Ways to print on the case

[Musok]

Hi there,

New around DIY and the forum.
By the way, Joel "sendoushi" Santos, graphic and web designer that started to play guitar like a year or two ago.

Anyway, I'm finding out ways to get a print on the case.
The most obvious one, screen printing, which I use most of the times as a graphic designer but I don't have the equipment to do it nor the space to do it so... I'm trying to find other ways to get a print on the surface of the case. Not talking about fancy prints but simple black prints to know where the "gain" is for example.

[Earthscum]

Welcome to the forums. I screenprint my boxes, graphic designer as well. A lot of the people here have been using the waterslide decals. They look pretty nice, and with clearcoats they seem to hold up pretty good. I've also used CPM heat transfer material from The Magic Touch. Others have used the PnP Blue that Smallbear carries.
If you havent yet, take a mosey through the picture threads, alot of techniques discussed there, and some really awesome work.

[Musok]

Hi there, thanks for the solutions. I'll search out those systems. I already checked pictures yes. Awesome work around here.

[mirosol]

Don't know exactly how this guy does this, but he prints on the backside of plastic sheet. Looks good.
For example: http://www.musicgarage.fi/2011/08/28/bendrive/

For myself, i've tried waterslide, but it requires patience and steady hand. Freehand painting and transparent self-adhesive plastic sheets are the way for me at the moment.

I have also tried image transfer glue, but that doesn't give too neat outcome and requires pretty soft material to use on.

[Maik]

Decals or just photopaper. Now I use photopaper, 180gr.

[mirosol]

Maik: How do you use it?

Just curious, because this seems nice way to get good graphics on the boxes...

[arma61]

Hi

I do this way

- print graph, lables ecc, as many as possible, on 2 sheets standard A4 adhesive paper, either inkjet or laser, leaving about 2cm of blank margins
- pack the sheets together back to back
- laminating the sheets with a small home PVC laminator machines, costs about 20-30 euro
- cut the sheets through the margins, so the two sheets now can be splitted
- then I have the printed side plastic-coated and the back side still adhesive
- cut the lables/images and then stick them to the enclosure or anything else you need.

couple of examples





Ciao

[Musok]

Once again thanks for the replies. Armando, your idea seems pretty nice! Theoretically that will last long but... What can you say about that? The durability.

By the way, where do you buy the pedal cases in Europe?

[mirosol]

Gets a bit off topic, but musikding.de is good place for everything. Right prices and reasonable postage fees. Plus you can get waterslide decals and those self-adhesive sheets there also. Only in A6 size, but once again price is reasonable.

[Maik]

Hi Joel,

I print it out on that ultra glossy paper, 180g with an inkjet printer.
Cut it out.
Using a - @#$%, don´t know the english word for it - "Klebestift", mine is a strong one from UHU, but you can use a prit-pencil as long it´s a strong paperglue.
Getting it glued to the box.
Using a non-solvent enamel finish, a solventfinish will destroy your print (if it´s inkjet).
Spray it 4-5 times thin and than thicker, so that you can´t feel the paper anymore.
I use this when I need white.
If you don´t need white you can use waterslide decals for ceramic. You will need a laserprinter.
http://www.pearl.de/a-VM5726-2421.shtml?query=keramik
These are transparent. After they are dry again use a backoven to fix it on the box with 160 degreese for 30-40 min.
These decals are cool, I buy them from pearl.de. 25 Euro for 8 DIN A 4. Drilling after they are burn in.
Spray it 4-5 times thin and than thicker

[mirosol]

"Klebestift"

For those not familiar with german, Glue stick.

arma61's laminator trick is something i want to try out.

[arma61]

thanks m8s,

this is the one I use, easy.... no power needed

http://www.elmstok.co.uk/details.php?prodId=271

though it looks like it costs a little bit more than what I've said! (indeed I bought it for my wife she's a primary school teacher and uses it very often, so the cost was worth for both of us!

