Custom Kill Switch

Started by AudioEcstasy, September 02, 2012, 12:38:52 PM

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AudioEcstasy

Hey guys,

I want to build myself a kill switch like the On/Off one from Beavis Audio. I wanted to make a few adjustments to it, those being a switch to change the momentary switch function from NC to NO and back and forth, as well as to have dual outputs. Not stereo, just so one output can go to a tuner.

Is this plausible?

R.G.

Will you be able to get this be integrated into the run of pedals you're ordering caps for?
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

ORK

Here is a starter (kind of like the blooming of a pedal) for the basics of such an approach: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76932.0

AudioEcstasy

RG, this one is for me.

I just wanted to make a few upgrades to Beavis' idea. It's the only thing my pedalboard is missing!  8)

I was wondering if it would be possible to wire the momentary switch to a DPDT throw switch to have the option of either NC or NO. I was also wondering if splitting the output would weaken the signal at that point?


AudioEcstasy

Thank you so much artifus! That was exactly what I was looking for. As for the dual output, can I just double each wire and split it to 2 jacks?

AudioEcstasy

Hello again guys,

I finally got around to trying out this project. I'm trying to combine this idea:

http://www.nicolascollins.com/texts/superswitch.pdf

And Version 2 and 3 of the Beavis Kill (on/off switch and variable with a pot). I'm also splitting it to 2 outputs:

http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/StutterPedal/index.htm

I've got it assembled and get clean audio I/O, but none of the switches work and the effect does nothing. Included is a gut shot.



The signal comes in the jack on the reader's left to the On/Off Switch. I changed the connection to the 2 lugs on the bottom right (tested it with the meter for continuity). The switch on the reader's right is the momentary. I have a feeling the issue is somewhere in either how I'm connecting the on/off switch, or how I'm connecting the momentary.In short, the signal flow goes:

input -> on/off switch in -> on/off out -> No/Nc throw switch -> momentary -> pot lug 2 -> pot lug 3 -> out 1

The tip and sleeve of the input goes to both outputs.

All help is greatly appreciated! Thanks so much for your time.



Fender3D

Why didn't you use SPDT as trow switch?
You're just switching signal coming from on/off sw. to NO or NC...
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

AudioEcstasy

Let me clarify:

There are 3 switches.

One turns the effect on or bypasses it. There is a throw switch to toggle the third switch, the momentary, between normally open and normally closed. This is the super switch referenced to the Nicholas Collins website.

ashcat_lt

#9
But that's just absurd!  Far more complicated than necessary.  I cant really see your switch well enough to tell you what's wrong, but Fender3D has the right answer.  You can just use one half of your toggle.  Input from on/off to the common.  Each outside lug goes to one of the outside lugs of the momentary.  Common of the MO to the pot.

Edit - keep in mind, though, that this will only really kill when the pot is at 0R.  At higher resistances it acts as a parallel load.  This may change frequency response, depending on the source, but not broadband volume.  Connected directly to a passive guitar pickup it will tend to work more as a Tone than a Volume.

AudioEcstasy

#10
So connect the outside lugs of the momentary switch to either side "on" of the throw switch?

The signal goes input -> on/off switch -> common of throw switch -> common of the momentary to the pot -> outputs?

Thanks so much for the insight!

I've included a crude drawing.


artifus

Quote
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ashcat_lt

Quote from: AudioEcstasy on September 13, 2012, 06:29:11 PM
So connect the outside lugs of the momentary switch to either side "on" of the throw switch?

The signal goes input -> on/off switch -> common of throw switch -> common of the momentary to the pot -> outputs?

Thanks so much for the insight!
Yeah, that should work, with the above caveat about the action of the pot and this new one following:

The momentary switch will affect both outputs at the same time.  You mentioned using one of these as a tuner output, and seems like this is a poor way of doing it since you will not be able to mute the amp while tuning.

AudioEcstasy

I rewired it and I'm getting the same results- just signal passing through, no effect. Perhaps I need to jumper the on/off switch? The switch is numbered:

1 2
3 4
5 6

I have input going to lug 4, outputing at 6 going to the common of the toggle switch. On my switch, 1/3 and 2/4 connect, and 3/5 and 4/6 connect when the switch is pressed.


ashcat_lt

Well, I just noticed that in your recent sketch you've got the "input" to the on/off switch coming from the sleeve of the jacks.  That ain't gonna work because you've got the momentary (through the pot) connecting also to the sleeve.  Those things are already connected together!  You need to move that "input" wire to the tip.

AudioEcstasy

That was a typo on my part in my haste to draw that on-the-go.

I actually have the tip of the input going to lug 4 of the on/off, as well as splitting out to the 2 outputs as in the diagram.

ashcat_lt

When I first said that the sketch would work I was really just looking at the two switches on the right.  Then I noticed the thing with the tip/sleeve confusion.  Now I've noticed that this:
Quote from: AudioEcstasy on September 13, 2012, 11:27:11 PM
1 2
3 4
5 6

I have input going to lug 4, outputing at 6 going to the common of the toggle switch. On my switch, 1/3 and 2/4 connect, and 3/5 and 4/6 connect when the switch is pressed.
Is not the same as the sketch either.  If the on/off switch is wired like the sketch, it won't work.

Where is the pot set when you're doing these tests?  Do you have a meter?

AudioEcstasy

Also a typo. Apologies.

It's wired as I said input to 4, output 6.

I've tested with the pot in all positions. I do have a meter and continuity tests fine. It's kind of perplexing that I can get throughput but nothing else.

I wouldn't have to wire the I/O and the "circuit" aspect separately on the switch would I?

deadastronaut

#18
Quote from: artifus on September 13, 2012, 07:50:09 PM
Quote
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Custom stompboxes and cabling for stage and studio!

We build DAWs too!

@art:   :icon_twisted:
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slacker

If it's wired how you've described, not how it's drawn, then it should work. You know what it should be doing, so continuity testing between the various points in the chain will debug it in a couple of minutes.