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GGG TB2 issue

Started by charriman, October 18, 2012, 07:54:27 PM

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charriman

Hey guys.  This is regards to the silicon tonebender i built a couple of months ago.  It worked fine until i hooked it up to my onespot adapter.  According to JD @ GGG, all of his kits are wired to use the center negative boss type adaptor.
Anyway, Now it doesn't work :icon_evil:...  It's not even passing signal when bypassed either powered by a battery or the adaptor.
Here is the schematic:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_tb_m2p_sc_ns.pdf

Here are my voltages for the trannies:
Q1
C=6.72
B=1.07
E=0.56

Q2
C=1.35
B=0.51
E=0.01

Q3
C=5.32
B=1.35
E=0.76

These are the same voltages i had when it was working.
I get continutity between the tips of the 2 jacks when in bypass, which makes no sense since no signal is being passed in bypass.
I'm going to hit the store tomorrow to get the parts to build an audio probe.

would this be the signal path i highlighted in the schematic:
?


Thanks in advance....

deadastronaut

check the footswitch/jacks area, dodgy switch, dodgy connection... ....you don't need a psu or battery to get a bypassed signal, (with true bypass 3pdt)

your guitar should go through as if there were no pedal...........

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chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

charriman

That's what i thought.  But I'm getting continuity between the tips of the input/output when the pedal's in bypass.  Even continuity between the switch lugs in bypass.  Like i said, it makes no sense.  The only difference is that i plugged it into my one spot to test it out.  It worked fine using a battery before.  I double checked the wiring of the battery and the adapter jack and everything is wired correctly there.

Kesh

You should get continuity in bypass. That's what bypass does. You probably have a short to ground somewhere that is sucking your signal. As it's doing it in bypass it's probably off board.

charriman

Well I threw an audio probe on it. Good news is the board is fine. I removed the switch and the output wire came off. It had broken. Now It seems that I've fried the switch. The other problem is that if you push the cord all the way into the output jack, there's no sound but if you pull it 1/2 way in, it passes signal.  I think I need to put in an order with mammoth or Tayda.

charriman

OK,
I really need help now.  I replaced both the output jack and the switch.  I'm still having the same issue...
Basically, if i plug any cord into the output, it acts as if all signal is being sent to ground wether the box is on or off.  If i remove the cord from the output jack and use the audio probe and clip the negative to the sleeve of the input and put the probe on the tip of the output, i get signal both ways  on and off.  So i know it wasn't a bad switch or the output jack.  I'm also thinking it's not anything to do with the input since i don't get the white noise when the effect is on.
I'm totally confused now.. What could cause this behavior?  I have to be missing something but i have no idea where to look.

HELP! :)  Please? 

charriman

This is fixed.  the output jack was grounding out to the enclosure when the cable was plugged in.  Wrapped the jack with electrical tape.

Govmnt_Lacky

Try rotating the jack so it doesnt make contact -OR- drill the output jack hole a little bigger and slightly move it to get clearance.

The tape will just look awful and can gum up the works!
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for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Eric.nail

Ahh yes the ol jack tip to ground...I once built a 7 channel True bypass looper. i had the first row of send jacks all drilled slightly too close...same problem...7 channels.....haha! i said screw it and fronted the twenty bucks for a new enclosure and started over.
I came, i saw, i taught little kids guitar for extorted prices.