Rosin flux vs no-clean flux

[alparent]

OK my story....
I never used flux before.....got some flux paste on ebay (the thing is crap) so I said flux is not that wonderfull!
Then I made my own flus using pin sap......lot better but not wonderfull.
Then Mark Hammer gave me a little bottle of store bought rosin flux....TADA!!! Joy!!! But very sticky!

Now to me question what do you guys think of no-clean flux? Is it as wonderfull....or better?
Less sticky?

Any comments is appreciated.

[gtudoran]

OK my story....
I never used flux before.....got some flux paste on ebay (the thing is crap) so I said flux is not that wonderfull!
Then I made my own flus using pin sap......lot better but not wonderfull.
Then Mark Hammer gave me a little bottle of store bought rosin flux....TADA!!! Joy!!! But very sticky!

Now to me question what do you guys think of no-clean flux? Is it as wonderfull....or better?
Less sticky?

Any comments is appreciated.

I use RMA-223 flux for SMD/SMT parts and i've made my own flux with alchool and rosin (colofonium) ... works like a charm.


Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound

[alparent]

Thanks man.

I think my home made flux is to liquid.
The one Mark gave me is kinda syrupy. The one I made is like water.
The one Mark gave me smells like rubbing alcohol. I used denatureted alcohol to make mine (as per the instructionable).
But mine seems to evaporate too quick. (Maybe because it is to liquid?)

[familyortiz]

The No-Clean will evaporate quickly like that but it doesn't matter... it has corroded the surface which is the desired effect. I find that the RMA flux is stickier and wets a bit better than no clean, but doesn't result in a noticeably better joint, but I like to use it for heavy solder joints. The thing is, even with no clean, you should be cleaning the pca anyway, particularly for high gain or other sensitive circuits.

[DavenPaget]

The No-Clean will evaporate quickly like that but it doesn't matter... it has corroded the surface which is the desired effect. I find that the RMA flux is stickier and wets a bit better than no clean, but doesn't result in a noticeably better joint, but I like to use it for heavy solder joints. The thing is, even with no clean, you should be cleaning the pca anyway, particularly for high gain or other sensitive circuits.

o.o "corroded the surface" ? Aren't you supposed not to corrode a PCB ?

[familyortiz]

That's how flux works... it is slightly corrosive to remove surface oxidation, among other things.

[Mark Hammer]

Incidentally, you CAN thin out the traditional "sticky" liquid flux, with the same stuff you might use to remove the clumps of flux post-soldering, so that it is not quite to thick, and flows into tiny spaces (e.g.,  between strands of stranded wire) mroe readily.  I use methyl hydrate, but I suppose there are other substances that can be used too.

[StereoKills]

I prefer this water soluble flux. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8967
Wash your board under warm water when you're done soldering and it's squeaky clean!

[Galego]

I never used flux. Also never had any problems soldering anything. I'm not saying it's not useful, but because I've never used or seen anyone use it, I wonder what's the point.

[DavenPaget]

I never used flux. Also never had any problems soldering anything. I'm not saying it's not useful, but because I've never used or seen anyone use it, I wonder what's the point.

SMD . Or if your board is kinda oxidised .
In SMD , when soldering QFP-type packages , no solder is required , just apply flux and it will solder fine .

Wait guys , i'm kinda confused , what's the thing they pour across the pins with a needle , solder paste ? or flux ?

[Mark Hammer]

I never used flux. Also never had any problems soldering anything. I'm not saying it's not useful, but because I've never used or seen anyone use it, I wonder what's the point.

It's also possible to drive safely and live in a house for decades without having either automobile or house insurance...but one is leaning very heavily on strict adherence to good practice to stay out of trouble, and most of us aren't that strict.

Flux does help to speed up solder flow.  When I etc boards, the first thing I do when they're drilled is to smear the entire board with flux.  That lets me tin the whole thing quickly and efficiently, and a fully tinned board lets me know that every solder joint will be good, and that if I want to add anything to the board, perhaps on the solder side, or by popping a hole here or there for some added components, the board will be ready and willing to accept, rather than corroded everywhere between the pads.

I will also note that slow solder flow is the enemy of stompswitches.  Too much unnecessary heat buildup results in the grease inside the switch flowing and coating the contacts so that they don't make contact anymore.  A little bit of flux and some nicely-tinned wire and you can have a fully-functioning stompswitch every single time.

