Please check my TayDa order before I buy

Started by pappasmurfsharem, August 21, 2012, 12:18:50 PM

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pappasmurfsharem

I'm thinking about stocking up on some goodies from TayDaElectronics for my new DIY Pedal Fetish
Check my list below and make recommendations.

I'm looking for advise on the values and the quantity of values.
Please recommend any often used missing values or seldom used values that I can decrease or omit.
Also please advise on my Tranny, Fet, OP Amp selection and quantity.

Thanks!!!

**CHANGES FROM ORIGINAL POST ARE BOLDED**

Electrolytic Caps
20x - 0.1uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor    
20x - 0.22uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor    
20x - 0.47uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor    
30x - 1uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor    
20x - 2.2uF 35V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor    
20x - 3.3uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor    
30x - 4.7uF 35V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
30x - 10uF 35V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
30x - 22uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
20x - 33uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
30x - 47uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
30x - 100uF 35V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
20x - 220uF 25V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor   
20x - 470uF 35V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor   

Film Caps    
20x - 1nF 0.001uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors   
20x - 2.2nF 0.0022uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors   
20x - 4.7nF 0.0047uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors
20x - 3.3nF 0.0033uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors
20x - 10nF 0.01uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors   
20x - 22nF 0.022uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors
20x - 33nF 0.033uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors   
20x - 47nF 0.047uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors   
20x - 100nF 0.1uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors   
20x - 330nF 0.33uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors
20x - 1uF 100V 5% Polyester Film Box Type Capacitor   


Ceramic Caps   
20x - 22pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
20x - 33pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
20x - 47pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor

20x - 50pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor   
20x - 100pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor   
20x - 150pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor   
20x - 220pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor   
20x - 250pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor   
20x - 330pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
20x - 470pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
20x - 560pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
20x - 680pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
   
20x - 820pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
   

Transistors
10x - 2N5088 NPN General Purpose Transistor   
10x - J201 JFET N-Channel Amplifier Transistor   
10x - 2N5457 JFET N-Channel Transistor
10x - 2N5089 NPN General Purpose Transistor   
10x - 2N3904 NPN General Propose Transistor   
10x - 2N2222A 2N2222 NPN Transistor    
10x - 2N3906 General Propose PNP Transistor
10x - MPSA18 NPN General Purpose Transistor
10x - MPSA13 Darlington Transistor NPN
10x 2N7000 MOSFET N-CHANNEL 60V 0.2A


MISC OP AMPS   
4x - LM1458N LM1458 1458 IC DUAL OPERATIONAL AMPLIFIER
4x - TJM4558 4558 Dual Operational Amplifier Wide Band IC
4x - TL071 Operational Amplifier J-FET PDIP-8 TL071CP
10x - TL072 LOW NOISE J-FET DUAL OP-AMP IC
2x - TL074 Quad Operational Amplifier J-FET PDIP-14 TL074CN
4x - NE555 IC 555 Timer DIP-8       
4x - PT2399 2399 Echo Audio Processor Guitar IC
4x - NE5532 5532 IC Dual Low Noise Op-Amp

Sockets
4x - 16 pin DIP IC Socket Adaptor Solder Type
4x - 14 pin DIP IC Socket Adaptor Solder Type
30x - 8 pin DIP IC Socket Adaptor Solder Type
5x - 40 Pin DIP SIP IC Sockets Adaptor Solder Type


Diodes
20x 1N4001
20x 1N4148
10x 1N34A 1N34 Germanium Diode DO-7
10x 1N60P 1N60 SCHOTTKY DIODE 45V 30mA

Potentiometers
3x B10k Pot
3x B100k Pot
3x B50k Pot
3x B500K Pot
3x B1M Pot
3x A100k pot

Trim Pots
1x - 100K OHM Trimpot Variable Resistor 6mm
1x - 10K OHM Trimpot Variable Resistor 6mm

LEDS
10x - LED 5mm Green Water Clear Super Bright
10x - LED 5mm Red Water Clear Ultra Bright
10x - LED 5mm White Water Clear Ultra Bright

Power
6x - DC Power Jack 2.1mm Enclosed Frame With Switch External


Switches
2x - 3PDT Stomp Foot / Pedal Switch
1x - Mini Toggle Switch DPDT On-On
1x - Mini Toggle Switch DPDT On-Off-On

Jacks
2x - 6.35mm 1/4" Stereo Chassis Socket / Jack 3 Terminals
2x - 6.35mm 1/4" Mono Chassis Socket / Jack
"I want to build a delay, but I don't have the time."

JRB

Sockets for your IC's and transistors. At least if you plan on soldering them on a board believe me you don't want to be desoldering IC's or anything with more then 2 legs.
And I don't know if you already got them but you don't seem to have any resistors in the list.

jkokura

You have way too many electrolytic caps, and not enough pots.

