Help! 9v connector shorts only on enclosure???

[Chaseth]

I am building a RM octavia from tonepad and everything works and is installed.  The only problem is that i get a short when my 9v goes into the enclosure hole.  Its funny cause bumping the leads of the 9v doesn't short it but when I touch the part that is supposed to go into my hole (i.e. the part that the nut tightens to) it shorts out and I lose all signal.  Its not a crackle and out but just goes dead with no noise.  What could be wrong?  Is it a bad 9v possibly?  Any fixes?  Thanks for any info!!

[R.G.]

You know what's going on - something shorts/opens at the hole into the enclosure. You have to find it and insulate it. This may mean getting insulating washers, or maybe even a plastic-bodied power jack. You're just going to have to find it.

As a question - are you sure the jack is wired properly?

And - does the jack have a metal bushing that goes through the hole? Or plastic?

[StereoKills]

 If it's a metal cased power jack, you'll need to swap it for a plastic one or insulate the one you have with heat shrink and nylon washers.

[Chaseth]

It has metal brushings (threads), Im pretty sure its wired correctly.  I'll try to isolate it but plastic washers wont work because of the metal threads would touch.  I'll see if a little plumbers tape or something can cure that.  If not I'll look at redoing it with a plastic jack.  Thanks for the help.

[LucifersTrip]

It has metal brushings (threads)

if the enclosure conducts, you need

[smallbearelec]

The only problem is that i get a short when my 9v goes into the enclosure hole.  Any fixes? 

An all-plastic power jack would be fine. Or if you want one with a metal bushing, try this one:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1216

It has a bushing that is long enough to get through a cast-aluminum housing and comes with insulating shoulder washers.

Regards
SD

[Chaseth]

So I went to radioshack today and they didn't carry a plastic power jack.  I decided to go home and try to figure something out.  I came up with a pretty good little thing I think.  I actually took a straw that was laying around and cut it and slipped it over the metal threads, thus preventing a ground connection and shorting my pedal out.  on the outside of the enclosure I found a little rubber gasket thing (looks like the mouthpiece on a balloon, which I imagine would work just as well) that I put up over the jack against the enclosure.  I then was able to tighten the nut down and keep that jack snug without creating a loop.  It worked great.  So the pedal is up and running and I even took it to a jam tonight and killed it with a band.  I never knew octavias had so much output!

[smallbearelec]

I actually took a straw that was laying around and cut it and slipped it over the metal threads, thus preventing a ground connection and shorting my pedal out.  on the outside of the enclosure I found a little rubber gasket thing (looks like the mouthpiece on a balloon

Good job! Effectively, you cobbled shoulder washers! FYI for other jobs, another way to do this kind of work-around is to enlarge the hole, back-fill with Bondo (auto-body filler), let harden and then sand down to a flat platform that can be drilled. Onward to more projects!

[Chaseth]

Thats a great Idea.  Where can you buy bondo?  Auto parts stores?

[R.G.]

Thats a great Idea.  Where can you buy bondo?  Auto parts stores?

At the risk of upsetting things, Mouser electronics stocks a plastic-bodied jack, number 163-4302-E, and it costs $1.51. They have over 25,000 of them in stock. As Steve notes, he has the insulating washers in stock, complete with jack as well.

A quart of Bondo will cost as much as that plus shipping, and the postman will deliver it to your door. There's not a screaming hurry, as you already have a cobbled together something running.

It's not a good idea to use makeshift things over the long haul, as they will fail at some point.

[smallbearelec]

At the risk of upsetting things...

Naaah...your knowledgable direction is only upsetting to the butt-headed.

To the OP:

I mentioned the use of Bondo only because it's one of those techniques that that you keep in your DIY arsenal for appropriate situations. Yes, auto body shops and hardware stores both stock it. But I agree that you really should buy an appropriate, purpose-designed part and install it. My SKU for the all-plastic version is 0611.

[Chaseth]

I totally agree with the last two posts.  I need to get a proper plastic jack in the mail, but I have noticed bondo being applied to several other quick fix operations.  Seems like a good thing to have around in a pinch. 

[LucifersTrip]

I need to get a proper plastic jack in the mail

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch.html

[R.G.]

I totally agree with the last two posts.  I need to get a proper plastic jack in the mail, but I have noticed bondo being applied to several other quick fix operations.  Seems like a good thing to have around in a pinch. 

I should also make clear that I am ALL in favor of doing something now and getting running while you (by which I mean "I") wait for the perfect parts to come. 

[Paul Marossy]

I had the metal DC jack shorting out on the metal enclosure problem on the first effect that I built. For a while I used the same metal DC jacks from RadioShack as my first project, but insulated them with electrical tape and non-conductive washers. Then I started using the plastic DC jacks later on. MUCH MUCH easier! Not to mention that the plastic ones are cheaper than RadioShack which charges you an arm and a leg. The only time I ever go to RadioShack is when I need something RIGHT NOW and I know they have it. Otherwise I can wait...