Jake's Dr. Boogey build

[therockdemon]

Hey everybody!  This is my first post on the forum but I intend to become a regular.  As a hobby, I play guitar and I've also modded two of my electrics with voltage mods, killswitches, and other such things you can probably imagine.  I would like to use schematics, layouts, and advice on this board to take up the hobby of building pedals.  I have a good job already, so I can afford to buy the needed supplies, and I don't intend to build for profit.

I'll cut to the chase here.  I would ultimately like to build a high quality Dr. Boogey pedal for personal use, but I'm going to need a little help - hopefully I can get that here.  I found this video (click here) on youtube and I'd like to match that tone.  I have a quality tube amp combo already, but the heavy tone in that video is out of my reach with my current setup.  The only two pedals I have currently are a storebought Dunlop GCB-95 Crybaby Wah and Decimator noise filter pedal.

I'm going to begin by building this simple Tweak-O pedal (click here), but I am starting this thread early because I realize it takes time to research.  I'm completely enthusiastic about this, I've already done guitar mods in past, and I'm not afraid to learn!  The tone in the youtube vid I linked above is currently my goal (you have to set a marker somewhere, right?), but perhaps that will not prove to be my favorite version.  I like the tone in this video because it surpasses the "Brit crunch" gain/distortion and moves into the viscinity of "Dimebag metal".  There's a heavy chunk to it, and chugs well.  This is the kind of tone I'm chasing.  I have an EMG-81 setup and SD Blackouts that would love a piece of that pedal.

To start, I'd love to hear what mods I should probably turn most of my attention toward for the desired tone I described.  I do want to build other pedals as well, but this is my first serious goal.  As I mentioned, I'm going to work through some basics first, but eventually I do want to build several others.

Lastly, I'll post this link since I'm sure someone would link me to it right away anyways.  I'll add all other links and resources I use to this list so another nooby can be quickly and easily referred to this thread in future.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=61391.0

[deadastronaut]

have you a guitar that goes down to low C?.....

imo thats why it sounds diifferent....detuned always sounds meaner......if you stuck a standard tuning guitar in there it would be the same as this....my boogey..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4M0_rrtse0&feature=plcp

its a standard boogey build....

edit: welcome btw..

[therockdemon]

Thanks for the quality demo vid, you did a good job on it.  The pedal sounds great and I greatly appreciate being able to match up what you're saying with what the video sounds like.  Admittedly, I do prefer playing in standard or 1/2 step down tuning most of the time.  A good drop D or drop C run once in a while is great though, and definitely affects how the final amp sound comes out.  I have been playing guitar for 4 years and tried numerous tunings in that frame, so I do understand your point there.

Are you saying that your pedal build has no mods at all?  How about a filter?  I'd really like to know precisely what parts and layout you used.  If the specifics are already posted on here somewhere, a link to it would be great!

[deadastronaut]

good luck man, theres plenty of help on here if you get stuck on anything....cheers rob..

edit: yep standard build..this one.

http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/dr-boogey/

http://gaussmarkov.net/layouts/drboo/drboo-project.pdf

if i were to build this again, i would probably breadboard it and tweak a little..


edit:  frequency central (rick) made a layout with on board pots too, if your lucky he may have a spare pcb for ya...

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=83671.0

[frequencycentral]

He's lucky, I got half a dozen.

[pappasmurfsharem]

You can check out madbean for a Dr. Boogie PCB if you don't want the "hassle" of making your own board as well. Although there is something to be said about something that is completely DIY.

See the Chunk Chunk there.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/index.html

[therockdemon]

I bought a bunch of tools, parts, and components to play with (some unnecessary things too) to get my feet wet and play around.  I'll probably be starting to build my first demo pedal this weekend, and it should be done in 2-4 weeks since some parts will need to be ordered online.  While I play, I'm shopping for Dr. Boogey parts as well (not purchasing those just yet).  

aluminum case - recommendations?  1590B? 1590BB?

I want a good case since the pedal will otherwise look shoddy/cheap and might not insulate the circuitry as well.  I'd also be more than happy to listen to advice on dressing it up with paint and junk like that.  I haven't got the slightest clue how to paint aluminum.

footswitch button - 3PDT is used, correct?  What a quality, reliable, heavy duty switch for this?

