillate (LFO), other IC are just filters or buffers.
1458 (4558 either) is a "stupider" op amp than 0x2 series ... it will oscillate for sure and should be cheaper...
you may use  5532 or 072 for filter (lesser noise).
hook an LED + 4k resistor from U5's pin 1 or 7 and GND to check LFO (speed LED)

Any suggestion?

I talked about op amps 'cause a 5532 won't work as LFO instead of 1458

[slash_83]

Only U5 will oscillate (LFO), other IC are just filters or buffers.
1458 (4558 either) is a "stupider" op amp than 0x2 series ... it will oscillate for sure and should be cheaper...
you may use  5532 or 072 for filter (lesser noise).
hook an LED + 4k resistor from U5's pin 1 or 7 and GND to check LFO (speed LED)

Any suggestion?

I talked about op amps 'cause a 5532 won't work as LFO instead of 1458

I ve used 4 tl082!

It lamps more quickly as i turned cw speed pot, but i ve noticed that a500k pot is not so good.. There is not excursion to' calibrate speed very well!

Any suggestion?

Sure!

Use the 500K "C" pot that is called for in the schematics. This would be a Reverse Log or Anti-log pot. That is what is used in the original flanger builds.

Good Luck 

thank you!!

[slash_83]

Nothing to' do


Flanger doesnt work

I ve mounted mn3007 and nothing changes, sound exit from mxr without any effect


Pots don t do anything...

Mn3007 voltages Are

1 14.83
2 14.83
3 7.15
4  1.02
5 0
6 7,16
7 10,30
8 10.30


I ve re take them with 4049

Mn3007

14.84
14.84
1,68
1
0
6,43
9,86
9.84

4049

14,95
7,45
7.40
7.40
7.50
7.40
7.50
0
7.40
14,83
0
7,40
7,45
6,90

[Fender3D]

Voltage @ pin 2 (also @ pin 6) should be ~1/2Vcc, better check it with a scope or freq. meter looking for a square wave (~32KHz-~1MHz). You must have an issue somewhere betweem 4049 and MN 'cause voltage at pin 2 should be the same as at 4049's pin 10 AND 12

[slash_83]

Voltage @ pin 2 (also @ pin 6) should be ~1/2Vcc, better check it with a scope or freq. meter looking for a square wave (~32KHz-~1MHz). You must have an issue somewhere betweem 4049 and MN 'cause voltage at pin 2 should be the same as at 4049's pin 10 AND 12

I dont understand... I ve rechecked...

And i found different voltages

Now pin 2 is ok...same voltage as pin 11&12 of 4049!

I ve noticedthat mn3007 become a little hot...


My sensation is that problem is somewhere in the original board,because i ve the same problem when i used sad1024.

No effect...signal go throught effect but without modifications,pots doesnt work, if i swap some opamp nothing happens...

[slash_83]

Only if i remove ic4 ( left- down ic) sound doesnt come out effect...i can play without ic1 ic2 ic3 ( 4013)ic5 and is the sane thing... Normal sound without effect!

[slash_83]

I hate this flanger.. I m not able to' make work this pedal... Never

[Fender3D]

ok
it will work (it must).
Sadly it's just scope time...
try this without daughter board

You must have:
clock at 4013's pins 1 and 2 it will look weird if you have not your pots @ 0 (CCW).
Apply any kind of signal and check it at A1's pin 2 (it won't be the same, depending on freq. ) No signal means U2 dead(you said you have signal @ out).
Apply signal at A1's pin 11 or 12. Check it at U1's pin 1 and pin 7 (no signal means either U1 dead, or trim level at GND  ).
Connect db.
Clock @ MN's pin 2 and 6.
Apply signal at input and check it at MN's pins 3 then 7-8. check for signal at db out. (You may have or not have signal depending on bias)

This assumes you have no shorts or bad solders around. If you have bad joints then smoke'em yourself 

[slash_83]

ok
it will work (it must).
Sadly it's just scope time...
try this without daughter board

You must have:
clock at 4013's pins 1 and 2 it will look weird if you have not your pots @ 0 (CCW).
Apply any kind of signal and check it at A1's pin 2 (it won't be the same, depending on freq. ) No signal means U2 dead(you said you have signal @ out).
Apply signal at A1's pin 11 or 12. Check it at U1's pin 1 and pin 7 (no signal means either U1 dead, or trim level at GND  ).
Connect db.
Clock @ MN's pin 2 and 6.
Apply signal at input and check it at MN's pins 3 then 7-8. check for signal at db out. (You may have or not have signal depending on bias)

This assumes you have no shorts or bad solders around. If you have bad joints then smoke'em yourself 

Thank u Fender...pm i ll try as u said,


A few minutes ago i was trying to' use a probe starting from out pin and going back to' circuit.

Well, i ve noticedthat after r41 i hve no more sound...but the strange thing is this:

If i touch with my hand pin2 of ic4,  and with one probe i touch other parts of circuit, i hear scretch from amp.

For example,if i touch pin 8 of bbd usually i ve no sound, but if i touch pin 2 of ic4 i hear sound..
Im sorry for my explanation ..i hope you can understand

[Fender3D]

hmm
MXR is a double face board...
maybe any up-down side connection is weak or worse

[slash_83]

From pin 1. 2 of 4013 i ve about 7v  ill check op amp tomorrow

[Fender3D]

You should check for a proper clock there, not just a voltage

[Govmnt_Lacky]

From pin 1. 2 of 4013 i ve about 7v  ill check op amp tomorrow

Correct me if I am wrong BUT, if this is an MXR Flanger and you are measuring the clock output from the 4013, shouldn't it be closer to 15V on the output? I know the clock pulse that runs to the original SAD chip is supposed to be at Vdd (15V).

If you are getting 7V at the clock output from the 4013... and you are using an M117 flanger.... that is a problem 

[Fender3D]

yep but you do have a 50% duty cycle, then ~1/2Vcc