share your wiring!

[tacobender]

So I know there are many ways to wire up a fuzz, say an mk2. So I encourage anyone out there in fuzz land to share your knowledge. Myself I'm looking for a neater way, more professional looking. So please share if you like:)

[chumbox]

Hi Taco

Can you post a pic of what you have been doing so we can give tips of where it might be improved?

[smallbearelec]

I'm looking for a neater way, more professional looking. So please share if you like:)

The Beginner Boost is not a Fuzz, but the ideas in this tutorial:

http://diystompboxes.com/beginnerboostbreadboardtobox/BeginnerBoost.htm

are easily applicable to a ton of two-knob builds. The components to build in the Bare Box are all available now. The smaller board for the generic version and a pre-drilled enclosure will be available in about a week. I am working on a similar tutorial for the Fuzz Face, as I saw a need for an example that is easy enough to build while teaching good construction and wiring practices.

Regards
SD

[davent]

Don't try to wire the board and pots, switches, led etc. together when you have them mounted in the enclosure. Create a wiring jig from very thin plywood or even boxboard. Drill holes to match the enclosure control layout so you mount all the pots switches to it then wire up the board. Gives you easy access for soldering and wire routing.

dave

[mth5044]

Dave, is that an actual braided bunch of wires in the first example?  That's awesome

[bloxstompboxes]

Those wiring jigs are insanely cool, Dave. I may have to start doing that myself. It would definitely help on production of pedals for sale having a few of them around, I think. Looks like plywood you're using there. There is a material, can't remember the name, not a wood. More like a fiberboard or something. used for drawer bottoms, I think. It's not MDF or MDO. I think it's brown. Crap. I'll think of it. It's good for making jigs and I seem to remember Norm Abram used it some to make jigs on the New Yankee Workshop.

[FuzzFanatic71]

Are you thinking of Masonite? And yeah those wiring jigs are a great idea. That wiring is a thing of beauty.

[bloxstompboxes]

Picture the scene from The Charlie Brown Christmas special where Lucy asks him if he has pentaphobia, the fear of everything. Chuck exclaims quite loudly "THAT'S IT!!!"

Thanks Fuzz. You saved me from waking up remembering that at 3AM.

[davent]

Thanks guys!

Leftover 1/16" plywood i bought at Lee  Valley. Masonite might be a bit thick at 1/8" (3mm).

For quick one offs a piece of cereal box or similar will more then do the job.

And yes braided 22awg Teflon, slippery like a wet oiled noodle so challenging but doable.

dave

[LightSoundGeometry]

that looks great - we went over pole and throws briefly today and the way some of you guys wire the bypass switching looks crazy !!

I am guessing davent, the pedal with the braids, your lugs 1,2,3,6 and 9 are grounds ?

I am making contact with my led on the anode (+) using lugs 4,5,6  with 1,4 and 7 turning the on effect in circuit and LED lit using lug 4; then 3,6,9 is my other latched position, bypassing the effect using 5 & 6 the anode + of the Led which simply breaks my LED path.  Looks as if you are inverse of me. benefits to this and why? thanks!

my wiring still needs some work. here is my latest wiring project:

[davent]

I'll orient the stomp switch horizontal or vertical (to accomodate layout or wire routing )so it might be appear confusing at first.

For a long time now have colour coded wire so i can follow what's going where;

Red +V
Black -V
Green- Audio grd and bottom of pot
White- input and top of pot
Orange- output and pot wiper

(Last pic partially conforms.)

Left column of switch lugs in the first pic is the grd and LED pole.

dave

[LightSoundGeometry]

I'll orient the stomp switch horizontal or vertical (to accomodate layout or wire routing )so it might be appear confusing at first.

For a long time now have colour coded wire so i can follow what's going where;

Red +V
Black -V
Green- Audio grd and bottom of pot
White- input and top of pot
Orange- output and pot wiper

(Last pic partially conforms.)

Left column of switch lugs in the first pic is the grd and LED pole.

dave

Dave, so by grounding the input path to the bypass switch will stop the clicking or popping when engaging the effect? appreciate the key, I am going to try the next one I do in this style! Thanks!

[John Lyons]

I use a template wiring harness as Dave does.

[davent]

Grounding the input in bypass, some high gain circuits may oscilate and that can bleed through and be heard when the circuit is bypassed, grounding th input is suppose to cure that, not sure how much of a factor it might play in preventing switch pop, opinions/facts anyone? Sooo, i just do it on all pedals for consistency in wiring, same way everytime, an ingrained habit.
dave

PS. And... John's my idea source on this.

[Keppy]

Hope this helps.

[tacobender]

http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/16602/ToneBenderMKIIOC75.png ....sorry I'm using my phone, and can't figure out how to post the actual building pics. What I'm trying to get away from is the (I) shaped connection from attack lug 3 to level lug 3, with the connection in between with ground then up to input and output. I know the design works, it was my first build, but it gets pretty messy. I was hoping for more professional way to make these connections. Anyway thanks everyone for your help.

[Cozybuilder]

Hope this helps.

If it was all white wires you could call it a spaghetti monster

[tacobender]

Hope this helps.

If it was all white wires you could call it a spaghetti monster

that looks like shit, LOL... I'm curious what it is tho? Also I can't tell if your just being a dick, or encouraging me not to worry about it;)

[tacobender]

http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/16602/ToneBenderMKIIOC75.png

Hi Taco

Can you post a pic of what you have been doing so we can give tips of where it might be improved?

sorry for some reason my phone won't let me upload photos, or maybe I just can't figure it out. Anyway this is the wiring I'm using. I'm trying to get away from that (I) shape from attack lug 3, to level 3, then up to the jacks with a ground in the middle. Don't get me wrong, it works its just messy. Trying to figure a way to rerout some of the mess. Thanks, mike

[Keppy]

that looks like shit, LOL... I'm curious what it is tho? Also I can't tell if your just being a dick, or encouraging me not to worry about it;)

That's the first prototype of the Phase II clone, which to be fair is a fuzz (among other things ). I was shocked that it worked, and the funny thing is the only thing that has failed on it in the four years since I built it is one of the switch poles controlling an LED. All that wiring works fine. So yeah, you can get away with a lot, at least some of the time.

As far as your own wiring, things depend on how literally you're following that diagram and where your jacks are placed. If your jacks are on the sides, then the neatest way is probably connecting the pot ground lugs to the board instead of straight to one of the jacks. That gives you the chance to hide those wires under the board and reduces the number of wires to the jacks. There are plenty of open holes on the ground row for this. I like to run one ground wire from the board to the input jack sleeve, with no other direct connections to ground. If your jacks are at the top of the box, then wiring straight from pot to jack might be neatest.

I generally use board-mounted pots and do my own layouts when I can to keep things tidy. It's not too hard, though you must drill the enclosure carefully.

The DC jack can be placed to minimize wire length. The battery snap can be left out. Or vice versa.