As for etching the circuit board, does anyone have advice or links for that?  One of the comments on mark's page is as follows.

download the layout and print it on acetate (clear plastic.) using a laser toner printer(normal printers wont work)then iron the image onto a piece of copper clad board...now soak in ferric chloride and watch the remaining copper dissappear..clean of the ink ...voila..you now have the image...drill holes and your done..

I do have access to a color laser printer.  What would you "drill" with... a dremel?  What's the best technique for this?  How do I know it's going to print the right size in the first place - use Adobe with standard 8 1/2" x 11" settings on this (click here)?

On second thought, maybe I will go with that "chunk chunk" board if I don't feel confident about making my own.  Perhaps I'll try making my own first and if I fail, I'll buy the chunk.  Does anybody have advice/resources to help with this?

I'd like to understand biasing and what that's all about.

Lastly I'd like to close this post by saying "kudos" to the chunk chunk guide (click here) which is just a VERY slightly modded Dr. Boogey build.  That will be a great resource to work from.

[J0K3RX]

Since I have been messing around with AMT and other FET preamp schematics I have found that triode FET limitation can be applied to the Dr Boogie.

Read the section on "Pseudo-triode" FET limitation and look at figure 5
http://www.amtelectronics.com/support/articles/why_tube-like_cannot_measure_up_to_tube_inside/

You only need to add diodes between gate and source on Q2-3 and 4 leaving out the 220pF caps on Q2 and 4. You can use 1N4148's or BAT85, either work fine.

There is also a C1 cap mod on a switch for a fatter sound but I am not sure of the value of the second cap?

I think this sounds great in the Dr Boogie, gives it a warmer more tube like feel and tone... Not that it sounds bad the original way but I believe this does sound better and more realistic... It doesn't really add or take away any of the gain just more of a tone, clarity and feel kinda thing. I myself use the Dr. Boogie as a stand alone preamp either into a power amp or direct rather than running it into the front of an amp. It is after all a preamp but it's one of those pedals that also sound pretty good running into the front input of an amp... The amp that you run it into can greatly affect the sound that you get by the way and that is probably why you hear so many different sounds from the Dr Boogie... One may sound heavier than another and another may sound thin or bass heavy, just depends on what you run it into and how you have the tone and gain setting adjusted on the amp. When running straight into another preamp/amp the level and gain controls act differently than if you were to use the pedal as a preamp and run directly into a power amp or straight in to a recording or mixing setup.

Another thing that people do myself included is run a TS808 in front of the Dr Boogie. It really kix it into high gain heaven and for me is a total must have on almost all of the preamp clones I build. Just keep the Boogie gain rolled back to about 5 or 6 and kick on the tube screamer with the level all the way up and the gain all the way off and SHAZAM! Best mod you can do in my opinion! I even put the TS inside the same pedal enclosure with the Boogie and have it foot switchable... Makes for one mean ass pedal/preamp!

If you google the Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier schematic you will see that the Dr Boogie is almost identical to the actual tube preamp schematic with a few changes and addons mainly in the tone stack, a few added caps and a couple value changes here and there.. For the most part they are same though.

I myself like the frequencycentral board with the onboard pots but the new double sided madbean board looks nice as well...

[Pyr0]

Interesting article Jim. It says to add an extra source resistor, but you're just connecting the diodes straight across gate and source. Do you reckon the extra source resistor isn't needed ?
I have a Dr Boogie, so I must try the diode mod later.

[j.d.roost]

I built a bean "2012" Chunk a few weeks ago.
It sounds great as is, though I did put C15 on a toggle with a larger value cap.
I feel the stock value is a bit tinny for my ears.
Tons of gain on hand and the pcb layout was A+.

[J0K3RX]

Interesting article Jim. It says to add an extra source resistor, but you're just connecting the diodes straight across gate and source. Do you reckon the extra source resistor isn't needed ?
I have a Dr Boogie, so I must try the diode mod later.

Alan, good point! I have tried the extra source resistor with less than pleasing results... Not sure if what I am doing is correct as far as that goes since I am so horrible at math!? The reason that I tried it on the Dr Boogie with just the diode is because all of the AMT pedals have it this way with no extra source resistor! Not a single one of them have the extra source resistor...? Try it and see what you think... You can just solder them to the back side of the board, no additional holes etc... no harm done.  

A guy in another forum suggested this configuration as well and I tried it with real good results... Just an example.


I also tried a diode from gate to ground and one from source to ground at the same time with good results but not a lot of difference if any at all from just the one like in the example.  

