'SPITFIRE' Metal 'n' Blues Pedal...

[Dysfunction]

Rob :

almost finished the V3 layout , but looking at the PDF , i cant find where the 9v + input is going into the board.
could you tell me where it links in?

and if so is there any possible way i could use LEDs to show which mode it is on?

Cheers,
Dys

[psychedelicfish]

+9V will be the square pad 2nd from the right at the top, or the top left pad. By mode do you mean bypassed, or modern/classic? If you mean bypassed, wire it as shown here:

You have extra pads on the PCB for ground (2nd from bottom on the right) and +9V, which are probably intended for an LED indicator.
If you mean Modern/Classic,  you'll need a DPDT switch instead of the SPDT in the layout. Then you just wire the extra pole like the three leftmost pads in the 3PDT in the diagram above.

[psychedelicfish]

Thanks for asking that question, by the way, it gave me a cool idea!

[Dysfunction]

Thanks for asking that question, by the way, it gave me a cool idea!

thanks psychedelicfish ,

thanks for the diagram , and yeah was asking about having 2 LEDs for the modern/classic function.
just an LED top and bottom of the switch , so you can visually see what mode you are in.

Cheers,
Dys

[psychedelicfish]

my idea was to combine both, using a bi-colour LED, which is switched on and off by the bypass switch, and has its colour changed by the modern/classic switch 

[deadastronaut]

^ indeed or...

To switch modes and leds at the same time as modes use a dpdt

/....led+.....led to ground


/......4.7k.....9v


/....led+....led to ground


use other half of switch for modes...



or

/...led ground.......+...../.
                              /
                              /
/......ground.             /.........4.7k......9v.
                              /
                              /
/...led ground......+....../



tip: socket those mode caps to taste.

[deadastronaut]

WTF?...what a c...

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=364780470280925&set=a.105688826190092.10501.100002469256623&type=1&theater

cheers jim/tiro...for bringing this to my attention,  on ALL my layouts i specify ''do not post to other sites''  '' not for commercial use''

but what can you do eh?...nothing, once its out there your pretty much f......d eh.....hmmmmm...shame some people act like assholes, and don't respect others work...

i wonder why he added ''spitfire' on the description though..weird.

makes me re-think about posting other stuff now though, which is a shame as this is what a DIY forum is all about imo.......hmmmm....

[deadastronaut]

reported to FB for intellectual rights and copyright breach. 

for a laugh...plus a little bit of satisfaction.

but really, if its 'out there'' in web world its out there...thats the way it is really....

anyway, i wont be put off from posting stuff up still...that's just my ethos....so screw him.

[Lurco]

did he find C2? http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94608.msg878002#msg878002
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=4900

[deadastronaut]

lol....the elusive C2 mystery...

[stallik]

And while this all goes on....

[deadastronaut]

And while this all goes on....

yep...

@jim: yep too..

[deadastronaut]

thankyou battery acid......now lets put it to rest, and move on. thanks.

[The Tone God]

Hey Folks,

By request I removed most of the posts involving this copy cat situation. I tried to leave deadastronaut's own posts on the topic so everyone can know how he feels about it without other's thoughts getting in the way.

Let not get dragged down in drama, instead lets focus on building cool stuff.

BTW it is considered bad form to switch languages in mid topic. Please keep to English for this thread.

Your Tone God,

Andrew

[deadastronaut]

Cool. Cheers andrew. 

[psychedelicfish]

This reminds me... I finally finished my Spitfire a couple of weeks ago . It's my first actual build, but I've been breadboarding stuff and looking at schematics for about a year now so I know plenty about the circuitry side of things.

I'm having a problem with the tone control, I'm getting no or very little signal on the treble cut end of the tone control (it's acting a bit like a volume control and I have almost no low end). Any suggestions about fixing this are welcome, but I think I'll just keep trying to figure it out myself.

Anyway, thanks to Rob for a great distortion!

[deadastronaut]

hi edward, cool, glad you like it...

did you use my layout? in my gallery..if so it should be fine.

check your wiring around the tone pot / and caps select  switch...seems the most likely culprit.

btw, its a nice and easy circuit to breadboard and tinker with too..

[mthibeau]

I built a v3 today using Rob's PCB (thanks Rob).

It fired up first try, I love the sound of it. But I am having a few issues, and a few questions.

- It squeals like crazy with the Tone control (I used a b50k) if I turn it up past 1/4 turn, it's really, really bright too
- There is a lot of noise, enough that it is audible over the playing (more so than my Wampler Pinnacle, Dr Boogie, or Wampler Triple Wreck)
- When bypassed (not sending output to ground, just a straight bypass) it causes my Wampler Pinnacle further down the chain to whine, which I can tune with the *bypassed* Spitfire tone and gain knobs...

Question - Should the gain at zero kill the signal? I get nothing, then pretty mid gain, then full on metal within the first few degrees of pot rotation (probably due to my use of linear instead of log for that pot)

Build notes:
--- I didn't box it yet so I am sure some of that will clear up when it's in an enclosure.
--- I used a shielded wire grounded at one end for the input
--- I made no attempt to match the J201's (I could though, I have a hundred or so leftover from a big buy when they announced they were going out of production)
--- I ended up with 3.3n and 6.8 as C10 and C11 for the switch
--- I used a B1m for the gain, I plan to swap out for A1M

Thanks for such a cool sounding distortion, so far I am loving it tone wise (and if I can get rid of the extra noise, it's going to replace my Pinnacle, the gain is more natural and amp sounding).

[deadastronaut]

cool glad you got it ok.


you could drop the tone pot to 22k...makes the tone range better.  also you could raise the values of c14 /c15..from 2.2n to 4.7n etc.. (maybe socket them to taste.)

any squeel will go once boxed and with the  sheilded input. (mine is very quiet)

on my builds i take all grounds to the input jack, (tonepad wiring 5 layout)  i found this to be the best imo.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Question - Should the gain at zero kill the signal? I get nothing...

Is there a resistor to ground directly off the pot leg? If the pot is tied directly to ground on one of the legs then.... YES, your signal will mute when it is all the way down.