How can I make temporary no-solder pcb connections?

[DeepBlueC]

When I want to experiment with various components on pcb's (most often caps & resistors), my only options seem to require eventual desoldering. As I go along, I am increasingly wanting to avoid desoldering whenever possible, so I want to find a better way.

If I use sockets, it seems I have to solder them to the PCB then solder the cap leads into the socket to form viable connections. I can cut IC sockets that will temporarily hold component leads to fit, but I still have to solder the socket pins in, and then I still have to desolder the socket to permanently connect the component. Has anyone found connectors that fit snugly in the through holes of a GGG/Madbean/BYOC/etc. pcb while also having spring-loaded contacts for component leads? Alternatively, is there a solder paste (or other non-permanent solder-like material) out there that is actually conductive but easily cleaned away?

Again, this is for testing and expermenting only. Durability doesn't matter, it just needs to make hands-free testing possible. Once I settle on a value, I'll solder it in. Once. Thanks!

[Kesh]

you can solder the component into the socket when you've decided on it

you could also breadboard, if you've the patience

[artifus]

most components fit sip sockets quite snugly http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/sockets/sip-sockets.html

[joegagan]

i make standoffs that i solder in very lightly so they can be removed ( small gauge solder helps too), something a small alligator clip can attach to, or i can quickly solder and unsolder the tested components higher up on the standoff. use  20 or 22 ga solid for your standoff if your pcb holes will allow.
this way, you are guaranteed only soldering on the actual pad twice.

[DeepBlueC]

Joe, that's a good idea. I wondered about that myself and it would require very little solder/desoldering. Maybe that's the way to go, let's see if anyone else has discovered a paste, spring-loaded connector, or other completely non-solder solution.

Art, I've tried that exact socket... capacitor leads fall right out. And the socket itself sits loosely in the holes if it stays there at all. Thanks though.

Kesh, since I'm experimenting on actual pcbs, breadboarding doesn't really help unless I am willing to reproduce the entire circuit on a breadboard. (I'm not.) And even if I use half of a 4-pin IC socket, the socket leads still sit (again, if at all) loosely, not making a solid connection.

Thanks guys.

[Kesh]

i don't think you understand. buy a long sip socket strip, cut it into singles, solder these into pcb. play with values, when you find one you like solder that component into the individual sip socket.

[DeepBlueC]

No, I think I know what you're saying, but I still have to solder the cap leads into the socket holes to get them to stay, which means I have to either desolder the leads or desolder the socket to try a different value. The holes in my strip and other SIPs like it seem to be the same size as the pcb holes, so they don't hold leads without solder any better than the board itself.

[artifus]

i've not actually ordered from tayda, t'was just an example - i was over charged by maplin for the ones i picked up recently and have to force components in and struggled to pull them out.
i like joe's pcb pin idea but dislike soldering and desoldering so much but at least you're not damaging pads. pins and croc clips could be the way to go.

[Kesh]

No, I think I know what you're saying, but I still have to solder the cap leads into the socket holes to get them to stay, which means I have to either desolder the leads or desolder the socket to try a different value. The holes in my strip and other SIPs like it seem to be the same size as the pcb holes, so they don't hold leads without solder any better than the board itself.

No, you place them in temporarily, NO SOLDER, while experimenting, until you decide to make it permanent, then solder.

[artifus]

kesh - he is saying that his sockets do not hold his components and require him to solder them in place for a secure electrical connection. no need to SHOUT.

[Pyr0]

I've noticed the same with some of those sip sockets, swap a couple of diodes or transistors and then they no longer hold anything securely.
Some of the leads on Ge transistors or old metal can bc109's are just too small for them and they fall out.

[DeepBlueC]

That's just it. I haven't found sockets with holes small enough to allow a secure conductive connection without soldering.

[Kesh]

never mind

[artifus]

*well, ok then*

[DeepBlueC]

Actually, Kesh, you just added a good healthy laugh to my day. Faintly, off in the distance, I heard Roseanne Roseannadanna on your last post... for those of us old enough to remember.

[DeepBlueC]

Oh wait! No, that was Emily Latella! I guess I'm old enough, but having a bit o' trouble in the memory department... 

[joegagan]

to further flesh out why i do standoffs instead of sockets. there is just more flexibility with a standoff. like someone said, the sockets only fit certain size components, they don't solder and unsolder as quickly or easily as a longer piece of wire ( let the standoff poke through a quarter inch or more ),

you could leave them in place and solder the final component into the socket, but this looks a little wierd in most builds if a customer is involved.

with standoffs, i can use clips, solder to them, any size wire or component. more flexible and quick for me.

i use sockets for transistors tho, still like them for that if there is any reason to try different trans in a build.

[Jdansti]

No one has mentioned "breadboard" yet. Maybe I missed something, but why not do all of your testing on a breadboard?

With the standoffs on the PCB, you could use your alligator clips to connect to a breadboard and do your swapping on the breadboard (but then why not do it all on a breadboard?).  I think I'm going in circles that keep leading back to the item that's designed for what you're trying to do.

[joegagan]

breadboard was mentioned.

i like to tune builds individually as a lot of my parts are old surplus etc. i know i am making it hard on myself, but i like the adventure of it.
if i breadboard the whole thing first, it makes for more work, plus there are variables that come along with having the effect in the actual enclosure that i like to minimize.

[LucifersTrip]

breadboard was mentioned.

yes, in the first reply, but Jdansti made a good suggestion using the breadboard in addition to the pcb, clipped with alligator clips

I've done that many times with a breadboard clipped to my perfs...