I think KMG could weigh in on this better than I... Maybe he will comment?

[therockdemon]

I read that you should use resistors with 1% tolerance and capacitors with 5% tolerance for these builds.  I'm currently shopping for my demo "Tweak-O" pedal parts and was wondering if the parts I'm planning to buy (below) would meet the quality requirements for the Mr. Boogie.  Obviously these are not the right parts for the Boogie, but I was wondering if "Small Bear Electronics LLC" will give me quality parts.  If not, which parts would I be better off getting from another supplier?

I would also like to know if anything below seems like it's not the best choice.  There are also several things I'm not quite sure where to buy from, and I'd like your recommendations.  External links are welcomed!

2PDT and 3PDT stomp switches with TRUE BYPASS.
good shielded wire
potentiometer knobs
simple, elegant, and pretty LEDs

All of these are clickable links to the "Small Bear Electronics LLC" listings I'm currently planning to buy from unless otherwise advised.  I started putting notes/questions in for the first few and then got bored.  I'm just looking for comments and advice on everything:
Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper, 11 Detents - detents?
1.1K to 6.2K - tolerance not specified?
6.8K to 39K - tolerance not specified?
240K to 1 Meg - tolerance not specified?
Capacitor, Topmay TCM05, .001 mf - .1 mf - says +/1 5% so must be good?
Capacitor, Electrolytic, Axial 16 V 1 mf. - 100 mf. - tolerance not specified?
Diode 1N4001
Transistor 2N5089
Jack, 1/4 in. Stereo Switchcraft #12B
Jack, 1/4 in. Mono Switchcraft #11
Pad-Per-Hole Board Medium Single-Side
Push-in Terminals
9-Volt Battery Clip
Wire Bare Tinned #22 - Per ft.
Box - Small Bear 'BB' Size
9-Volt Battery Snap

[J0K3RX]

I read that you should use resistors with 1% tolerance and capacitors with 5% tolerance for these builds.  I'm currently shopping for my demo "Tweak-O" pedal parts and was wondering if the parts I'm planning to buy (below) would meet the quality requirements for the Mr. Boogie.  Obviously these are not the right parts for the Boogie, but I was wondering if "Small Bear Electronics LLC" will give me quality parts.  If not, which parts would I be better off getting from another supplier?

I would also like to know if anything below seems like it's not the best choice.  There are also several things I'm not quite sure where to buy from, and I'd like your recommendations.  External links are welcomed!

2PDT and 3PDT stomp switches with TRUE BYPASS.
good shielded wire
potentiometer knobs
simple, elegant, and pretty LEDs

All of these are clickable links to the "Small Bear Electronics LLC" listings I'm currently planning to buy from unless otherwise advised.  I started putting notes/questions in for the first few and then got bored.  I'm just looking for comments and advice on everything:
Alpha Single-Gang 16mm, Solder Terms, Linear & Audio Taper, 11 Detents - detents?
1.1K to 6.2K - tolerance not specified?
6.8K to 39K - tolerance not specified?
240K to 1 Meg - tolerance not specified?
Capacitor, Topmay TCM05, .001 mf - .1 mf - says +/1 5% so must be good?
Capacitor, Electrolytic, Axial 16 V 1 mf. - 100 mf. - tolerance not specified?
Diode 1N4001
Transistor 2N5089
Jack, 1/4 in. Stereo Switchcraft #12B
Jack, 1/4 in. Mono Switchcraft #11
Pad-Per-Hole Board Medium Single-Side
Push-in Terminals
9-Volt Battery Clip
Wire Bare Tinned #22 - Per ft.
Box - Small Bear 'BB' Size
9-Volt Battery Snap

Small Bear is good!

Everything looks fine to me... Everybody has their own little nitch on resistors and caps... metal film seems to be the fav but I have used and still use carbon film with pretty much the same results. I measure all my resistors just out of habit now just to be sure cause you never know when you might have them mixed up for whatever reason. Really sux to have to go over a build just to find a wrong valued resistor, cap etc... I don't know about others here but I have a harder time recognizing the color bands on the metal film resistors by just a glance... You might want to email small bear and ask if they can fill the BOM (bill of materials) for the Dr Boogie or Tweak-O so you don't have to hunt down every part on the site? I don't know if they will do that or not but that would be real nice if they could!?