You really only need 1uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, 47uF, and 100uF electrolytic caps. If you were just getting enough to get started, I'd get 20 of each, and 50 of the 1, 10, and 47uF caps.

Similarly, get 50 10nF and 100nF caps, those are the most commonly used film caps. Also consider getting the box poly film caps instead of the green mylar ones for all the nF values.

Get 10 TL072s. Get a couple TL074s.

For Pots, it's tough because Tayda doesn't have good selection. Consider getting the pot pack from Smallbear. And as someone mentioned, you have no resistors in that order. Look for a 2000+ pack on ebay. You can get the carbon film resistors for pretty cheap.

Jacob


Govmnt_Lacky

Plenty of circuits out there that use Ceramics that are less than 50pF.

Get some 22pF, 33pF, and 47pF  ;)
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

.Mike

If you're not doing it for yourself, it's not DIY. ;)

My effects site: Just one more build... | My website: America's Debate.

pappasmurfsharem

#5
Quote from: JRB on August 21, 2012, 12:50:19 PM
Sockets for your IC's and transistors. At least if you plan on soldering them on a board believe me you don't want to be desoldering IC's or anything with more then 2 legs.
And I don't know if you already got them but you don't seem to have any resistors in the list.

Totally forgot sockets, thanks I have a 2500 resistor pack from Ebay already

Quote from: jkokura on August 21, 2012, 01:02:26 PM
You have way too many electrolytic caps, and not enough pots.

You really only need 1uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, 47uF, and 100uF electrolytic caps. If you were just getting enough to get started, I'd get 20 of each, and 50 of the 1, 10, and 47uF caps.

Similarly, get 50 10nF and 100nF caps, those are the most commonly used film caps. Also consider getting the box poly film caps instead of the green mylar ones for all the nF values.

Get 10 TL072s. Get a couple TL074s.

For Pots, it's tough because Tayda doesn't have good selection. Consider getting the pot pack from Smallbear. And as someone mentioned, you have no resistors in that order. Look for a 2000+ pack on ebay. You can get the carbon film resistors for pretty cheap.

Jacob



As far as the Caps (electro. and film) I just looked at some of the builds I was interested in off BYOC and madbean and the gallery and grabbed multiples of those. I suppose I could probably cut a few.

Why pick the box caps vs the mylars? I believe I saw a post somewhere where RG was saying the difference to most ears is virtually NIL.  I actually prefer the box caps mainly for aesthetics but they are a bit more expensive.

I see TL072 quite often so that isn't a bad idea, but what are your thoughts on the other's (eg TL071 vs TL072 then the 4558's etc) Are you saying get rid of the others and mainly get the 072 and 074s? or add those to my current list. I know I want the pt2399 for obvious reasons, and the 555 timers seem to have so many options.

As far as the pots, SB is just way to expensive (not really, just $94 is a bit much to spend at this time. Its worth it and I would love to do it,but my lady would mutilate me) I just mainly want to get the most obvious things now. I'll always be able to add items when I need to purchase enclosures.


Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 21, 2012, 01:37:42 PM
Plenty of circuits out there that use Ceramics that are less than 50pF.

Get some 22pF, 33pF, and 47pF  ;)

Added. Thanks

Quote from: .Mike on August 21, 2012, 02:04:31 PM
It seems like 1u film caps are pretty common on a lot of builds. Tayda has the best price I've seen:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/polyester-film-box-type-capacitors/1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

Mike

I wanted a set of those but wouldn't 100v be rather large?
"I want to build a delay, but I don't have the time."

jkokura

#6
Quote from: pappasmurfsharem on August 21, 2012, 02:12:24 PM
As far as the Caps (electro. and film) I just looked at some of the builds I was interested in off BYOC and madbean and the gallery and grabbed multiples of those. I suppose I could probably cut a few.

Why pick the box caps vs the mylars? I believe I saw a post somewhere where RG was saying the difference to most ears is virtually NIL.  I actually prefer the box caps mainly for aesthetics but they are a bit more expensive.

I see TL072 quite often so that isn't a bad idea, but what are your thoughts on the other's (eg TL071 vs TL072 then the 4558's etc) Are you saying get rid of the others and mainly get the 072 and 074s? or add those to my current list. I know I want the pt2399 for obvious reasons, and the 555 timers seem to have so many options.

As far as the pots, SB is just way to expensive (not really, just $94 is a bit much to spend at this time. Its worth it and I would love to do it,but my lady would mutilate me) I just mainly want to get the most obvious things now. I'll always be able to add items when I need to purchase enclosures.

Quote from: .Mike on August 21, 2012, 02:04:31 PM
It seems like 1u film caps are pretty common on a lot of builds. Tayda has the best price I've seen:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/polyester-film-box-type-capacitors/1uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

Mike

I wanted a set of those but wouldn't 100v be rather large?

