Footswitch replacement

[Jdansti]

Sorry if I came off sounding irritated. I really wasn't. My sarcastic humor doesn't always translate well in text.  Thanks for trying to find the schematic on the web. Looks like you don't need any fishing lessons.

>ps also do you use a better search engine than i, i use google but if theres a better one id be curious, having not found a guyatone flip td-x tube echo schematic.

I used Google and just typed in "akai shred-o-matic schematic" without quotes. Maybe Google gives different results outside of the US.



I'll take a look at the schematic tonight. We had a pipe leak in our attic Saturday night and a huge chunk of wet ceiling fell into our bathroom. I spent most of yesterday repairing the pipe and removing the remaining wet sheet rock. Today I have to replace the sheet rock and clean up all of the cellulose insulation the fell through. 

[Jdansti]

Ok. This should be fairly simple. The first image below is the schematic as-is. The second one shows the DPDT bypass switch replaced with a 3PDT switch for true bypass.

[Nyklus]

wow this is finally happening no more terrible squeel from the pedal qith the cool tube distorion an pedal that controls it.

one other question. where does that center lead of the 3pst go? the schematic has it going to nowhere.

[Jdansti]

It's not used. Two of the three center terminals are used to switch the LEDs on and off.

[Nyklus]

i am now taking a look at these schematics and realizing i am way too confused about this.
ill post a picture of what the curren switch looks like tomorrow, but i am pretty padly lost.

[Nyklus]

before
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/602903_10151196868190753_2072669122_n.jpg
after
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/150677_10151196867985753_1000963065_n.jpg

not sure why this isnt working.
maybe posting this will help.

[snarblinge]

your switch looks to be 90deg out, in my experience you should be looking at the switch with the notch at the top or bottom contacts should look like " - " not " I " but as stated higher up always best to test the switch.

good luck

[Nyklus]

oh really!! it should be - not l ?

[snarblinge]

indeed, have a closer look at the switch diagram one page back.

[Jdansti]

Yep it's rotated 90 deg. If you'll look at the drawing I provided above, you'll notice that the switch lugs are rectangular. Line the switch up the same way as the drawing.

[Nyklus]

ok, i wired it up horizontal, even tried a new switch and its still wrong. earlier i tried it out with the wrong wiring, i hope i didnt ruin it.
what to do to get this thing right

[Jdansti]

I don't think you could have damaged anything just by rotating the switch. You might have grounded out the in/out jacks or in/out board connections, but that wouldn't cause any damage. .

What are the symptoms?

[Nyklus]

well as far as i can tell i have it wired up exactly like your diagram
i have tried switching the wires from the input in since i cant tell which one is the wire going to the resistors and which is the dirct from input wire.
pretty frustrated.
symptoms are, the tube powers up but no sound and no led

[Nyklus]

heres a way i can explain whats going on and maybe you can refer back to my tpst pic for reference
the white wire is the one going to r202
the black is the input lead
orange goes to the center post of tge led
yellow is going to r217
red is the output lead

[Mike Burgundy]

I think there's still a wiring error.
First confirm which wires are connected to what in the original schematic and write that down in the schematic
Looking at the original switch, I'd say:
red-output jack
white(partly coax)-input jack AND somehow EFF input (see schematic!) I can't see that connection on the picture, but it's there, maybe from the input jack or a sub-pcb.
yellow - EFF output
Orange - LED
black - GROUND (for switching the LEDs with)

Please verify this, don't take my word for it.

After having done so, transfer your color codes to the new TB schematic. You will need to somehow remove the extra "unseen" connection mentioned above between input/switch/EFF in, as can be seen if you compare the old schem (with connection) and new schem (without said connection).
Any connection in the new schematic that doesn't have it's color code from the old one isn't there yet and should be made with a new piece of wire. If you write everything down at every stage,work methodically, and use both schematics you should be able to get it working and get e good understanding of the wiring in the same go.
I am a bit worried by it whining in bypass though, that shouldn't happen, but let's see how this works first. Quite possible that it will be more than stable enough with the new wiring.

[Jdansti]

A photo of the new wiring would help too.

BTW. Where did you connect the center lug (#5) of the 3PDT bypass switch?

[Nyklus]

oh i didnt wire lug 5 to anything since the schem you had showed it going nowhere.

[Mike Burgundy]

It's going to ground - that little horizontal bar is also used as "ground". confusing, but there are several different symbols meaning more or less the same thing around....

[Nyklus]

so theoretically if black was the wire for the ground, i would attach that to lug 5?

[Jdansti]

Right. I used the same symbol for ground that is used everywhere else on the drawing.

I don't know where the black wire went, but lug 5 needs to go to ground.  This is why you should always photograph or draw pictures and take notes before changing wiring or components, especially when you have a perfectly good pedal that you don't want to become a doorstop.   Are you familiar with the concept of "grounding" in circuits and on schematics?  All of the little horizontal bars are electrically connected to each other as a ground, or the point of zero voltage.  You could wire lug 5 to the ground lug on your input or output jack.

If you get lug 5 grounded, the LEDs should work, but the pedal still might not work.  That brings up another question. Do you know which lugs on your input and output jacks are signal and ground?  You might have one or both jacks wired backwards.