Wylde Vero question

Started by cgibsong002, September 16, 2011, 02:35:30 PM

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Govmnt_Lacky

Missing  :P

Need to find a way to install it between +9V and GND.
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Govmnt_Lacky

A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
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cgibsong002

Thanks again. Just a few more questions so I can finish this up. The red connecting line on the far right by the tone... is that a jumper? Or does the red signify each of those traces should be getting 9v? How does the Vol pot work with only one terminal hooked up? Other 2 grounded? Where is output? Also, someone mentioned another diode should be added in series to make this vero exact. Any clue how I could fit that in?

And then a really noob question here... but I got a trimpot to use instead of 20K tone. How are trimpot terminals positioned? 1,2,3 looking at the front adjustable side? Got one like this... http://www.sdr-cube.com/construction/pics/Controls/Inventory/trimpot.JPG


sorry... had more questions than I thought  :icon_redface:

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: cgibsong002 on September 16, 2011, 03:18:39 PM
The red connecting line on the far right by the tone... is that a jumper? Or does the red signify each of those traces should be getting 9v?

Its a jumper.

Quote
How does the Vol pot work with only one terminal hooked up? Other 2 grounded? Where is output?

Lug 3 is wired as shown. Lug 1 is wired to ground. Lug 2 (middle lug) is where you get your output.

Quote
Also, someone mentioned another diode should be added in series to make this vero exact. Any clue how I could fit that in?

Sure, pick one of the diodes and instead of putting that 1 diode there, solder two diodes together... end to end... and install them in it's place. If you have a question, google the schematic for this circuit.

Quote
And then a really noob question here... but I got a trimpot to use instead of 20K tone. How are trimpot terminals positioned? 1,2,3 looking at the front adjustable side?

All trimpots are linear (B curve) and I believe this circuit needs more of a TS style curve pot (W taper). Either way, you can easily look up the part number from the trimpot... find the datasheet... and get the numbering yourself.

Just remember.... Google is your friend (as well as the Search function at the top of the forum.)

Good Luck  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

cgibsong002

Ok... got it all wired up. And here's a new one for me. Plugged into my one spot power supply, the LED as well as all others that are hooked up to the One Spot start strobing, i.e. they all start flashing rather than just staying lit up. So any ideas what would cause this? I would think it'd be a cap causing that but I can't see why or what might be wrong.

cgibsong002

Fixed that issue and got the pedal working somewhat. So I initially had my MC33178P opamp in backwards (idiot!) and fried it. It was the only one I had. Also had a case of NE5532AP's laying around, so I popped one in and we have a fully working pedal. However, gain and volume is just not what I remembered from my real zw-44. It sounds really good and gives it just a very subtle gain increase. But not what it should be. Does it sound like this is because of the wrong op amp being in? I'm not familiar enough with different opamps to know how they would effect the circuit in this way. the MC33178P is described as high output current low power, low noise... whereas the 5532ap that I have in now is just listed as low noise dual opamp.... so I'm going to assume that's my problem. Just hoping someone could confirm before I go online and order a new one.

stringsthings

#8
Quote from: cgibsong002 on September 17, 2011, 05:52:43 PM
... Fixed that issue and got the pedal working somewhat.....

Also had a case of NE5532AP's laying around, so I popped one in and we have a fully working pedal. However, gain and volume is just not what I remembered from my real zw-44. It sounds really good and gives it just a very subtle gain increase. But not what it should be. Does it sound like this is because of the wrong op amp being in? ....

in the circuit, the 5532 could sound different than the MC33178P .... however, what you're hearing could also be due to differences in other components .... such as the trimpot vs. standard potentiometer in the tone stage ... or the particular diodes in the first op-amp stage ...

for more volume, you could jumper R1 ( 4.7k ) ... or raise the value of VR1 ...

tip for the future: if your circuit calls for one unique component ( such as an op-amp, transistor, etc .. ),and you don't have one in stock, always order a spare .... you'll never regret the extra cost ... ( and you'll probably find a use for the spare somewhere down the line )