Zombie chorus with anti tick mod 1590b layout?..

[Dylananto]

Hi, I apologize if resurrected this topic because I have a doubt, following the pcb deadastronaut do not understand where to connect the LEDs, typically using a 2k2 resistance, but do not see it on the pcb, you must connect it to part with the resistance or c ' is possibility to connect it directly on the circuit?
Thank's

[deadastronaut]

wow that was a long time ago...

IIRC i just hooked it up via a resistor to the IC on the pcb yes...

however, it will blink, rather than pulse...

[Dylananto]

I'm buying all the components to build the pedal because I really like how it sounds (much like the Small Clone) and very intuitive as a project. What interests me is that the LED is on continuously, when the 9Volts attack to report that the pedal is on, I do not want to blink or pulse. It would be possible to know exactly how to connect the positive of the LED?
Thank's dedastronaut 

wow that was a long time ago...

IIRC i just hooked it up via a resistor to the IC on the pcb yes...

however, it will blink, rather than pulse...

[deadastronaut]

ahhh..so you mean how to wire up a 3pdt switch + led...?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113305.msg1048675#msg1048675

[Dylananto]

ahhh..so you mean how to wire up a 3pdt switch + led...?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113305.msg1048675#msg1048675

Hello deadastronaut excuse the delay in answering. I wanted to know how to connect the LED to the 3PDT switch, now everything is solved, I just put the LED light on and just, nothing led to 3PDT
Thank you so much from Italy

[Perrow]

Thank you so much from Italy

Greetings, writing this from Milano 

(Conference)

[deadastronaut]

cool, glad you got it done...

[Dylananto]

Hello, I finished building my small clone but I have a problem when I tried running you will hear a ticking noise type, just touch the strings of the guitar you hear this ticking and you can barely hear the little sound in the amplifier. I have done many tests, I unsoldered all wires from the switch 3dpt, I connected all direct co 9v battery, but nothing, it always makes the same sound, touch the strings and you hear this annoying ticking. I even double-checked overalls tracks and welds one by one but it looks okay. What could it be? I am so disappointed and angry

[Dylananto]

I can't solve the problem, no one can help me? Deadastronaut can you help me?

[Cozybuilder]

I incorporated a couple of fixes on my Zombie build, and got rid of the ticks. Here is the Schematic I used:
Note the mods in blue ink: there are two reference voltages, a capacitor in the flashing LED circuit, and a pair of caps at the oscillator IC power pin, literally right on the pin.
If I were to build another, I would change the power section: use a 1N5817 reverse polarity protection diode (rather than the BS250), then a series 47R resistor followed with 100uF and 100nF (ceramic) to ground for better supply filtering. This gives a knee at about 32Hz, getting rid of 50 cycle and above hum.

[Dylananto]

I incorporated a couple of fixes on my Zombie build, and got rid of the ticks. Here is the Schematic I used:
Note the mods in blue ink: there are two reference voltages, a capacitor in the flashing LED circuit, and a pair of caps at the oscillator IC power pin, literally right on the pin.
If I were to build another, I would change the power section: use a 1N5817 reverse polarity protection diode (rather than the BS250), then a series 47R resistor followed with 100uF and 100nF (ceramic) to ground for better supply filtering. This gives a knee at about 32Hz, getting rid of 50 cycle and above hum.

Hi Cozybuilder, thank's for the your reply. You could post some pictures of the pcb?
This is the circuit that I have followed taking it from page 2 of this thread:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/smallcloneclone.jpg

[Cozybuilder]

I don't know if my build will help, as it was done on perf, not PCB.

[Dylananto]

Thanks but this is not of great help to me, still very beautiful your stompbox

[Rob Strand]

Wow,  a chorus in that small box. 
The "can do" attitude of you guys never ceases to amaze me!

[bluebunny]

Wow,  a chorus in that small box. 
The "can do" attitude of you guys never ceases to amaze me!

Yep, those guys at IBM drawing corporate logos out of individual atoms just don't come close...   

(Thanks for reminding us mere mortals of your microscopic insanity, Russ!)

[mgsrake]

I incorporated a couple of fixes on my Zombie build, and got rid of the ticks. Here is the Schematic I used:
Note the mods in blue ink: there are two reference voltages, a capacitor in the flashing LED circuit, and a pair of caps at the oscillator IC power pin, literally right on the pin.
If I were to build another, I would change the power section: use a 1N5817 reverse polarity protection diode (rather than the BS250), then a series 47R resistor followed with 100uF and 100nF (ceramic) to ground for better supply filtering. This gives a knee at about 32Hz, getting rid of 50 cycle and above hum.

Dear Cozy,
thanks for sharing your knowledge, I was reading your post and as soon as possible il try to apply it to my build too
What kind of capacitor are you using? None of those are electrolytic?
thanks in advance

[bloxstompboxes]

I incorporated a couple of fixes on my Zombie build, and got rid of the ticks. Here is the Schematic I used:
Note the mods in blue ink: there are two reference voltages, a capacitor in the flashing LED circuit, and a pair of caps at the oscillator IC power pin, literally right on the pin.
If I were to build another, I would change the power section: use a 1N5817 reverse polarity protection diode (rather than the BS250), then a series 47R resistor followed with 100uF and 100nF (ceramic) to ground for better supply filtering. This gives a knee at about 32Hz, getting rid of 50 cycle and above hum.

Dear Cozy,
thanks for sharing your knowledge, I was reading your post and as soon as possible il try to apply it to my build too
What kind of capacitor are you using? None of those are electrolytic?
thanks in advance

He is using what looks to me to be monolithic and tantalum caps. The tants are indeed electrolytic and will have polarity.

[Cozybuilder]

Poly: C1(Tayda box), C5 (Wima- Mouser)

Ceramic: C2, C3, C4, C6, C7, C8, C9, C11, C13 and U3 pin8 (100pF): 2 types- 2.54mm lead spacing (Mouser) & MLCC (5mm lead spacing- Tayda)

Tantalum: C10, C12, C14, C15 and U3 pin 8 (22uF) (from Tayda)

[bluebunny]

You left out the make and model of electron microscope, Russ...   

[Dylananto]

Ok problem solved! They were not of good welds, now works great! Chorus Chorus Chorus
If you tell me how to insert photos I post here. Thank you all