First, yeah electro caps from Tayda are so cheap that you can just get however many you want and it's no big deal. At 2 cents each, who cares if you get 20 or 50 or more than you want. But if you are getting all those small values, make sure you still get extras of the common values (1, 10, 47).

Second, I like box caps because of the way the fit on PCBs, not because of their sound. R.G. is correct - there's nil difference functionally and sonically. However, having built many pedals, the expense of box caps is worth it while assembling, based on my own experience. It's up to you. I also use panasonic poly film caps instead of ceramic caps for lower values, 100pF-920pF. I only use Ceramic caps below 100pF (1-99pF). Not necessary, but another's perspective.

Third, I'm just saying get more TL072's than you were planning. A couple builds in, you'll burn right through them. I go through easily 3x as many TL072 chips as all the rest combined because they are the go to chip for dual op amp applications in the DIY world. That means you'll see them in phasers, in delays, in overdrives and boosts, and everything else. You'll see the odd 4558 in overdrives, but it's not the IC of choice in many other applications. The TL072 is the veritable swiss army knife. While you're at it, make it 15 or 20, that's how often they get used. TL071's are the same for single op amps, but much less common, and TL074 is the quad op amp version.

You're right, but that SB kit is a good deal. You're paying 90 bucks for 100 pots, plus 4 bucks for the organizer. You're right that's a lot of money, but that's cheap for good Alpha Pots. I'm not saying you have to do it, but just that it's a good price from a good supplier for someone who's just getting started. Mammoth also has good prices, but you'll have to go through and sort out which pots you want to get. Trust me, I know how painful buying pots can be, I have an organizer with close to 250 pots in it. If you get just what you need now, that's a good way to go as well. It's easily the single most expensive part on most builds. I can build an overdrive for pennies in parts, but the pots will always be $3.

And yes, it might seem like the 1uF Film caps are big, but they're used often. No, 100V is not too big, 630V is too big. 100V is a common value for all the film caps I use, including my smallest kinds. Get 20 of those caps for sure.

Jacob

midwayfair

Reitterating some things other people have said, but just going off my recent orders ...

You will probably need a LOT more pots in more values. However, since you aren't getting any enclosures, it's possible you aren't planning on boxing a lot of stuff. In that case, you can probably get away with a few of each value and use aligator clips or breadboard/testing rig connections.

Get some 1N60P. You can use them in place of Germanium diodes (which you will need a surprising number of), and it's one of the only thing Tayda has that is a good sub (stay away from their 1N34As -- it's not Ge and it clips above .6v, so it's useless for most stompbox applications that call for 1N34A). They have BAT41s, you might want to pick up a couple because they're also fairly common if you go anywhere near modern ODs.

Get more TL072s than anything else. They're used constantly in multiples and they can sub for most dual op amps.

Get some mosfets (e.g. 2n7000). They're used very often in input stages and are also useful as clippers.
My band, Midway Fair: www.midwayfair.org. Myself's music and things I make: www.jonpattonmusic.com. DIY pedal demos: www.youtube.com/jonspatton. PCBs of my Bearhug Compressor and Cardinal Harmonic Tremolo are available from http://www.1776effects.com!

Kesh

there's a bit of a gap between
20x - 470pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
and
20x - 820pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitor

If you build a big muff you'll want to play with using things above 470 like 560.

I would re iterate the 4558 posts, use TL072, and also NE5532 if you don't care about batteries.

Also get some germanium diodes like 1N34A (and sockets) and LEDs

You will also want jack sockets, stereo and mono in roughly equal numbers, 9V sockets and switches, especially foot switches.

LucifersTrip

#9
a big hole I see is the lack of either really high gain transistors or darlington.

I'd prob get some:

MPSA18 NPN General Purpose Transistor (high)

MPSA13 Darlington Transistor NPN


I think the 2222A's should take care of the low end...if not:

2SC1815 C1815 TRANSISTOR NPN 50V 0.15A (low)
or
2N5550 NPN TRANSISTOR 160V 600mA (low)

always think outside the box

pappasmurfsharem

#10
Any particularly useful trimpot values? I grabbed two that I need for a Mastro FSH1 build.

Orignial Post is updated. If I missed one of your suggestions please remind me.

So far with coupon(666222) all this is a nice $65.30 shipped.
"I want to build a delay, but I don't have the time."

Mac Walker

One thing I'd like to add for everyone reading- if you've ordered pots from Tayda recently (or plan to), check them for poor crimping on the case tab, I had one out of about forty that had to be re-crimped with pliers, doesn't effect the function but you can feel the case moving when you rotate the pot....