About durability....looks good, I mean, to be just a coat of PVC on a piece of paper... not bad, I've a couple of pedals sold to a band's guitarist since 1 year... never heard him complaing about!

@Joel, I buy enclosure from Banzai, musikding.de and from RS Components, a little bit pricey... but I have a shop close to my office so I save on shipping costs!!

CIao

[PRR]

> Using a -  @#$%, don´t know the english word for it - "Klebestift"

Google Translate:
"Klebestift" = "glue stick"
"Klebe stift" = "glue pen"

Google Translate sometimes comes up with VERY strange translations, but this one is good. As you know, long-words in German often break-up into short words; I broke Klebestift to Klebe stift to see if it still made sense. It does. The pen/stick difference is arbitrary... somehow "glue stick" became the customary english, but it is really a very-very fat pen with glue for "ink".

[Dumpster Diver]

I was going to go with the "vintage" silkscreen approach myself. it was a popular craft back in the 1970's for printing on tile.

I think it's a lot of effort, go for it if that's your thing. If you don't have your own printing workshop, check locally, you may find a studio somewhere for 25 bucks a day and use their facilites. be warned you may spend a few days depending on your particular needs. 

I mean, all you need is a black marker in your case, or even a label maker if you can get the labels stuck on right! 

but if you're going with custom lettering and Title and perhaps a small graphic or logo...I think true screen printing is the way I would go personally.

[Musok]

Awesome ideas. Thanks everyone.

Silk printing (and as a graphic designer) is really the best idea but still... expensive. At least with me being so newbie on this and not getting any money from it.
Photo paper seems kind of interesting but the laminated version from arma61 seems a really better tool compared.
Waterslide... I don't know... Seems better to me than heat transfer. Maybe i'll buy both give it some lacquer on top and check how it works.

Inititally I think i'll go with DYMO. It serves the purposes and since I don't i'm specially attracted by graphics on pedals...

[Earthscum]

I admit that I cheat and print my stuff at work, since its easier for me to just drop a graphic or PCB mask on a screen with other artwork.

For me to get set up at home, minus consumables, I spent about $150. That only gets me 2 roller frame screens, hinges, and squeegees. I'm gonna try and get set up the rest of the way for home printing, but I'm looking at easily another $150 for emulsion, blocking solution, and all the reclamation materials. Also, still have to make a wash tank and probably another $50 or more to make an exposure unit.  lol... I'm obviously not going the cheapest route. I'm also not going to be printing just pedals, though. I do a ton of other stuff using screenprinting.

You can get set up into a hobbyist kit for about $150 total, but (IMHO) you get what you pay for. You will probably only get a handful of decent prints out of it, wondering how anyone could make money doing this, lol... but, for hobby work, I guess it would be a tolerable situation. Honestly, after doing this at home compared to other methods, I'd go with the prints applied to the pedal, and etches.

[Musok]

What about etching guys?

[Earthscum]

What about etching guys?

Laser Printer, and Photo Paper or PnP Blue or (what I use because I get it cheap through work) Magic Touch CPM

Others have used magazine paper as well as other materials. The laser printers use a plastic that is statically adhered to the paper and heated up, just like powder coating an enclosure. All you are going to do is transfer that plastic image from the paper to the surface you want by using heat. Lacquer thinner works great for cleaning up after etching.

[seedlings]

Regarding etching- a continued question if you don't mind: If a sharpie marker were used to black out what you don't want etched, would that hold up long enough to get any depth of etch, or is plastic toner or blue PnP required?

Thank you,
CHAD

[deadastronaut]

@chad, ive used sharpie just to touch up tiny faults...and yeah it works, but will be grainy....

ive tried using a sharpie to hand draw tiny circuit just as an experiment, it works...but yep its grainy as hell...

now if there were a nail varnish pen..that would be good...

as a note, i usually tape down my pcbs while ironing, and have noticed that the 'sticky' left on the edge of the board will not etch off...hmmmm....