I usually get most of my parts like switches, pots etc from here and they have free shipping for all orders with a minimum order of $10.00 and they are FAST!!!
http://www.thaishine.com/servlet/the-1579/2-x-3PDT-Stomp/Detail

They don't have a lot of quality caps and such so small bear is better for that kind of stuff..  

I wouldn't recommend using a dremel for drilling holes if you make your own board! Unless you have a press for it and a real good speed control... If not you will get into trouble real fast with a dremel and you will probably ruin a few boards and snap a few bits doing it... I use a cheap drill press and carbide bits
You can get the bits and copper clad boards of all thicknesses and colors from abcfab
http://stores.ebay.com/pcblaminatescopperclad

Or, you can just get a board from frequencycentral and save yourself the pain unless you want to make your own, it's not bad to have that ability...

[therockdemon]

I think you're a little late on part hunting.  All of those links are clickable, and all the corresponding items are in my cart already.  =]  I just haven't submitted the order yet because I'm waiting on you guys to approve.

I'd also like to ask if anybody has a particular recommendation on a good multimeter (I think I prefer digital).  I'm certainly the type to measure resistors and such just the same as J0K3RX mentioned above.  I do already have a 30W soldering iron, so don't think I'm too poorly equipped and starting from square one.

[J0K3RX]

I think you're a little late on part hunting.  All of those links are clickable, and all the corresponding items are in my cart already.  =]  I just haven't submitted the order yet because I'm waiting on you guys to approve.

I'd also like to ask if anybody has a particular recommendation on a good multimeter (I think I prefer digital).  I'm certainly the type to measure resistors and such just the same as J0K3RX mentioned above.  I do already have a 30W soldering gun, so don't think I'm too poorly equipped and starting from square one.

ok, 30watt gun or iron? big difference...

multimeter - I use Fluke but there are many others and I don't feel like being a pioneer in the "crappy multimeter frontier!" So, maybe other will chime in on that?

[therockdemon]

I double checked, and it's a 30W iron.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758 (click)

[J0K3RX]

I double checked, and it's a 30W iron.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758 (click)

ok, no offence but that iron is crap! It should get through a couple pedals though but if you are going to go any further than that you will want to get one of these or similar!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-936-Soldering-Station-with-3-extra-tips-/180955465460?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item2a21c946f4

Also - Do not use lead free solder!!! And, keep that tip tinned at all times or it will burn up with a quickness!

[therockdemon]

So this (click) would be ideal solder?

I'm also really lost on the resistors.  Small Bear doesn't have as much detail or selection.  Mouser has a huge selection with lots of detailed descriptions that I don't understand.  If i just look at 1M resistors, there are so many different kinds and I can't tell any difference.

Would this (click) be an excellent 1M resistor for my task?  This is "through hole", do I need SMD instead?

I want stuff that's popular, going to work well, and long lasting!

[J0K3RX]

So this (click) would be ideal solder?

I'm also really lost on the resistors.  Small Bear doesn't have as much detail or selection.  Mouser has a huge selection with lots of detailed descriptions that I don't understand.  If i just look at 1M resistors, there are so many different kinds and I can't tell any difference.

Would this (click) be an excellent 1M resistor for my task?  This is "through hole", do I need SMD instead?

I want stuff that's popular, going to work well, and long lasting!

well to get you started I would get this stuff.. I use it works and looks great, flows real good and smooth.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062715&filterName=Type&filterValue=Solder

I had 2 rolls of Alpha Metals pure core and it lasted me for about a year, that stuff is the best ever and the flux is water soluble so it cleans up like gold! But, it costs as much as gold so I use the Radio Shack sh!t now... good stuff

500-Piece 1/4-Watt Carbon-Film Resistor Assortment
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062306

They actually carry the metal film assortment in the store now but there is not a very big range of values...

[therockdemon]

Jim, I already compared Radioshack prices to Small Bear and Small Bear kicked Radioshack's ass.  The only stuff I have from Radioshack is my soldering gun, some heatshrink tubing, some non-shielded wire, and some desoldering braid.  I already got sh*t about my soldering gun too, so all things considered, a bulk order through either Mouser or Small Bear with consolidated shipping seems like my best bet - I don't mind tediously selecting individual parts.

I'm finding this post educational:  http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=98763.0 (click)

I have an unusual amount of free time this weekend and I'm spending it reading about this stuff.  Even this first demo pedal, I want it to be a quality job planned first and then done right the first time or close to it (that's the point).  I will be posting pictures and progress when the time comes... maybe even videos.