Probably just a quality control one-off that was bad, but it's worth noting....

midwayfair

Quote from: pappasmurfsharem on August 22, 2012, 09:34:17 AM
Any particularly useful trimpot values?

100K and 10K are very common. But they're 6c each. If you can afford it, get a wide assortment -- you can use them in breadboarding. A 500Ohm is the smallest you're likely to need. And 250K I believe is the bias pot on a Phase 45.
My band, Midway Fair: www.midwayfair.org. Myself's music and things I make: www.jonpattonmusic.com. DIY pedal demos: www.youtube.com/jonspatton. PCBs of my Bearhug Compressor and Cardinal Harmonic Tremolo are available from http://www.1776effects.com!

John Lyons

I would take out the low values electrolytics and at least double the film cap quantity.
A couple big muffs will use nearly 20 .1 caps.
.1, .22 and .47 electrolytic caps are redundant with the same value in film and film with work better.

Also. 100K Log pots are the most common as volume pots, you don't have any.
I would get at least (10) 100kA, 100k, 10k, 1kRA (fuzz face) and 1k.
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

davent

My take... No matter how much stuff you have on hand Murphy's Law says your next build will need something you don't have, some odd cap value you'll only ever need once, a trimmer, a missng pot value, cool knobs, there's always something.

Personally I wouldn't sweat this too much and would be ordering far less overall until i'd built a few things and was sure the magic mojo wasn't going to wear off (Tayda shipping is dirt cheap), you may still have to get (or maybe you have all this stuff) various switches, jacks, enclosures, LED's, solder, tools(?), storage containers to put it all in, hookup wire, pcb's, perf, stripboard etc. etc... there's always going to be more orders needing to be placed and money to be spent. The little electronics bits are the smallest expense in any build unless you need some extremely rare, extinct trinket to make it all happen.

Anyways... lots of good advice above, i'd also ditch the 16pin DIP's as your 8pin make them redundant, just one less thing to keep track of.

Good luck! (and when the goodies do arrive it's better then Christmas!)
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

Quackzed

+1 yeah man, i'd cut it in half and get pots and boxes...
aswell as cut the big electros down cut the pf 's down bump up the .1ufs and .047ufs
down the diodes, up the pots...
jacks?
up the switches... tpdt's ... get some flux!
flux! fluckin' flux maaan!
velcro! and pnp stock etchant and single sided copper clad board...
nothing says forever like a solid block of liquid nails!!!

pappasmurfsharem

Quote from: davent on August 23, 2012, 12:31:10 AM
My take... No matter how much stuff you have on hand Murphy's Law says your next build will need something you don't have, some odd cap value you'll only ever need once, a trimmer, a missng pot value, cool knobs, there's always something.

Personally I wouldn't sweat this too much and would be ordering far less overall until i'd built a few things and was sure the magic mojo wasn't going to wear off (Tayda shipping is dirt cheap), you may still have to get (or maybe you have all this stuff) various switches, jacks, enclosures, LED's, solder, tools(?), storage containers to put it all in, hookup wire, pcb's, perf, stripboard etc. etc... there's always going to be more orders needing to be placed and money to be spent. The little electronics bits are the smallest expense in any build unless you need some extremely rare, extinct trinket to make it all happen.

Anyways... lots of good advice above, i'd also ditch the 16pin DIP's as your 8pin make them redundant, just one less thing to keep track of.

Good luck! (and when the goodies do arrive it's better then Christmas!)
dave
Quote from: Quackzed on August 23, 2012, 01:26:25 AM
+1 yeah man, i'd cut it in half and get pots and boxes...
aswell as cut the big electros down cut the pf 's down bump up the .1ufs and .047ufs
down the diodes, up the pots...
jacks?
up the switches... tpdt's ... get some flux!
flux! fluckin' flux maaan!
velcro! and pnp stock etchant and single sided copper clad board...


I mainly bought the Caps/Trans./IC's so I wouldn't have to do so later. I only ordered a really small quantity of the switches and jacks because they are going to be for my breadboard setup. I will purchase the switches and jacks along with enclosures when I am ready to box up the circuits, and having nearly all the smaller components will save part sourcing headaches later.

The odd value caps is another reason I bought a fairly large quantity of different values so I can mix and match to get the values I need.
"I want to build a delay, but I don't have the time."

armdnrdy

Make sure that you order plenty of the thing that you forgot to order after you've  placed your order!!!  :icon_biggrin:

I speak from experience!! No matter how thorough I am in making my list.....There's always something!!!
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

ThePastRecedes


armdnrdy

Read, (MAX1044 charge pump) on this forum. They fail!!!

I contacted Tayda and asked them to start stocking the LT1054CP. Much better charge pump!! You can run it up to 15 volts input and it has a 100 milliamp output.

Contact Tayda and ask them to stock the LT1054CP. If a few people ask, they'll bring them in.
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)