Ways to print on the case

[Maik]

now if there were a nail varnish pen..that would be good...

There is! Check out pencils from Edding. It´s a Edding 780.
Check:      http://www.tigerpens.co.uk/acatalog/Edding_780_Paint_Marker_Metal_Framed_Bullet_Tip.html

[seedlings]

I was asking about etching the enclosure, not the board  but I'm close to etching one or the other or both for the first time in the near future.

CHAD

[Maik]

It´s nearly the same, Chad. 

[Earthscum]

It´s nearly the same, Chad. 

+1

Ignore, for a moment, Copper vs. Aluminum, and your process is exactly the same.

There is ONE exception, though... Bring "Metal vs Metal" back into the equation: Aluminum will etch a LOT faster than Copper will. If you use 15 minutes to etch a copper board, then plan on about 2-3 minutes to get a good etch on aluminum, and 5 minutes if you want a really deep etch. If you search around for "frequencycentral", you should be able to find some info from Rick. He has a really great process down, dilutes the FeCl, whole 9 yards. Somewhere on these boards, he (within the last year, maybe?) laid down his process in a post. Or just send him a PM and ask him if he would be kind enough to take a look at this thread, I guess. lol.

[seedlings]

OK.  Aluminum faster than copper, check every 2-3 minutes... now to find some FeCl somewhere locally.

CHAD

[deadastronaut]

as always with boxes its all in the prep...sanding/designing/printing/cutting out/ ironing toner/masking...etching...sanding...painting...sanding...

box done....then drill.........then have a cup of tea......then..................................................................

[Maik]

Tea?
Rob

[deadastronaut]

hmmmm...

[Musok]

So many replies ehehe. I like the effect of etching. I have to see where i can get the solution to do it and buy those "papers" online.

[Pettol]

I make my own rub-ons, like this:

Preparations: obviously the box is sprayed with desired color and then I put a clear coat on (makes it easier to correct mistakes).

The rub-ons:
1.   Use a laserjet to print the reversed labels on a waxy paper. I use decal paper support sheets. The toner does not adhere very well (which is why this works) so don't touch the printout.
2.   Spray the printout lightly with clear coat. I use Montana Gold for this because it dries slowly, which gives me a decent time window for the subsequent transfer. Do not use Montana for the actual clear coat of the box as it has distinctive yellow tone!
3.   When the paint is sticky but not wet, apply the label on the box and rub it lightly with your nail. Remove the paper slowly from one end and if some parts were not transferred correctly, fold the paper back and rub some more.

Finishing: you want to protect your labels with a clear coat. Since the rub-ons will give a bit of structure apply one or two mist coats and let dry before the final clear coat.

I have found some versions of this using super77 (from 3M) and hairspray (!). I believe using clear coats is a bit better (and cheaper). I also recommend spraying the labels, not the box. It makes the transfer easier. And if you don't find the right time (in terms of "stickiness") the first time you can just throw the label away.

Sample:

[RandomGlitch]

Hi

I do this way

- print graph, lables ecc, as many as possible, on 2 sheets standard A4 adhesive paper, either inkjet or laser, leaving about 2cm of blank margins
- pack the sheets together back to back
- laminating the sheets with a small home PVC laminator machines, costs about 20-30 euro
- cut the sheets through the margins, so the two sheets now can be splitted
- then I have the printed side plastic-coated and the back side still adhesive
- cut the lables/images and then stick them to the enclosure or anything else you need.

I tried this out and it works brilliantly. I was going to clear coat it afterwards, but I think it's fine as it is.  Thanks for the idea arma61


By jparsons at 2012-09-01

[arma61]

Great job mate!!

Glad it also worked for you!

Indeed there's no need to cleat coat it, I usually clear coat only the sides, leaving just a little bit going on the top side, and the bottom.

Ciao

[meffcio]

By the 'standard adhesive paper' you guys mean a glossy one, or matte? Isn't it too thick? All the adhesive sheets I've ever seen were nearly as thick as a regular printer paper, so that combined with the thickness of laminating foil would be kinda fat, I think. Would you please tell me something more about that paper?

Also, the photo paper method intrigues me. I think I'll compare both methods someday, and show the results.

And another thought - did anybody try using a chalk paper? I have loads of it, since it's commonly used here to transfer PCB layouts. Great quality - I even tried printing some photos on such paper with nice results. (Isn't photo paper simply a kind of high quality chalk paper?)

Tell me, is it white printed on red paper, or is it simply a white paper covered with red ink?

[arma61]

By the 'standard adhesive paper' you guys mean a glossy one, or matte? Isn't it too thick? All the adhesive sheets I've ever seen were nearly as thick as a regular printer paper, so that combined with the thickness of laminating foil would be kinda fat, I think. Would you please tell me something more about that paper?

Also, the photo paper method intrigues me. I think I'll compare both methods someday, and show the results.

And another thought - did anybody try using a chalk paper? I have loads of it, since it's commonly used here to transfer PCB layouts. Great quality - I even tried printing some photos on such paper with nice results. (Isn't photo paper simply a kind of high quality chalk paper?)

Tell me, is it white printed on red paper, or is it simply a white paper covered with red ink?

Ciao

this is just standard white A4 paper but adhesive i've found on ebay. The thickness, after peeling the back, is just
like the normal A4. Then I've it printed in a shop with a color laser printer, then laminated. I can say that
paper + plastic is not too thick, i mean if you hang it with your finger at the corner it still bends down a bit.

That's how this SC-HB Booster is made.

Ciao

[garcho]

as a note, i usually tape down my pcbs while ironing...

Not to blow the thread off topic, but... (blow sound)
I have a massive Austrian cookbook from the 1960s that has a really rough and textured hard cover binding I use when ironing. It keeps the pcb in place without tape. I wonder what chemicals are in the glue on your tape that prevents etching? Could be the start of a new technique...   

I think John Lyons (and others, of course) has an elegant solution - print on (or etch) something easy to work with and attach it to the pedal as a face plate.

[RandomGlitch]

If only one could put enclosures directly through the printer!

[meffcio]

this is just standard white A4 paper but adhesive i've found on ebay. The thickness, after peeling the back, is just
like the normal A4. Then I've it printed in a shop with a color laser printer, then laminated. I can say that
paper + plastic is not too thick, i mean if you hang it with your finger at the corner it still bends down a bit.

Thanks

I think John Lyons (and others, of course) has an elegant solution - print on (or etch) something easy to work with and attach it to the pedal as a face plate.

I just had a thought. It's kind of stupid idea, and an overkill, but what about transfering image onto a thin polished steel plate (like transfering onto the PCB), then laminating it? You could simply attach it to the case without laminating, and just add couple layers of clearcoat. But sometimes clearcoat can destroy the transfer, and after you laminate the sheet, it can wait for applying to the case for a long time.

If only one could put enclosures directly through the printer!

I expect someone has already done similar thing somehow

[garcho]

Hopefully soon, we'll be able to print enclosures.

[artifus]

If only one could put enclosures directly through the printer!

I think John Lyons (and others, of course) has an elegant solution - print on (or etch) something easy to work with and attach it to the pedal as a face plate.

http://www.pabr.org/pcbprt/pcbprt.en.html

*also*

Hopefully soon, we'll be able to print enclosures.

how about guitars? http://www.odd.org.nz/spider.html

custom knobs might be more in most folks price range: Chicken Head shaped chicken head knob