What's the easiest way to finish a stomp box?

[deadastronaut]

I would sand it smooth and use clear coat. Designs are your call.

me too..i always clear coat my sanded boxes....coarse, then fine..clean, clear.....i'm not a fan of paint, it looks great for a few weeks, then chips, scratches, digs etc....after all it does get stamped on...

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P240511_12_54.jpg.html

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P230211_14_09.jpg.html

[GGBB]

I would sand it smooth and use clear coat. Designs are your call.

me too..i always clear coat my sanded boxes....coarse, then fine..clean, clear.....i'm not a fan of paint, it looks great for a few weeks, then chips, scratches, digs etc....after all it does get stamped on...

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P240511_12_54.jpg.html

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P230211_14_09.jpg.html

Those look awesome.  Are the graphics etched?  Does that brushed look come from some sort of technique or is it the natural outcome of fine sanding?  How do they look after use?  I would expect that clear coat would suffer the same way paint does - chips, dings, scratches - but does it not show as much because there's no paint underneath?

[deadastronaut]

I would sand it smooth and use clear coat. Designs are your call.

me too..i always clear coat my sanded boxes....coarse, then fine..clean, clear.....i'm not a fan of paint, it looks great for a few weeks, then chips, scratches, digs etc....after all it does get stamped on...

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P240511_12_54.jpg.html

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/pedal+builds/P230211_14_09.jpg.html

Those look awesome.  Are the graphics etched?  Does that brushed look come from some sort of technique or is it the natural outcome of fine sanding?  How do they look after use?  I would expect that clear coat would suffer the same way paint does - chips, dings, scratches - but does it not show as much because there's no paint underneath?

thanks, etched, coarse sand, fine sand one direction only, with a block,  they still look as good as the day i did em...i mostly clearcoated because on comparison with ones i didn't they still retain the shine..
rather than dull over time..plus you can wipe beer off them.. . (eddystone boxes)

[Toxic Tom]

 

I would use the paint-on stuff instead. A lot less mess, safer to use and the coverage is great. Also, it's more cost-effective than spray cans. I use the British brand called Hammerite. The silver hammered finish comes up very nice. Just pre-drill all holes, then suspend the box using a wire coathanger. Apply it all in one coat, but not too thick. If you move quickly it will level out nicely, leaving no brush marks. The finish is very durable and resists chipping. If you must bake it on, do not bake it in an oven you use for cooking food!

So would you suggest to dip it in the tin of paint?

[Pyr0]

thanks, etched, coarse sand, fine sand one direction only, with a block,  they still look as good as the day i did em...i mostly clearcoated because on comparison with ones i didn't they still retain the shine..
rather than dull over time..plus you can wipe beer off them.. . (eddystone boxes)

What grades of wet&dry paper do you use, especially the final grade for the brushed effect ?

[J0K3RX]

When aluminum is exposed to oxygen an oxide forms almost immediately. Oxides form on cast iron and steel, but at a much lower rate. But, the aluminum oxide formed on the exposure to air is a corrosion resistant oxide and under normal conditions, oxidation stops or it takes place very, very slowly. The oxidation will turn the aluminum a slight grayish color. In the absence of abrasion and in normal conditions, this oxide forms a very efficient protective coat. In fact, anodizing of aluminum is merely a method of rapidly producing an aluminum oxide of greater than normal thickness and hardness, and is used where extreme protection is necessary...

So, if you are doing it just to keep it from corroding I wouldn't even bother...

Check this out! I know... you said no dangerous chemicals but I like danger!
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/showthread.php/10367-DIY-Anodizing-Success!!

[deadastronaut]

@alan:  i use 180 grade wet n dry at first to really cut in and get rid of the dull finish....then i iron + etch...

after etchng it needs sanding again, but with used 600-800 grade,(you don't want to sand out the etch)  then i use 'used' almost no grit left 600-800 for the final finish..