Cry Baby Wah Wah Troubleshoot Please Help!

[R O Tiree]

Your diagram at use.com has several errors... you have 9V from the battery connected to the tip of your output, for example.

That said, looking at the "real-life" photo at photobucket, the wires seem to be in the right order, going to the right places, as far as I can tell from comparing my stock pedal with grainy photos off the web, but they don't agree with the diagram at use.com at all. Edit I just looked at your original post and checked out those photos and I realise that the photo you linked to in your last post is actually a stock pedal, and not yours... Pops and crackles indicate momentary shorts or open circuits, possibly both.

My advice to you is to rip it all out and start again. Go and buy wires of different colours, instead of just using black, which makes things very difficult to debug. Different colours make it easier. If you get some green, yellow, purple, blue and white, you can wire it up exactly as shown in the Erock503 picture and, once you've got it working, then you can think about modifying it.

[pinkjimiphoton]

the  wiring you posted above is 100% reversed from what it should be. the battery should be on the top, not the bottom as an example.

you could try reversing all the wires...the middle one is probably the only one that's right.

hell, i'm almost ready to send ya the whole freekin' circuit, pre-wired!!

lol

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

Wait just to clarify, I did flip the board over to match the direction I was looking at it from; While taking note of all the wires.

When you said the battery should be on top, I thought you might not have noticed the board was flip flopped from the previous images  .

Also, I can see exactly how the board is wired in the stock circuit image I posted but, that never worked when I tried it.

What about undoing everything I've done after I got it working in bypass mode, and soldering the leftover wires the way it looks in the stock pedal, combined with your wiring diagram?

[pinkjimiphoton]

bypass mode is fine (as long as you finally connected the grounds)

there's no connection between that and the circuit... bypassed is bypassed. if it works, don't f*c* with it.

but as for rewiring the rest?

yah, probably not a bad idea. start with the pot. cuz that's where your output comes from. once ya get the pot in, take the first pin (the one not connected to ground, and not the middle one) to the lug of the board output  pin of the footswitch.

now, if ya disturb the circuit, you should hear it if it's plugged in...do voltage readings, whatever, but you should hear some noise in your amp.

if you don't, something else is wrong.  if you do, then connect the input of the circuit to the lug for the board input jack. try it. if it works, great. if not...

you got something wrong with your circuit. did you make sure the  upper most 22u cap was moved like i suggested? as shown on your layout, it doesn't complete the circuit.

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

Ok, everything's soldered back up the way it should be but,

I have these three wires I don't know where to put, the two blue ones that come from the board and pot, and the green one.

I'm pretty sure those are the effect input and output but, which poles on the switch should they be soldered to? I tried putting them where the board input and output poles are but, that didn't work.

[pinkjimiphoton]

you don't have to have the blue wire from the pot go back to the board, that's the output of the circuit, just solder that to the top right pin of the switch.

the green wire should connect from the tip of the input jack to the left middle terminal of the footswitch, the left top terminal should then connect to the .01 cap feeding the
base of the mpsa 18.

if everything else is good, now it should work.

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

Everythings wired now, still nothing from the circuit, so I'll take a look at that next. Although, When I hookup the DC jack to it's pads, or even jumper the two pads that are supposed to be connected, I get nothing from the pedal, not even in bypass. Why would that be?

[pinkjimiphoton]

sounds like a dead short in the power supply

[pinkjimiphoton]

did you ever check and relocate the .o22 cap like i suggested? if you did it the way your layout showed, the circuit was interrupted

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

Yep, I fixed the cap that was in the wrong pad, I'm checking for solder bridges now.

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

http://www.use.com/7ff3f9b162305b32317c

Here's the current wiring, which I'm assuming(hoping) is right. I did notice that when I rotate the pot, the fuzz coming out of the amp gets louder/quieter. Also, is it possible for the problem to be a dead short, if the battery isn't heating up anymore?

