I think I fried something!!! can some one assist to where start looking!!!

[njkmonty]

I had just completed my ada mn3007 moosapotomus clone, was very happy with it, then i put it in an enclosure worked great.
then i noticed i had a few small leads of wire fell into the board. I thought i got them all but it wasnt working, anyway, few minutes later noticed a lead was connecting 2 legs of the 15v regulator (15v and ground!), quickly removed it and was sure any other "off cuts" where gone, turned it on still works, although now a slight buzz/distortion sound on the low E notes if hit hard, and more noticeable on higher output humbucker guitar. what to do!!!

ive replaced the regulator, and swapped all ics should i replace electrolytics.?
i love this pedal heaps, and would go and buy another board, but ive checked everything and nothing else seems to be visuably wrong
any suggestions?

[R.G.]

As Mother Nature is whispering in your ear, "visually wrong" doesn't count.   

Go read and follow "what to do when it doesn't work".

[njkmonty]

ive already found this: (see below )


"   Reverse voltage survival is different. If the pedal has no polarity protection, reverse polarity is a death sentence for every IC on the board. This happens in milliseconds to a few seconds. Longer reverses will kill all of the electrolytics. Often the diodes and transistors will survive this. Sometimes they will be damaged, often not. Ordinary R's and C's usually survive. If the pedal has polarity protection, everything depends on what kind and how good the protection is. The common reversed-diode protection is really only good for short periods of reverse connection to a battery or adapter. If you leave a reverse-diode protection pedal connected to a strong battery or AC adapter for a long time, it will eventually burn out the diode or other protection parts. Then you have no protection, and you're back to the first situation above, replacing ICs and electrolytics. "

I noticed no change after replacing all ic's

I know that i haven't accidentally supplied ac to circuit, so i can rule out those debugging steps, so i assume Ive got reverse polarity issues. . My guess this occurred for a period of 30 sec to 1 minute.
Does an electrolytic which capacitance is measured in correct value, indicate it is still good?
Eg I measured on board a 470uf cap, which measured close to that. Does that indicate its ok?
or can you still have a damaged capacitor which still  measures as if its good?
I am waiting for a new solder sucker to arrive before replacing parts,

so replace all electrolytics, then diodes while im there?
   

[PRR]

As RG said: 'Go read and follow "what to do when it doesn't work".'

Before blindly sucking all the solder, poke some voltages and see what isn't right.

-OR- if you must mess with hot metal, go ahead and get another board and the parts. It is less work to build than to re-build. THEN run then side-by-side and compare voltage at the same point on each board. (I am guessing that a full voltage-chart is not available?) This may lead quickly to the problem, and then you have a spare pedal.