[alparent]

Actually you are using flux.....it's in the solder......

I never used liquid flux ether before Mark gave me some. Never needed it to solder.....that's true.
But now that I've used it...I use a lot less solder...don't need to relly on the flux in the solder.
My joints are much cleaner....specially with SMD.

I've build alots of stuff in my years with only solder and my Radio Shack iron......
But now that I'm venturing into SMD.....I need to up my game.

I'm getting a FX-888 soldering station....a couple of tips.....with the flux....should be good to go!

I've also listen alot these videos ....... they helped alot!
http://www.solder.net/technical/tips.asp

[DavenPaget]

Pssshhht ... what kind of SMD you think you can go far with a station ? Get a SMD rework station , those china ones are cheap and if you buy an ATTEN one , it lasts , unlike certain crummy brands ( not worth mentioning . )
And , avoid hakko SMD rework stations , they are ghastly over the line , not that they are overpriced .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-858D-858D-SMD-Hot-Air-Rework-Station-Solder-/220841989324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336b3554cc#ht_2991wt_966
Hakko FX888 ? Those Atten stations (digital) have the same sort of irons for slightly more you know ... 
I would get a Atten AT510D from Dealextreme if mine goes bust ( a 936 clone , FX-888's predecessor )
( I actually prefer a separate system , as i can't find any SMD rework + soldering station of free shipping , but anyway , if the motor goes bust , the whole system goes down)
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/at510d-1-5-led-100w-digital-soldering-station-ac-220v-107679

[waltk]

Flux helps with de-soldering too.  Some desoldering braids comes impregnated with flux.  The braid without flux doesn't work nearly as well.  I just unwrap and dip the whole roll of desoldering braid in (homemade) liquid rosin flux, and hang it up to dry.

[alparent]

Pssshhht ... what kind of SMD you think you can go far with a station ? Get a SMD rework station , those china ones are cheap and if you buy an ATTEN one , it lasts , unlike certain crummy brands ( not worth mentioning . )
And , avoid hakko SMD rework stations , they are ghastly over the line , not that they are overpriced .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATTEN-858D-858D-SMD-Hot-Air-Rework-Station-Solder-/220841989324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336b3554cc#ht_2991wt_966
Hakko FX888 ? Those Atten stations (digital) have the same sort of irons for slightly more you know ... 
I would get a Atten AT510D from Dealextreme if mine goes bust ( a 936 clone , FX-888's predecessor )
( I actually prefer a separate system , as i can't find any SMD rework + soldering station of free shipping , but anyway , if the motor goes bust , the whole system goes down)
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/at510d-1-5-led-100w-digital-soldering-station-ac-220v-107679

I'm in Canada....need some 120V stuff.....

[DavenPaget]

Right ... OFF TO SEARCH !  
EDIT: Here it is , had great reviews ,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-SMD-HOT-AIR-REWORK-SOLDERING-IRON-STATION-852D-/310315592931
Or this , because shining image doesn't ship to canada ,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atten-AT8586-2-1-SMD-Rework-Soldering-Station-Rework-Welding-Tools-/370564312385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56475aad41#ht_2857wt_1378

[G. Hoffman]

You don't need more than a basic station for SMD parts.  Go watch the third part of the EEVBlog soldering tutorial.  SMD is easy, though you do need some finer gauge solder, and some liquid flux.  You don't even need the special tip - I just use my normal 1/16" tip.


Gabriel

[DavenPaget]

You don't need more than a basic station for SMD parts.  Go watch the third part of the EEVBlog soldering tutorial.  SMD is easy, though you do need some finer gauge solder, and some liquid flux.  You don't even need the special tip - I just use my normal 1/16" tip.


Gabriel

Yes , but that's only basic
QFP ? TQFP ? BGA ?
If he wants a SMD station that can future proof all his SMD dabblings , why not ?

[G. Hoffman]

Yes , but that's only basic
QFP ? TQFP ? BGA ?
If he wants a SMD station that can future proof all his SMD dabblings , why not ?

QFP and TQFP are no problem.  BGA, I'll admit, would be pretty tough, but is seldom really required for any DIY projects.  QFN would also be a problem, but again, how often do you need it?


Gabriel

[DavenPaget]

If he wants to dabble in ARM , ATMega ( the larger more powerful editions )
This is strictly digital but at least that will secure him a good rework station . And it comes with a soldering station in it ! Why not ?