EDIT: Since, the problem seems to be cap related. Could it be for some reason the board isn't taking the caps I'm giving it? I have these little blue ones for the .22u and orange drop for .01u. I'm reading now about how someone switched their caps (same values) and the wah rejected them with lots of hissing.

[pinkjimiphoton]

the blue wire from the middle right side of the switch as pictured needs to move down two pads, right now it's connected to ground.

getting closer. the rest looks fairly good, without revisiting the earlier pics and schematic.

that wire being in the wrong place will explain a lot.

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

Oh damn, I didn't catch that. That was my mistake, I stuck it in the wrong pad in the diagram, the actual pedal has it where it's supposed to be.

[pinkjimiphoton]

beats me, dude. try posting voltages again.

may have to do it at every junction.

did you build an audio probe yet?

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

It's cool bro, THANKS A TON! for helping me as much as you have. Out of any forum I've looked or posted, you've definitely helped me the most, so thank you. I know I wouldn't be anywhere near where I am now, if it wasn't for your help. Actually, I think the DPDT switch is bad, because I tested it for continuity and got nothing. Lastly, I've been wondering, are DPDT switches (at least the kind I'm working with) polarized (the two vertical rows)?

[pinkjimiphoton]

no worries brother, we all float down here....

in the seas of the solder addiction, making holes form for electrons to form in in strange ways.. alchemicalallelectric disease...

gimme a nite off...remind me tomorrow, and we'll start taking this mofo a couple parts at a time. you have gotta trace a circuit, so go to the debugging page, and make an audio probe.
you will freekin' love it.

trust.

[R O Tiree]

A DPDT switch is really 2 separate switches in one enclosure. Each switch has 3 terminals. The centre one is "Common" and the switch connects to each of the outer lugs in turn each time you depress the plunger.  So, if you hold the switch so that the short sides are at the top, you can imagine 2 switches side by side in the box.  The left-hand Common will connect to the left-hand outer lugs in turn, same for the right-hand side.

There are 2 types - Latched and Momentary. A Latched switch will stay in its new position when you release the plunger. A Momentary switch will relax back into its previous position as you release.  For a Latched switch, it doesn't matter if you rotate the switch 180 degrees - it'll still work.

So, to check your switch, set your DMM to measure Resistance, put one probe on one of the 2 Common terminals and touch the other probe to one of the lugs either side of it.  If the DMM doesn't read "0" or close to it, try the other lug and you should get "0" on that lug. Press the plunger and check that you get continuity to the opposite lug from the first test. Repeat the whole test for the other half of the switch (one probe to the second Common lug, check for continuity on the outer lugs, etc).

Of course, if you've actually got yourself a Momentary switch, that might explain some of the problems you're getting... Here's how to check.  Set your DMM up for resistance, touch one probe to one of the 2 Common lugs and find out which of the outer lugs is connected to that Common at the moment by touching the other probe to each of its outer lugs in turn.  Make a mental note which one it is, then depress the plunger and release it.  Repeat the measurement.  If you're still connected to the same lug, you've got a Momentary switch.  Confirm by pressing down on the plunger while you still have the DMM probes attached - if it changes only while the plunger is depressed and then returns to the original connection when you release, then you've definitely bought the wrong switch.

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

Thankfully I don't have a momentary.

I measured the right common terminal with the top right terminal (for resistance) got 0.01. Then, I measured the bottom right terminal for continuity, meter also read 0.01.

I got the same readings for the other 3 terminals except the resistance and continuity were flip flopped.

Like the top left pole only gave me continuity readings (0.01) and the bottom left only gave me resistance readings (0.01).

Then, when I push the plunger, I'll get some reading like 3.19 but, then It will decrease and find 0.01.

The reason I assumed the DPDT switch was bad, was because throughout all that soldering, I noticed some of the terminals wobbling due to the plastic around them melting.

[The Rocket From The Tombs]

I have a jack that has 7 leads, it was for a practice amp I took apart. Does it matter which leads I use for the audio probe? Also, does the cap have to be an electrolytic one? The only 0.1u cap I have is a 50v ceramic one (axial).